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Land Shark!
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787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I feel as if i'm in the final stretch of my turbo project as far as acquiring all the parts necessary for the kit.

Here is what I have so far.
t3/t04e turbo .63 A/R
walbro 255 fuel pump
GReddy E-manage
TiAL 38mm wastegate
GReddy type-s bov
30x7x3 FMIC
Spec Stage 3 clutch
Fidanza lightweight flywheel
Deyeme Racing Front and Rear solid motormounts
GReddy black 60mm fuel pressure, EGT, and Boost gauges
E-manage injector and ignition harnesses

Here is what I know I still need to buy.
RC engineering 400 or 440cc injectors (haven't decided which size yet, any suggestions?) Also can someone explain to me about the injector clips? I've read about these but I don't quite fully understand. Do I need new ones to accomodate the new injectors or what?
GReddy Evo2 3" catback for the GST
copper spark plugs (any recommendation on brand, and gap?)
GReddy turbo timer
Oil lines and fittings
Quaife LSD

Wow. Now that I've actually listed all the stuff I still need it doesn't look like I'm in the home stretch anymore. lol.

Are there any other parts I seem to be missing? I also wanted to know your opinions on going with a full 3" turbo back exhaust. I'm having a shop make all the pipes for me anyway so I got to thinking if I should have them make me a 3" downpipe, welding in a 3" High flow cat, and then out through the 3" catback. Do you think that this is over kill for my setup? I'm looking to hit around 320-350 whp.

Any opinions are appreciated.

Thanks,
Matt
 

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Land Shark!
Joined
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787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
can anyone give me a little help? And do I need a fuel pressure regulator even with the emanage? Thanks.
 

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Evo IX
Joined
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1,767 Posts
evil6remlin said:
I feel as if i'm in the final stretch of my turbo project as far as acquiring all the parts necessary for the kit.

Here is what I have so far.
t3/t04e turbo .63 A/R
walbro 255 fuel pump
GReddy E-manage
TiAL 38mm wastegate
GReddy type-s bov
30x7x3 FMIC
Spec Stage 3 clutch
Fidanza lightweight flywheel
Deyeme Racing Front and Rear solid motormounts
GReddy black 60mm fuel pressure, EGT, and Boost gauges
E-manage injector and ignition harnesses

Here is what I know I still need to buy.
RC engineering 400 or 440cc injectors (haven't decided which size yet, any suggestions?) Also can someone explain to me about the injector clips? I've read about these but I don't quite fully understand. Do I need new ones to accomodate the new injectors or what?
GReddy Evo2 3" catback for the GST
copper spark plugs (any recommendation on brand, and gap?)
GReddy turbo timer
Oil lines and fittings
Quaife LSD

Wow. Now that I've actually listed all the stuff I still need it doesn't look like I'm in the home stretch anymore. lol.

Are there any other parts I seem to be missing? I also wanted to know your opinions on going with a full 3" turbo back exhaust. I'm having a shop make all the pipes for me anyway so I got to thinking if I should have them make me a 3" downpipe, welding in a 3" High flow cat, and then out through the 3" catback. Do you think that this is over kill for my setup? I'm looking to hit around 320-350 whp.

Any opinions are appreciated.

Thanks,
Matt
Dont expect to dyno any higher then about 320. Highest dyno pull ive seen on stock internals that hasng broken anythign internally was 320whp.
 

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Never Too Much HP
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903 Posts
about your exhaust, go pick up a copy of Popular Hot Rodding. there is a outstanding atical in there all about exhaust and the math behind a exhaust to make it perfect and not loose any HP. might be worth the four bucks! also yes you will need a FPR. about plugs. i would run irudium. they are expensive but WELL worth it. i have had great luck with NGK. they have a really low failure rate. run a step cooler then factory. the gap depends on how much boost you run. the more boost the harder it will be for the stock coil to jump the gap. i would run no less then about .035 - .040 if you have a day at the dyno adjust the gap bigger until you start loosing HP. the loss of HP will be because of a plug not firing the cylinder as well as it can. also i would run a nice set 8mm or so plug wires, to make sure you dont have any cross fire problem.

also have your exhaust shop flange in the cat. this way you can tell them to make you a "test pipe". you drive the car home, swap in the test pipe, run that for the two years, swap in the cat, get new tags and put the test pipe in. i burned up over 800 bucks worth of cats before i learned this lesson!
 

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Kampfbereit
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17,854 Posts
Hey, if you vent with an external wastegate 3" CB may be too much despite the fact that I have the 3" Greddy Evo CB from a GST.

Buy Zex spark plugs.

You can buy a Greddy Turbo Timer anywhere.

You can buy the oil lines & fittings by going to http://www.cheapturbolines.com and asking them for a 6G72 turbo kit. Although I recommend at least a 3 foot oil return hose as they only package a 1 foot oil return hose with their 6G72 kit.
 

