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RIPPed
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547 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just got through installing the SDS and it cranked over and actually ran!!!!!!!!!!!

I still have to install the fuel pump, but I just cranked it to make sure it was running good BEFORE I install the fuel pump, so If I have any problems, I'll know its the fuel pump install.

A BIG thank you to Tearstone. Without his guidance, I would have shredded my belt. I had to add 2 washers behind the SDS idler pulley to keep the belt on straight, and without him warning me of that I'd be in trouble.

Also, I got a package from RIPP in the mail today.....it was a boost pulley. Apparently the pulley on the blower was the stage 1 pulley, they just didn't tell me. I'm gonna leave that pulley on there though for the 1st 1000 miles just to make sure the car is running solid.



Hey anyone....any advice on the fuel pump install??
 

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Kampfbereit
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17,852 Posts
:woot: Good deal Trev!!!!!! Glad to hear you go it running!!!

The fuel pump is a bish! Do you want to do it the Rippmods way or the AAI way? The Rippmods way will take about 1.5 hours to do, the AAI way takes about 10 minutes.

There is data in this thread regarding the AAI way of doing the Fuel Pump install: http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18537
 

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Vortech > VTEC
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1,450 Posts
TrevMill said:
A BIG thank you to Tearstone. Without his guidance, I would have shredded my belt. I had to add 2 washers behind the SDS idler pulley to keep the belt on straight, and without him warning me of that I'd be in trouble.
Congrats on getting her fired up! :fever:

How about some detail about this washer fix you had to do, and maybe some pics?
 

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RIPPed
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547 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
slavetothemuzic said:
Congrats on getting her fired up! :fever:

How about some detail about this washer fix you had to do, and maybe some pics?

Well, I didn't take any pics. But i'll explain it a little.

I put the pulley on the way it was supposed to be and tightened the belt down. I disconnected the crank angle sensor and turned the engine over a few times and got back out to look at the belt. What I saw was that the belt was walking off of the RIPP idler pulley away from the engine, telling me that the pulley was too close to the engine. I went to Lowes, picked up some 10mm washers (regular washers and waved lock washers that are a little thinner) and I put one of each between the pulley and the engine to make the pulley stick out further. I turned the engine over a couple more times, and the belt stayed on there perfectly, so I went ahead a cranked it. The belt isn't moving while the car is idling.....I won't know for sure until I drive it though. My luck, I'll be 50 miles away from my house when the belt comes off or breaks.
 

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RIPPed
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547 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Tearstone said:
:woot: Good deal Trev!!!!!! Glad to hear you go it running!!!

The fuel pump is a bish! Do you want to do it the Rippmods way or the AAI way? The Rippmods way will take about 1.5 hours to do, the AAI way takes about 10 minutes.

There is data in this thread regarding the AAI way of doing the Fuel Pump install: http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18537
I guess I have to do it the RIPP way. :( Oh well, I have all day.
 

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RIPPed
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547 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Well, while dremeling the fuel pump, I apparently dremeled too far. A $169 mistake.

On the side where the fuel pump plugs in, there are two little metal caps. While Dremeling both of those caps popped out and flew to God knows where because there are springs behind them. I don't know what purpose those little caps and springs serve, but I can see wires behind each of them, and the guys at RIPP said "That pump will never run again."

They're gonna trim the new pump for me before they send it, which I think may be a good idea for them to do on all the fuel pumps from now on.

Even after Dremeling "too much" off of the fuel pump, I still can't get it to fit back in there.

I kinda wish I had done it the way Tearstone was talking about, but I didn't want to veer from the RIPP instructions. :(
 

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RIPPed
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547 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
No, I destroyed my fuel pump, so I have to wait until possibly Friday to drive it when RIPP sends me another fuel pump.
 

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RIPPed
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547 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Tearstone said:
Just don't forget to grease the gromet once you are ready to put it back together for good.
You just grease the outside of it, right? I have white lithium grease, is that good enough? And do you put the grommet on cocked a little like the RIPP instructions say to do?

I examined the grommet pretty good. It seems like you'd really have to push pretty hard to tear it up putting it back in, but I can see how it would happen if you don't dremel everything out just right. Enough has gone wrong with my install so far, hopefully the fuel pump install will go better.

Also, that fucking ring that you have to hammer off with a screwdriver....do you HAVE to put that thing back on as tight as it was? It took me forever to get that bitch off.
 

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Kampfbereit
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17,852 Posts
TrevMill said:
You just grease the outside of it, right? I have white lithium grease, is that good enough? And do you put the grommet on cocked a little like the RIPP instructions say to do?

I examined the grommet pretty good. It seems like you'd really have to push pretty hard to tear it up putting it back in, but I can see how it would happen if you don't dremel everything out just right. Enough has gone wrong with my install so far, hopefully the fuel pump install will go better.

Also, that fucking ring that you have to hammer off with a screwdriver....do you HAVE to put that thing back on as tight as it was? It took me forever to get that bitch off.
I just emersed the gromet in motor oil and put it back into that upper fuel pump housing then slid the fuel pump into it. The gromets do indeed rip and tear under the high pressure of the walboro if installed incorrectly. We have another SDS guy that just had to replace his gromets twice. I showed him the AAI way to do the fuel pump, and he has been fine ever since.

That really tiny ring? I was able to put that back on Ryu's fuel pump. Although with the filter sitting against the bottom of the fuel pump it might not be necessary.
 

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RIPPed
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547 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Tearstone said:
That really tiny ring? I was able to put that back on Ryu's fuel pump. Although with the filter sitting against the bottom of the fuel pump it might not be necessary.
No, the big ass ring that is just under the back seat that holds the whole fuel pump assembly in place. I didn't think mine was ever going to come off. I was thinking that I would have to use the hammer and screwdriver just to loosen it and it would twist right off. But of course not, I had to hammer it every little turn and twist until it fell off.

I still don't understand what holds the fuel pump in place if you throw away that locking cap (piece #9 in the diagram in that link you gave me).
 

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OMG1AMSOHAPPYFORYOU!!!! :lol:

Glad everything is working out except for that fuel pump issue. And where the hell are my pictures bish?! :fawk:
 

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Yes, you have to put on the ring that goes on top of the fuel pump to seal it off. Have another person push down on the pump. Then, with a screwdriver and a hammer, hammer the top of the screwdriver as you hit/twist the ring back into place. That will finish the job off.
 

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Kampfbereit
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17,852 Posts
Trev there is a seal under that black plastic ring which has to go down over the gas tank BEFORE you finish sliding the rest of the fuel pump assembly in. If you slide it down the same time as that big black plastic ring you run the risk of damaging the seal and pinching it. We learned this lesson on another car we did, gas went everwhere :(
 

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I've playing with my fuel pump so many times. 1st time took 2 hrs .. but now I can take it out and put it back in 10-15 mins. Don't worry.

What I've learn:
-Using a screw driver may chip the plastic ring teeth, an extension is better option for me.
-Put the rubber O ring in the tank first. make sure the lip fits flat all around.
-Insert the fuel pump assembly to the tank. Make sure the return line and pressure line nozle point to the right direction then push all the way down until the top lip touches the rubber ring all around. You can see it/feel it with finger
-If the fuel hose bothers you, tape it out of the way.
-Put the plastic O ring back. because the pump assembly was pushed all the way down it can reach the thread immediately. Start to turn it with your hand. Once it hold the thread you can tighten it with extension and hammer.
-At the end make sure the ring tighten flat not angled.

If you top of the the tank and it does not leak then you r OK.
 
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