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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How to: Outlander Steering Wheel Swap (with operational SWC)

Have you ever wanted to change out the ugly original steering wheel in your Eclipse with one that looks better, and maybe has a bit more functionality but didn’t know where to start? Well, you’re in luck. After reading the following guide you’ll be swapping steering wheels with the best of them!

Note:
For this guide, I will be only focusing on getting the cruise control buttons working with the factory Eclipse system. The reason for this is because most people will have aftermarket stereos which can adapt/program to the audio SWC buttons as they are. If you are keeping the stock (SWC capable) radio, the same procedure will be followed but with different value resistors. I have not researched these values, as I have no stock radio to test it on. This is NOT a linear guide. Find the part specific to your needs (see below) and follow that section ONLY. Please read through all methods/options and pick whichever one you feel the most comfortable with according to your own skill level.


Decide which “option” and which “method” you would like to go with.

Method A: Using standard electronics store type resistors and wires.
Method B: Using special circuit board style resistors.

Option 1: Button backlight on with Ignition.
Option 2: Button backlight on with Park Lights.

Get all the parts and tools that you require

Parts required for both Methods:
Outlander Steering Wheel (2007-2010) with the switches that you want
Complete Airbag (preferably new for safety reasons)
New Clockspring (for same year as wheel)
Pigtail Harness(es) for the vehicle side of the clockspring
For option 1 you will need the yellow airbag plug only
For option 2 you will need the black (or white) 6 pin plug only
Note: The plugs for the Outlander are the same shape and size as the Eclipse. Only the wire colors are different and two more wires on the Outlander airbag plug. Get whichever ones you can find.
Wire absolutely no larger than 22 gauge, the thinner the better (up to five different colors)

Parts required for Method A (only):
Standard ¼ watt resistors: 220 Ohm, 690 Ohm, and 3.9kOhm (smallest tolerance you can find)

Parts required for Method B (only)
1/16 watt surface mount (SMD) resistors in package style “0603” (1206 may fit): 220 Ohm, 690 Ohm and 3.9kOhm

Parts required for Option 1 (only)
Replace 3.9kOhm resistor (above) with ????Ohm resistor

Parts required for Option 2 (only)
Small “bullet” connector (matching pair) or similar
18 gauge primary wire (approximately 36”)


Tools required:

Wire cutters
Wire Stripper
Soldering Pen with VERY small tip
Solder
Small exacto knife or razor blade
#40 drill bit, 1/8” brill bit (method A only)
Torx Screwdriver
#1 Phillips screwdriver
#2 Philips screwdriver
Electrical tape
Plug “de-pinning” tool
Very tiny needle nose pliers
A steady hand and LOTS of patience
Jeweler’s blade screwdriver (1/8”)
Ratchet with 3” extension and 17mm socket
Steering Wheel Puller (2 bolt) and appropriate wrench



The Theory behind Option 1 and 2 Explained

Please take note of the differences and similarities between the Outlander clips (in hand) versus the Eclipse ones.

Black 6 pin clip:
different color (outlander is white), same shape and size, same number of wires but with different color codes. All wires but one serves the same function (used to our advantage with option 1).



Yellow airbag clip:
Both yellow, both same shape, Outlander has two more wires than ours (used to our advantage with option 2).





The Switch (both options, both methods):

Get your new steering wheel.


The cruise control buttons are on the right hand side of the wheel.
On the back of the wheel is a small Phillips screw. Remove this screw and gently pull the entire switch assembly off.
Once off, flip the switch over and remove the screws from the back of the casing. Lift off the back, and remove the PCB



As you may be able to tell from the photo, the wiring between the Outlander and the Eclipse are quite different. The Outlander is a two wire system; the Eclipse is a three wire system. This is the reason that we need to do some modification to the switch itself, and also why there are two options that we need to look at.



The first thing we need to do with the PCB is to remove the three resistors from the board. Using your small soldering pen and tiny pliers, gently heat the end of each resistor in turn while applying a GENTLE force up. Heat the part only just enough for it to let go. You don’t want to burn the board or pull the trace off. After the resistors are removed, it is recommended that you re-tin the solder pads.

The resistors


The board with resistors removed and the solder pads re-tinned
Take note of the larger test contact pads T2, T3, and T4. These will be used for Method A.



Now take a small piece of wire and solder a jumper in where R11 used to be. Be careful not to create a solder bridge.


