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I give up (evo ecu codes)

2284 Views 42 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  benpgreen
I've been trying for the past 2 or 3 hours to get the damn SES light off of my fcuking dash, and nothing worked.

I have 2x 33 ohm 55 watt resistors, wired them up to the EVO ECU to touch PINS 3 and 11 (Wastegate and Fuel Pressure Solenoid), and attached a 12V source to the wires on the other end.

Reset the codes, started the car, no code. Turned off the car, started it again, and lo and behold, that fcuking light came back on. Same 2 codes.

I have no idea what I'm doing wrong. I've read the posts and I'm 99.99% sure I'm doing this the right way.

I've had to go to NJ inspection since March but since I got hired full time at my job I haven't had the time to look at it until now.

My car just doesn't love me anymore.. :mecry:
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is the car running okay with the SES codes on there? i heard from a couple people that did the evo ecu swap that it's gonna run fine but when you come down to inspections, the 2 SES codes are almost (if not totally) impossible to get rid of!! can't you run the car on the stock ecu for the inspection?
I thought that the other end of the resistors had to be grounded?????


If you can't get rid of them by the resistor method, why not purchase and add the sensors themselves??
I thought that the other end of the resistors had to be grounded?????


If you can't get rid of them by the resistor method, why not purchase and add the sensors themselves??
yup your right they are supposed to be grounded
If you can't get rid of them by the resistor method, why not purchase and add the sensors themselves??
+1 That's what I'm doing... more sensors can't hurt.
hmm interesting.. so you guys are positive they have to be grounded? From the 12v source I grounded them @ the ECU.. is that what you guys mean? Or from the ECU pins, connect it to a resistor, and then ground it.. with no 12v power?

Because at first I tried to ground them, but for some reason it didn't work.

Yeah my car runs fine with those codes in there, its just that for inspection I can't have any codes.

I think I might have to actually buy the sensors... one of the members on here got it to work that way so might as well do it that way. Anyone have any idea how much they would cost?

I was going to use my stock ECU to pass inspections, but when I load up my stock ROM, all the numbers (RPM, Load columns, etc.) are all out of wack. I don't want to flash something that doesn't appear right in the ROM onto my car.
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from what i have heard is you have to connect the resistor from the ecu pin and then grounded it
I have an evo ecu and its all wired up with the original 3 sensors(fuel level,presure, boost solinoid) AND I PASSED INSPECTION IN NYC LAST WEEK WOOOOOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOOO!

So lesson to be learned here is: Spend the few $$ and watch the codes vanish
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congrats goosey!

I just have a question.. how did you go about connecting the pins?

I bought the crimp connector contacts from NEWARK.com, but for some reason, I don't think they are touching the PIN on the ECU correctly, and also, one is a bigger size (the number 3 pin). With the number 11 pin, using the crimp connector works, but the pin won't go all the way inside the connector (green plastic piece)

I've never done anything like this before.. does anyone know if I'm doing this right? I'll try to take pics later on and post them to show you guys what I mean if you don't understand what I'm trying to say.. lol.
congrats goosey!

I just have a question.. how did you go about connecting the pins?

I bought the crimp connector contacts from NEWARK.com, but for some reason, I don't think they are touching the PIN on the ECU correctly, and also, one is a bigger size (the number 3 pin). With the number 11 pin, using the crimp connector works, but the pin won't go all the way inside the connector (green plastic piece)

I've never done anything like this before.. does anyone know if I'm doing this right? I'll try to take pics later on and post them to show you guys what I mean if you don't understand what I'm trying to say.. lol.
I'm pretty sure (but not posative) that you have to ground the other side of the resistor as the ECU is what provides power to these components.

Please post pics when you get it all figured out. I bought pins and cannot get it to go into the harness far enough.
Steadly, I bought the pins as well and it still isn't going into the wire harness the way its supposed to. What a pain in the ass.. something so simple and yet it won't go in all the way.

I'm guessing thats why I'm still getting the CEL, cuz that damn crimp socket contact won't touch the PIN. ARRRRRG I've already gone through 6 or 7 of the crimp socket contacts, at this rate I'm going to have to buy more! and just for 2 pins!
Those pins look a hell of a lot like the ones I got.
Yeah I bought those pins from Newark dot com.

I've been trying to put that into the 3rd hole on the left (PIN 11)when looking at the picture of the wire harness (green clip), but it won't go down far enough. Am I missing something?

Also, the 2nd picture of the resistor, is that how its supposed to go? Ground.. Resistor...then crimp socket contact to the ECU PIN?

That crimp socket contact shown doesn't connect to PIN 3 though because its too small.

Goosey, is this how you connected your sensors?
so after another 2 hours of trying to get rid of this SES light, I managed to push the crimp socket contact all the way down. I was sure that it was touching the PIN, so I go to start my car after clearing the codes, and they still showed up.

So if anyone has done this before WITH RESISTORS, not the actual boost solenoid/fuel sensor, then PLEASE tell me how you did it and with what type of resistors. Otherwise, from my experience, it doesn't work using 33 ohm 50W resistors.

To pass inspections I'm just going to throw on my old ecu and modify my stock rom to handle the injectors, drive it to inspection, get that done, and change everything back.
resistors

ur gonna ground the solenoids.. u put the resistor then ground it and reset the codes.. from what i gather from manuals 26 to 36 ohms
Also, you're going to have to drive at highway speeds for like two cycles or something, around 8 minutes... if I'm not mistaken, to get the ECU to do the proper diagnostics to pass emission testing.
just as im about to swap ECU's i find this, more problems , GREAT!


i will read later
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