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Land Shark!
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787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks a lot guys. Tearstone: I was planning to have the wastegate plumbed back into the downpipe. Would the 3" be too much then? If so I'll just stick with the evo 2 I have now and see what happens. I was planning to run 10 psi. but I've been thinking that may be pushing it too close to the edge, what do you guys think? I'm gonna order an 8.5 psi spring to be on the safe side. Thanks again for your help
 

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Never Too Much HP
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903 Posts
with cast pistons i would say no more then 10. run 8.5 on the street and 11 or so at the track. its up to you. do you wanna push the limits, or be safe. you know what your bank account looks like!!
 

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Land Shark!
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787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I don't think I would dare run 11 psi on stock internals. Maybe what I'll do is get the 8.5 psi spring put in and then get an electronic boost controller to up the boost to 10 psi whenever I want to have a little more fun. I want to be fairly safe but if I end up breaking a piston that would just motivate me to beef up my internals faster which is what I plan to do anyway.
 

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Never Too Much HP
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903 Posts
ya but it will distory eveything when something does go wrong... also in the rule of thumb on boost thred, we are talken about ring end gap. with this engine it IS important. might be worth a read...
 

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Land Shark!
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787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah I read about the ring gap in the write up by rezlo (which is a great read by the way). I wonder how much it would cost to have the rings re-gapped because from what I understand with the right gap you can run pretty good boost levels safely. I would imagine re-gapping would be fairly expensive labor wise since they would likely have to take out the engine to get at the rear bank pistons.
 

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Never Too Much HP
Joined
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903 Posts
where do u live?? i can walk you through it. you CAN do it with the motor in the car, just would kinda be a pain. if i were you i would do it myself. if you live in the Portland Seattle area i can even help you out. in very condenced form you pull the intake, heads and oil pan. unbolt the rods (mark them so they go back on exactly as they came off), pop out the pistons, walk the rings off, file them, and install everthing. you will have to buy new rod bolts because i BELIEVE they are toqure to yeild which means they are a one time deal. i recomend APR. pulling a motor apart and cleaning it and starting over with new bearings, and rings and gaskets really isant expensive but just a extra safty measure. I also have a GT motor that i pulled out of my RT i could sell you with the tranny. you could learn on that motor and take it apart and make it right for this setup and then you wont have any downtime. just antoher thought.
 

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Evo IX
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1,767 Posts
evil6remlin said:
Thanks a lot guys. Tearstone: I was planning to have the wastegate plumbed back into the downpipe. Would the 3" be too much then? If so I'll just stick with the evo 2 I have now and see what happens. I was planning to run 10 psi. but I've been thinking that may be pushing it too close to the edge, what do you guys think? I'm gonna order an 8.5 psi spring to be on the safe side. Thanks again for your help
10 psi will be safe enough with proper tuning.
 

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Never Too Much HP
Joined
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903 Posts
according to Relzo he says the ring gap should be opened up even with light boost. so i guess this is where the gray area starts... what does "safe enough" mean?? just make sure you have a good tune... and every once in a while i would run a compression check or leak check on the number 4 just to make sure you arnt starting to scuff a wall. but if you do a good tune i think you should be ok also
 

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Kampfbereit
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17,854 Posts
evil6remlin said:
Thanks a lot guys. Tearstone: I was planning to have the wastegate plumbed back into the downpipe. Would the 3" be too much then? If so I'll just stick with the evo 2 I have now and see what happens. I was planning to run 10 psi. but I've been thinking that may be pushing it too close to the edge, what do you guys think? I'm gonna order an 8.5 psi spring to be on the safe side. Thanks again for your help

If your plumbing it back in, then the 3" should work out nicely and allow for some growth as well :agreed:
 

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Land Shark!
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787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Alright I really am in the home stretch this time. I got all my funds lined up so I did some shopping.

Here is what is coming in the mail in the next couple weeks:

Apex'i N1 3" catback
Quaife LSD
GReddy turbo timer
E-manage Injector harness
Aeromotive rising rate FPR
440cc RC engineering injectors
Magnecore spark plug wires

All that is left to be ordered are oil lines, spark plugs, 3" catalytic converter. I also have set aside $2000 for installation and tuning which will include making pipes, wiring up electronics, and re-gapping piston rings. Once the quaife comes in I'm going to have my clutch, flywheel, and lsd isntalled so I can break in the clutch and then she goes in for the big install. :woot:
 

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648 Posts
i suspect regapping the piston rings will cost you roughly what a compelte rebuild will cost you. The labor is the same. Youa re better off in the long run with new pistons. I know its an added expense but why risk it?
 

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Registered
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648 Posts
600-100 depending on the brand. Cp's which are good and made for the car as a direct swap in are like 650 or so.
 

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Land Shark!
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787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks, I'll have to look into that. 650 isn't too much money but it would push back my plans by a couple weeks. I know that's not a long time but I'm getting antsy. I still need to talk to a shop to get a ball park quote on the whole thing so I can plan my funds accordingly.
 
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