Using a small razor blade or similar, cut the trace connecting “main” to “set/cst”. I used a number 40 drill bit to make a hole right above the existing locator hole (to allow for “option 2”). Make sure that the two points are completely severed. Then clean and tin a portion of the trace towards the “main” pad.




From this point forward, the steps will differ depending on which option/method you have chosen.



Method A (standard resistors), Option 1 (illumination on ignition)

Using the small square hole beside T3, drill a #40 hole and a 1/8” hole above T2. Be careful not to damage the switch pad. Clean and tin points T2, T3, and T4. Once the hole is made and there is a small amount of solder on each of the three test pads, get three lengths of fine wire approximately 8” long. Solder one piece of wire to each point, then gently route the wire through the hole.


Get your resistors and solder them to the wires accordingly:
220 Ohm- T2
690 Ohm- T3

T2--------------------220----\
T3--------690----------------/
T4----------------/

The wire on T2 has the 220 Ohm resistor on it. The wire from T4 goes straight to the end of the wire for T2 (after the resistor). The 690 Ohm resistor goes on the T3 wire and then intersects with the T3 wire before it joins T2.

I had to daisy chain some resistors to get the values that I needed as I used what I already had on hand.

Now solder a length of wire to the end of the cut trace going to the main contact pad and another one to the “Ill+” pin Route them through the hole drilled earlier. Make another hole near the “ill” pin if you find it easier for routing. Connect these two wires to each other using the 3.9kOhm resistor. Be sure not to cover the contact pad or the LED with your wire.


Done.

Proceed to “Switch Assembly”



Method A (standard resistors), Option 2 (illumination with park lights)

Using the small square hole beside T3, drill a #40 hole and a 1/8” hole above T2 . Be careful not to damage the switch pad. Clean and tin points T2, T3, and T4. Once the hole is made and there is a small amount of solder on each of the three test pads, get three lengths of fine wire approximately 8” long. Solder one piece of wire to each point, and then gently route the wire through the hole.


Get your resistors and solder them to the wires accordingly:
220 Ohm- T2
690 Ohm- T3

T2--------------------220----\
T3--------690----------------/
T4----------------/

The wire on T2 has the 220 Ohm resistor on it. The wire from T4 goes straight to the end of the wire for T2 (after the resistor). The 690 Ohm resistor goes on the T3 wire and then intersects with the T3 wire before it joins T2.

I had to daisy chain some resistors to get the values that I needed as I used what I already had on hand.

Instead of jumping the main to “Ill +” with a 3.9kOhm resistor as above for Option 1, solder a length of wire to the cut end of the trace and route the wire through the whole drilled earlier. Attach the 3.9kOhm to this wire and then add another length to the end of that. Terminate this wire with a small male bullet connector or similar


Done.

Proceed to “Switch Assembly”



Method B (surface mount PCB resistors), Option 1 (illumination with ignition)
Coming Soon.


Method B (surface mount PCB resistors), Option 2 (illumination with park lights)
Coming Soon




Switch Assembly (Method 1 and/or Option 2)

Take the back plate from the switch and cut off a small section of the corner (upper inboard corner when installed )


Take the switch Housing and remove a section of the matching corner


With the two pieces together, it should look something like this:


Take the wire that you ran through the PCB and lay them as flat as possible on the back of the board going towards the corner that corresponds to the opening you made in the switch housing.. Affix them with a small piece of tape so that they do not move. Reinstall the PCB in the housing and attach the back plate using the original screws. At this point put the switch back on the steering wheel, gently routing your wires towards the bottom center section. Keep clear of the airbag screw.


Now to move on to the installation.



Installation (both options)

It is strongly recommended that you disconnect your battery and wait a minimum of one minute before proceeding with the following steps. You are working around the SRS system. The utmost care MUST be taken for your own safety.

Remove the five Phillips screws on the underside of the steering column cover (don’t miss the one right above the key cylinder) and remove the covers


Unclip the three wire plugs. Two at the base of the clockspring, and one under the small plastic cover on the bottom of the steering wheel itself.




On each side of your steering wheel behind the spokes, is a torx screw. Undo this screw on both sides. These screws DO NOT come out all the way; they are retained by the steering wheel cover.


Gently pull the airbag towards you. Be careful as there are still wires attached. Disconnect the Green/Red bullet connector (horn) and then carefully unclip the yellow sleeved wire from the back of the airbag squib




Make sure that your front wheels are straight before proceeding.

