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Discussion Starter #1
So I picked up a 4g64 block from a junkyard for $200! It came from a '00 Galant, mileage unknown. I took it home and ripped it apart. I took the block to a machine shop, and traded the pos sohc head in for a g4js dohc head from cylinderheads international. The block got a good deep cleaning, and was rebuilt with new rings, bearings, the whole 9 yards. For the cylinder head, I put in evo8 beehive valve springs and hks 272 cams. I took a valve cover off of I think it was a Hyundai Santa Fe, although I'm not completely sure. While I was there, I also snatched the water pipe and the sensor that goes on the end of the camshaft.

So, when I got all of the pieces home for final assembly, I ran into some issues. First off, I read somewhere on these forums that arp head studs for the evo8 would work with this setup. I put them in mine and they are too short. What head studs do I need to go with? Second, on the sensor that i took off the hyundai for the camshaft, the bolt is too small to fit in the camshaft. The hole is in the end of the hks cam, and it is massive compared to the bolt that is supposed to go there. I'm not quite sure what to do about that.

I still have a ways to go. Adjustable cam gears, Timing belt, couple gaskets, intake manifold, turbo setup, and then the wiring situation. The third picture is how she sits now, although the cylinder head isn't actually bolted down.
 

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I don't have anything to add other than nice build and looking forward to seeing how it goes!!
 

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1) 4g63 11mm head studs
2) should be able to bored out the hole for the cam sensing wheel to use the bolt for the hks cam. But the sensing wheel from the Hyundai works with the 00-01 ecu, will need the evo one if you have a 02-05 ecu.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My cams didn't come with the bolt that goes on that end.. any idea what size it is? I might have to find one in a junkyard
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok so I have some updates. The block is at the shop getting modified for a balance shaft delete. Thanks to the wonderful guide from LaFuriaRoja01, I realized the part I need is the evo cam reluctor and bolt. I will be contacting the dealer about that soon. The right size head studs (hopefully) are on the way. I'm going to pick up a set of BC gold cam gears. Those will look best with my red valve cover. I'm going to have my local machine shop fab up a custom intake manifold because they seem to be very hard to find at a reasonable price. I think a 70mm throttle body should be plenty on that, but correct me if I am wrong. Also, I am going to get a new oil pump and water pump from the mitsu dealer just to be safe. I think the blue timing belt that a lot of guys use looks cool so I'm gonna throw one on here.
I have been thinking about the transmission I am going to pair this with. F5m31 and F5m33 seem to come up a lot as the good ones, but they are hard to find. I have read that the 00-05 Kia optima and 89-05 Hyundai Sonata came with a 4g64, so could I take a 5 speed from one of those and bolt it up to mine? They are much cheaper than the mitsu transmissions on craigslist. I'm pretty sure my block is a 7-bolt.
I am deciding to not do a turbo in my initial setup for time and money's sake. Also, doing a custom swap such as this, I need to make sure the motor runs properly in the new vessel before I try to boost it. Speaking of the new vessel, I have purchased it. 2000 Ford zx2 sr, only some 2,500 ever produced. I used to be a regular member on Teamzx2.com back in the day, but i'm not sure that anyone here has ever heard of it. Sadly, it no longer exists as a website, but I believe it does still have a following on facebook. Anyways, it has 200k on it and it was someone's beater for years. Like, honestly, it's disgraceful that someone had such a dope car and treated it this way. I picked it up for $750 and trailered it home from 2 hours away and got it to run. The clutch pedal was soft, but new master and slave cylinders corrected the issue. It is throwing a code for retarded timing but I could care less. I'm swapping it soon anyways so what the hell. New coilovers are going to run me $500, and are pretty much a must. The current set has a lot of miles and makes noise. Speaking of noise, I was ripping on that bad boy the other day and one of my wheel bearings started screaming at me. I have two Timken hub assembies on the way. Figured I might as well do the other side while I'm at it. It came with two 10" subs and an amp, but it was disconnected. I discovered it had a bad ground, fixed it, connected it to the battery, and it works great now. Car also came with a usb/aux radio head unit, so thats pretty cool. Interior was filthy but I vacuumed it out to the best of my abilities. The headlights were gross, but the turtlewax kit helped shine them up a little. After I tear it up a little more, the motor will be pulled, and I will begin wiring for the swap.

Here's a pic of how she sits now :)
sr baby.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Next step is to get the motor put together and do some due maintenance on the car to prep for the swap. I'm supposed to get the block back in the next day or two. My head studs came in, and I have an MLS head gasket ready to go. Coil overs will be ordered soon. The new wheel hubs are on back order and won't be here for another 15 days.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Ok so the new setup came in. Ground control adjustable coil over kit, kyb excel g struts, and the two timken wheel hubs. I tried to get it on yesterday, but ran in to a major issue. The front strut has a large silver gland nut that I can't get off. The coil overs came with an adjustable sleeve that i have to slide over the strut, but it won't fit over the gland nut.
coilover.jpg strut.jpg shit.jpg
 

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Turns out it was easy. All I had to do was hit it good with a pry bar and hammer and it came right off. I sawed off the lower spring perch on the new struts, and I cut the bump stop in half and put half of it on the new setup because thats what the instructions said to do. There is a little bearing dealio that sits against the upper strut mount and upper spring perch. the upper spring perch has a little fitting that the bearing sits inside of but I couldn't get it out. Even if I could, there is no way it would fit against the aluminum top hat supplied in the ground control kit. The top hat fits decently against the upper strut mount, and there is plenty of grease on the surface. I decided to install it without the bearing gizmo and see what happens.

My 2 Timken wheel hubs came in, but it turns out the only kit available on summit racing, which I ordered, was for the rear. I ordered 2 wheel bearings from oreilly to put in the front. The best brand they had was National, I did a google search and came up with good results so what the hell. The problem is that they have to be pressed into spindle, and then the hub has to be pressed into that. I will try my best, but I might end up taking it to Eric at my local machine shop.

The weird metal claw shaped thingy behind the hub is the spindle
eibach 1.jpg eibach 2.jpg spindlee.jpg
 
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