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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so i've aquired an evo 8 manifold with a stock evo 8 16g twin scroll turbo, and a j-pipe and o2 housing. Now its been said that this manifold can be used but spacers are needed. But it would be pointless to use this manifold on any turbo other than a twin scroll 16g. But unfortunately this evo turbos mount in such a way that they are in total interference with our starters so i got to thinking and did this today.

I spun the turbo around dsm style and slapped her in


The only problem doing that is the mounting holes on the manifold and hot side arent symetrical so you end up with only two bolts going in, one in thin air and one right in the cast iron


also the stock fan must go completely and i think i should clock the compressor side a tad but with the j-pipe on it points almost straight down


the o2 housing points right at the radiator though so that is a problem but its directly over the stock cat pipe

Not sure where im going with this, its kinda ghetto where as only two bolts are in but i could prob weld a plate for one and drill and tap the other i was just wondering what you all thought
 

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Evo IX
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Very creative. Room looks a bit tight in that space but im sure you'll figure it all out :clap:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
im thinking of putting this aside and getting a regular dsm manifold and turbo for now, and maybe still running the turbo in that orientation, it just looks simpler
 

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GS-Turbooo
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Get a DSM manifold and downpipe made for a 14b for now and run it.

Get the car used to boost (tune, break in, etc)

Get the car caught up (full fuel system, ecu, head work and cams, full turbo spec exhaust, intercool it, etc) then...

Swap the 14b with this:

GT30R Ball Bearing or GT32E

Direct bolt on to your manifold and downpipe for the 14b. Just modify the intercooler piping
 

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Clipse3GT said:
Take it to any weld shop and have something figured out.
I just thought of something...

What if you bought one of those stainless MeGan RaCing manifolds they make for the evo (readily sold on ebay; see link), and cut the flange off where the hotside mounts, spun it 180 degrees, and welded it back. This should put your flange right where it needed to be to properly mount the turbo.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Mitsubishi-Evol...3QQihZ011QQcategoryZ38786QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

(...could maybe work...)
:hmm:


So choke, when you mounted the turbo like this there were no problems with hitting the starter or anything else?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
some day... some day... i notice thats what all the evo guys upgrade to from their setup
for now im just gonna get my feet wet in the boosted world with a 16g, either this one or a dsm style

the thing is about flipping a the plate on the bottom is the way the twin scroll manifold is, cylinders 1 and 4 go to one side, and 2 and 3 another, i'll have to think about that for a while

flipping the turbo 180 degrees puts it waaay away from the starter, infact you start almost having clearance issues with the radiator, hence removing the whole fan. Remember that is specificallly an evo 8 turbo so its shaped different than most 16gs anyways. I did bend the shit out of my a/c lines too.
 

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OMFG... Erf.....
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the factory manifold and turbo can't be reversed on the evo 8
i tried that already with my old evo 8 manifold and 16g, the best bet is what, gsknight said,
GSKnight he reserved the turbo so the turbo curves outwards instead of inwards so it doesn't hit the starter i tried that too lol
 

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Well, now we still run into the problem of the fans and A/C lines...

...as well as fabricating a custom downpipe

Pretty much the same problems that every custom set up on a 3g runs into.
 

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Alright, I know this thread kind of petered out, like every other discussion we try to have on the Evo VIII equipment, but we need to bring this back up for the sake of progress in this area. There have been a couple of guys that have actually solved the problems with this set up. I dont want to speak for them in any way, but I want to post up some pics of their set ups in hopes that they will explain how they were able to get everything to work. Maybe we can get some solid info on an alternative FI route, that can be fairly inexpensive, and can create some very respectable power.

DNS-EN's Setup.




I contacted DNS-EN and asked him about the specifics of his set up. He was extremely helpful and shared the following information with me.

DNS-EN on the Head Spacer: "I Just needed a 1/2" spacer made to angle the turbo up. Had to drill 2 holes in the starter housing and move the ground wire around. That was about it. I'll tell you what though it's putting down at least 280 to the wheels now and it can be a little scary it accelarates so fast now. Well worth the $1200 I spent to upgrade it. Look at Roadraceengineering.com in the do it yourself flanges and gaskets. You want a 4g63 exhuast manifold 1/2" spacer. Take it to someone with a bridgeport and a grinder and have it ground to 1/4" on the top and 3/8" on the bottom so that it angles the exhuast up slightly."

DNS-EN on using Longer studs to mount the manifold and spacer to the head: "I changed 3 of them the small ones on the bottom It wouldn't be a bad idea."

DNS-EN on using the Evo 3" downpipe and o2 Housing: "Where the downpipe bolts up to the o2 housing you need to slot the bolt holes and move the hangers back 6 inches. Thats all everything else is bolt on."



Bluebomber's Evo Setup. The link to the thread where this setup is discussed is in the above post by chokeX.




*Again, I am in no way trying to speak for the individuals who engineered these setups; I am simply trying to get a discussion started that could help progress the 4g64. Please chime in if you have ANY experience with trying to get this to work. The more info we have the better.
 

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Would this setup work with the sporty? I would only assume so. Since its being discussed Im about to purchase the Megan manifold with the RRE spacer than get me a TD05HR and see if all works well.
 

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I've also got the sporty; I *think* we will have less room. I cant say for sure though, but maybe someone else can.

The only problem with this is the starter hitting the compressor housing. What if there was a smaller starter, or one from another car that was shaped differently that we could use? I'm trying to find some pics of what the Evo starter actually looks like and where it's located in relation to the turbo.

Edit: I got some pics of the evo starter





Evo Starter


Eclipse Starter (4g64 all transmissions)
 

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The starter was the only part I was worried about I ground about 1/4" off of the big flat spot on the back of the turbo also. This allowed clearance from the starter to the center section. Also you need to take part Number 13 from the pic above and drill the 3rd hole spot out on the end then spin the piece so the the ground for the starter is facing the engine. Once you do this take your stock heat shield and cut the section off that is bent out leaving 2 bolt holes and covering the end of the starter near the center section and bottom of the starter (I also wrapped mine with heat wrap). Those are the main engineering problems I guess.
 

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DNS-EN said:
The starter was the only part I was worried about I ground about 1/4" off of the big flat spot on the back of the turbo also. This allowed clearance from the starter to the center section. Also you need to take part Number 13 from the pic above and drill the 3rd hole spot out on the end then spin the piece so the the ground for the starter is facing the engine. Once you do this take your stock heat shield and cut the section off that is bent out leaving 2 bolt holes and covering the end of the starter near the center section and bottom of the starter (I also wrapped mine with heat wrap). Those are the main engineering problems I guess.
So you used an Evo starter? :dunno:
 

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OMFG... Erf.....
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hmm with all this work and stuff u want to do to get the evo 8 turbo and manifold to fit on you can easily get a 16G and evo3 ported manifold for same or cheaper, i've never tried the evo starter but when i tried the evo manifold and turbo it hits the starter and even with the fans removed the factory wastegate comes real real close to hitting the radiator, and if u decide to use manifold spacers u'll need a few gaskets and longer studs which is also alot of extra work. i think your better off going with a dsm turbo and evo 3 manifold or something 2g or 1g setup. much less costly and no serious hack job work involved
 
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