Remove the 17mm nut on the center shaft




Use the puller to remove the wheel from the spline. This will expose the clockspring. Remove two screws and pull it off.




Optional:
Tape the front of the clockspring to the back so that it doesn’t spin. This way it won’t get damaged in case you would like to revert back or sell it to someone else.


Option 1 (illumination with ignition)

Leave the black clip exactly as it is.
Take both of the yellow airbag connectors and using the jewelers’ screwdriver lift up on the white insert to remove the pin lock.






Once the lock is removed, use your de-pinning tool to remove the yellow/blue and yellow/brown wires from the spare connector. Transfer these two wires over to the corresponding locations on the vehicle connector.






Splice the wires together. Y to Y/Br and Y/B to Y/Gn. (pin 1- 3, and 2-4). Reinstall lock insert.


This will ensure that both squibs on the Outlander airbag will be connected even though the Eclipse originally only was wired for one squib.

Proceed to “Final Assembly”



Option 2 (illumination with park lights)

Using the Jewelers’ screwdriver lift up on the white insert of the both the original and your spare 6 pin connectors, as well as on the original yellow airbag connector. Remove the pin lock from the connectors.






With the de-pinning tool remove the black/blue wire from the original connector.


Insert the wire into the far open position of the yellow connector on the vehicle, and then reinstall the white lock clip.


Remove the Green/White wire from your spare harness and insert it into the now empty location on the black connector. Reinstall lock insert


Remove the Gauge bezel to expose the wire harness for the dimmer switch. Pull back the foam around the wires and strip back a small section on the Green/White wire. Solder a length of wire to it, and route it through the dash and up the steering column, securing it along the way. Then connect this wire to the Green/White pigtail that you just installed








Reinstall cover, remembering to plug the dimmer back in.

Now here’s the kicker for this option;

The Outlander has two airbag squibs; our Eclipse’s only have one. We just piggybacked two of the Outlander airbag wires (pin 3 and 4 are joined inside the clockspring). In order for us to ensure that both squibs are still connected to the vehicle safely, a bit of surgery must be done to the airbag wiring itself. This step is CRITICAL to get correct. If this is done wrong, accidental air bag deployment or failure may result. This is NOT for the faint of heart.


Take your shiny new airbag, and split open the yellow sheathing. Be careful not to nick the wires. Cut both of the red wires, being sure to leave enough on each end. Looking at the yellow clips, connect each red wire to the same side (relative) yellow wire. Also, get a small piece of wire (I took a chunk off the spare 6 pin harness) and solder it to the red wire on the fourth pin. Terminate with the mating end connector to the one you used on the switch wiring section. Seal the extra red wire off. Tidy up the harness and reinstall the yellow sheath.




Once you have ensured that all your wiring is done correctly, tidy and bundle all harnesses that you have disturbed.

Proceed to “Final Assembly”



Final Assembly

Now that the hard stuff is done, it’s time to put it all back together.

Install your replacement clockspring by lining up the tabs and pressing it back in to location. DO NOT FORCE IT. The locator pins will guide you. Plug the two harnesses from the steering column in to the back side. If you got a new part, now is the time to remove the lock pin (you may use this to lock your old one for storage if you wish).


Place steering wheel on spline in the centered position. The “box” on the bottom of the clockspring should be close to centered in the opening. Reinstall retaining nut. You don’t have to white knuckle the thing; just enough torque to hold it in place is good.


Place airbag into position, and tighten down the torx screws on the sides, then reattach the remaining connectors through the access panel on the underside of the wheel. Tuck them away, nice and tidy, and you’re good to go.






TA DA! :ndance:

Please notify me if there are any errors or omissions.

Note: Revisions/additions will be coming once I can source out one missing part.

Thank you for reading. :)
 

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"S" Car...Gooooooo
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
It has been recently brought to my attention that that someone down under has taken the information that I have provided within this post and has been claiming it as their own. While I did the required research, I did provide this as a free source. This was done for the betterment and enrichment of our community. It saddens me that a person is so bold as to not only claim someone else's work as their own, but to do so while not truly understanding the theory behind it (not being able to answer questions) and then having the gall to make other people sign an NDA before giving it to them in turn.

If anyone wants to share any of this with others; they are quite welcome to. It pleases me to know that it may help others. Just please give credit where credit is due. That is all I ask.

All this said, it has afforded me the opportunity to revisit this project for another member even though I no longer have the 3G. What I am going to do is to revamp the write-up to try to make it a little more concise and attempt to have the instructional photos re-hosted for all to see again.

Stay tuned :)
 

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"S" Car...Gooooooo
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
How to:
2008 Outlander Steering Wheel Swap to your 2003-2005 Eclipse v2.0
(supersedes original post)
(may work for 2000-02 -> not tested)

This modification will allow you to use the steering wheel from an Outlander in your Eclipse while maintaining the functionality of the cruise control switches and their illumination capability.

It does not address the Audio control switches. Most people have put aftermarket headunits in their cars by now and any aftermarket SWI can be programmed to match the Outlander outputs to perform those functions (including hands free). The theory would be the same for audio, however I have not tested for those circuits/values as I no longer have the 3G to test upon.

Parts required:
Outlander Steering Wheel (2007-2010) with the switches that you want
Complete Airbag (preferably new for safety reasons)
New Clockspring (for same year as wheel)
Harness pigtails from donor vehicle for both 6 pin and airbag connector (vehicle side)
1/16 watt surface mount (SMD) resistors in package style “0603” (1206 may fit): 220 Ohm, 690 Ohm and 3.9 kOhm or "standard" 1/8 watt inline resistors: 220 ohm, 690 ohm (or 910 ohm), and 3.9 kohm

Tools required:
Wire cutters
Wire Stripper
Soldering Pen with VERY small tip
Electrical Solder
Small exacto knife or razor blade
#40 drill bit, 1/8” brill bit
Torx Screwdriver
#1 Phillips screwdriver
#2 Philips screwdriver
Electrical tape
Plug “de-pinning” tool
Very tiny needle nose pliers
Jeweler’s blade screwdriver (1/8”)
Ratchet with 3” extension and 17mm socket
Steering Wheel Puller (2 bolt) and appropriate wrench



The Theory:

The Eclipse uses three wires to allow the cruise control switch to function. They are +12V IGN, SW- and ECU. The Outlander however uses only two: SW- and ECU, but has button illumination instead.








Quick notes:


In addition to this, the Eclipse has a single stage (1 squib) airbag, whereas the Outlander has a dual stage (2 squib) system. Due to these differences, while there are enough wires overall, we have to do some creative wire work to get everything working in an appropriate manner and maintain safety as well.

Please make note of the differences and similarities between the Outlander clips (in hand) versus the Eclipse ones.

Black 6 pin clip:
different color (Outlander is white), same shape and size, same number of wires but with different color codes. All wires but one serves the same purpose. The Black/Blue is ignition on the Eclipse which must be relocated and the Green/White from the Outlander must be added.


Yellow airbag clip:
Both yellow, both same shape, Outlander has two more wires than ours due to being a dual stage airbag versus the Eclipse only being a single stage.
Note: When disconnected, this plug shorts out each pair of wires on both sides ie: 1-2 and 3-4 this is for safety purpose to help avoid accidental deployment of the airbag due to static charge.



Modifying the Cruise Control Switch:
Get your new steering wheel. The cruise control buttons are on the right hand side of the wheel.

On the back of the wheel is a small Phillips screw. Remove this screw and gently pull the entire switch assembly off unplugging the small wire clip. Once off, flip the switch over and remove the screws from the back of the casing. Lift off the back, and remove the PCB. Set it out on your work area to start the modifications.




Using as little heat and pressure as possible, remove the three resistors from the board. They are labeled R11, R12 and R13. Carefully re-tin the contact points.


Now take a small piece of wire and solder a jumper in where R11 used to be. Be careful not to create a solder bridge to either of the other two contacts.


Using a small razor blade or a small drill bit, cut the trace connecting “main” to “set/cst”. I used a number 40 drill bit. Make sure that the two points are completely severed and a hole is nearby to route a piece of wire. Then clean off and tin a portion of the trace on the side going towards "MAIN". We will be placing a resistor at this new gap and running a new wire from it to an +12V IGN source.




*Note: If using standard resistors, you will need need to make some more small holes in the board to route the wires outside the switch safely. Use the lightest gauge wire possible and keep away from the switch areas, then route out through the connector opening in the case or cut a small piece off the corner of the switch backing plate as desired.

Standard resistor method:
Using the small square holes beside T3 and T4, drill a #40 hole and a 1/8” hole above T2 . Be careful not to damage the switch pad. Clean and tin points T2 (common wire), T3 (set/cruise), T4 (res/acc) and the "switch side" of the cut made earlier (main) . Once the hole is made and there is a small amount of solder on each of the three test pads, get four lengths of fine wire approximately 8” long. Solder one piece of wire to each point, and then gently route the wire through each hole. These wires will be tucked inside the case of the steering wheel out of the way so ensure they are long enough to do so safely and with minimal stress on your solder joints.


Attach your resistors to the wires as follows:

T3_____220_______
\______T2
T4_____910________/

MAIN___3.9k______IGN

or

T3______________220_______
/ \__________T2
T4____610___/

MAIN__3.9k____IGN

For this illustration, I daisy chained some resistors together using what was on hand to get the required.






Take the wire that you ran through the PCB and lay them as flat as possible on the back of the board going towards the corner that corresponds to the opening you made in the switch housing or the connector opening as chosen. Affix them with a small piece of tape so that they do not move, possibly breaking your solder points.

Attach an insulated bullet or stab connector to the end of the wire going to the "MAIN" (3.9k resistor).


(cont)
 

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"S" Car...Gooooooo
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
SMD resistor method:
When using SMD resistors you will use the existing resistor connections with the exception of for "MAIN", which runs on a separate circuit.

Solder them in in as follows:
R11 - solid wire
R12 - 220 ohm
R13 - 690 ohm
R(new) - 3.9 kohm




Attach an insulated bullet or stab connector to the end of the wire going to the "MAIN" (3.9k resistor).

Reinstall the PCB in the housing after routing wires carefully outside the casing.try to minimize pressure on the PCB especially near the switch pads.

Attach the back plate using the original screws.

At this point put the switch back on the steering wheel, gently routing your wires towards the bottom center section. Keep clear of the airbag screw.


Your end result should be tidy and all wires insulated from each other. You should now be able to plug the switch back in to the plug on the steering wheel and have one (extra) single wire with your own connector on it left over.

Original Steering Wheel Removal:
It is strongly recommended that you disconnect your battery and wait a minimum of twenty minutes before proceeding with the following steps. You are working around the SRS system. The utmost care MUST be taken for your own safety. Do so at your own risk.

Remove the five Phillips screws on the underside of the steering column cover (don’t miss the one right above the key cylinder) and remove the covers.


Unclip the three wire plugs. Two at the base of the clockspring, and one under the small plastic cover on the bottom of the steering wheel itself.




On each side of your steering wheel behind the spokes, is a torx screw. Undo this screw on both sides. These screws DO NOT come out all the way; they are retained by the steering wheel cover.


Gently pull the airbag towards you. Be careful as there are still wires attached. Disconnect the Green/Red bullet connector (horn) and then carefully unclip the yellow sleeved wire from the back of the airbag squib by gently opening the two spring clips on the sides.


Note: Make sure that your front wheels are straight before proceeding and ensure they remain so for the remainder of this procedure.

Remove the 17mm nut on the center shaft




Use the puller to remove the wheel from the spline. This will expose the clockspring. Remove two screws and pull it off.


Tape the front of the clockspring to the back so that it doesn’t spin. This rotational position is critical to its functionality. This way it won’t get damaged in case you would like to revert back or sell it to someone else. Remove the two phillips screws and gently remove the clockspring by pulling straight towards you. They are plastic spring tabs on either side holding it in place.


Vehicle Harness Modification:
Using the Jewelers’ screwdriver lift up on the white insert of the both the original and your spare 6 pin connectors, as well as on the original yellow airbag connector. Remove the pin lock from the connectors.




With the de-pinning tool remove the black/blue wire from the original connector.


Insert the wire into the far open position of the yellow connector on the vehicle, and then reinstall the white lock clip on airbag connector. Ensure wire connection is secure by gently tugging on wire.


Remove the Green/White wire from your spare harness pigtail and insert it into the now empty location that the black/blue wire was removed from on the black connector on the vehicle. Reinstall lock insert and ensure wire is properly secured.


(cont)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Remove the Gauge bezel to expose the wire harness for the dimmer switch. Pull back the foam around the wires and strip back a small section on the Green/White wire. Solder a length of wire to it, and route it through the dash and up the steering column, securing it along the way. Then connect this wire to the Green/White pigtail end that you just installed in the black 6 pin plug.








Reinstall instrument bezel cover, remembering to plug the dimmer switch plug back in.

Remember how the Outlander had two squibs, but the Eclipse only had one?
We just used (both) of the extra airbag wires in the clockspring to give us the extra wire we need to get ignition back in to the steering wheel (because we replaced it with dash lights)...


The connector for the airbag squib(s) on the Outlander is not interchangeable with that on the Eclipse.
In order for us to ensure that the airbag is still connected to the vehicle safely, a bit of surgery must be done to the airbag wiring itself. We have to move the Eclipse airbag inflator and clip to the Outlander clockspring and airbag unit. This step is CRITICAL to get correct. If this is done wrong; accidental air bag deployment or failure may result. This is NOT for the faint of heart.

Note: Keep clockspring(s) from rotating at any point.

Take your original (Eclipse) clockspring. Remove the the clip end by cutting the wires. Be sure to leave enough wire to work with.

Take the Outlander clockspring. Remove both (yellow) airbag clips, leaving enough wire on the clockspring side to work with.

Splice the (Eclipse) clip wire Yellow/Red (pin 1) to (Outlander) clockspring wire Yellow/Black (pin 1)
Splice the (Eclipse) clip wire Yellow/Blue (pin 2) to (Outlander) clockspring wire Yellow/Green (pin 2)
Remove (Outlander) Yellow/Blue (pin 3)
Add insulated bullet or stab connector to end of (Outlander) Yellow/Red (pin 4)

Please ignore the joined airbag wires and yellow clips in this photo. This is no longer my recommended method. The connector on wire #4 is what we are after here. The other two yellow wires will be joined to the appropriate wire ends on the Eclipse (white) airbag connector. The (inside) red wire is to be removed, and the other (outside) red wire will have a single connector added on to the end as shown below. When done you should have the two yellow wires connected to the white airbag clip, one empty pin, and one red wire with and connector added to its end.


Place both airbag units side by side and remove the four nuts securing each squib in place. Carefully remove each squib and swap then over. You should now have your original Eclipse inflator in the new Outlander airbag unit. Secure the nuts, but do not over tighten.











Note: I strongly suggest testing all clockspring wires modified using an Ohm meter and micro probes on the back side of each appropriate connector before proceeding. Remember that all power is still removed from the vehicle at this point.

Install (modified Outlander) clockspring on steering column by aligning clips (do not force it) then install two screws removed earlier. Plug in all connectors between clockspring and vehicle.

Ensure the following connections:

Steering wheel side: Vehicle Side:
Yellow/Red (1) Yellow (4) - Airbag
Yellow/Blue (2) Yellow/Black (3) - Airbag
Red (4) Black/Blue (1 in airbag plug) - IGN
Green/Red (1) Green/White (6) - Illumination
Green (2) Red (5) - Cruise ECU
Blue (3) Black (4) - Cruise GND

Once confirmed you may proceed with:

Final Assembly:
Place steering wheel on spline in the centered position. The “box” on the bottom of the clockspring should be close to centered in the opening. Reinstall retaining nut. You don’t have to white knuckle the thing; just enough torque to hold it in place is good.


Hold new airbag near steering wheel and just off to the side. Ensure that the yellow connector is securely snapped together (it should lock in place). Clip in black 6 pin connecter, horn wire and the "extra" new IGN wire that you added.

Carefully place all wires towards the opening on the steering wheel cover, out of the way, and place airbag unit into wheel.


Tighten down the torx screws on the sides, then reattach any remaining connectors through the access panel on the underside of the wheel. Tuck them away, nice and tidy in the space provided and reinstall small access cover.



Note: Exercise extreme caution for the next section as accidental airbag deployment is possible.

Reconnect battery. (this is the first point where it can all go wrong if you made a mistake)

Test all systems and if satisfactory reinstall steering column cover and enjoy (this is the second point it can go wrong as you push buttons if you got some wires mixed up)



Appendix:
If someone were so inclined as to do this same modification for a 2008 Eclipse, it can be done as well and is much more simple.





You may use your original clockspring and no changes to airbag wiring is required. Only resistor values in the switch need be changed, and 1 wire added to the vehicle harness plug.

R11 = 100 ohm
R12 = 200 ohm
R13 = 487 ohm

Then add an illumination wire to the empty (pin 1) on the vehicle side 6 pin plug. I tapped this from the fog light switch.

Obligatory Eye candy:





Hope you enjoyed the How to: v 2.0 😁
 
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