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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As i lift the front end off the ground with the motor running in neutral, as soon as the car is started, there is a loud metal clanking noise coming near the driver side axle and transmission area. While driving on the road, especially when slowing down when it was only noticeable at the time, the steering wheel would pull to the left really hard right away. It's like something disconnected near the front/driver suspension area. From the last time it was driven, i was able to shift into gears and drive. While driving the car, i don't hear that same metal noise when lifted off the ground but feel the car jerking as if the motor mounts are loose. I checked motor mounts (deyeme polyurethane), and they looked fine in one piece. And while the car was lifted off the ground, i looked at everything and couldn't see any visible damages. I just hope it ain't the trans because it has been replaced once before. Anybody know what the hell is the problem this time?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
At first, i thought i could see the problem being the axle once looking underneath the car. Lifted the car up and looked, everything seems to be in place. i don't see no leaks from the axle. No rips. Nothing. That's when i thought it was something that can't be seen (internal), but what would cause the steering wheel to just pull to the left if it's something internal? This is where i thought was the axle that snapped or something. Anyway, this metal clanking noise can be heard while the wheel is spinning off the ground. I haven't heard this constant noise while driving it on the road.
 

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The pull to the left. Check the ball joints.. Ive seen them pull out a bit and move around and allow the tire to do exactly what you are saying when braking.

With both tires off the ground and the wheel locked move each tire by hand back and fourth to see if there is to much play in the motion..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The pull to the left. Check the ball joints.. Ive seen them pull out a bit and move around and allow the tire to do exactly what you are saying when braking.

With both tires off the ground and the wheel locked move each tire by hand back and fourth to see if there is to much play in the motion..
and if there is play?
 

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sounds to me like you need a new Axle... I had that metal clanking sound and one day it sounded like something was broken; turned the car on but it wouldnt move cause the axle was broken. I paid about 250 I believe to replaced it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
sounds to me like you need a new Axle... I had that metal clanking sound and one day it sounded like something was broken; turned the car on but it wouldnt move cause the axle was broken. I paid about 250 I believe to replaced it.
I really hope so. the reason i cannot really believe its the axle is because it doesn't look busted. in fact, it looks pretty brand new. to be honest, it started happening when i had cut springs when the car would bottom out really hard over bumps. was stupid i know.

as for the play in the wheels. if you mean pulling the wheel in and out, then no. there is no play. as for spinning the wheel in circles left or right. i don't know if theres sense of that.
 

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When I cant track things down I just get a diagnostic done.. Runs between 50 and 70 bucks if you don't have your own mechanic. From there I decide if I wanna do the work myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
When I cant track things down I just get a diagnostic done.. Runs between 50 and 70 bucks if you don't have your own mechanic. From there I decide if I wanna do the work myself.
I live far from everything. i don't even know how i'm gonna get the car anywhere else. It was driveable right before i overtook a slow moving civic. didn't mention that.
 

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New daddy
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It is probably the diff, but there is an outside chance that it is an axle. You probably have a few teeth missing off of one or more of the gears in the diff. It will cause metal clanking noises, erratic pulling of the steering wheel (especially in corners), and anything from jerking while driving to the car not being able to move underneath it's own power.
 

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lift the car and turn the driver side tire, the passenger side should turn the opposite direction, if it doesnt, or moves jerkily, it is your diff.
 

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New daddy
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lift the car and turn the driver side tire, the passenger side should turn the opposite direction, if it doesnt, or moves jerkily, it is your diff.
Definately, this is the way that I found out that I had two teeth missing off of one gear 180 degrees apart. The tire would get a little harder to rotate every 1/2 revolution. Make sure you lift both tires off the ground at the same time. Also, little pieces of gear can either bind up the gears causing more damage, or they can just bounce around the case. It really depends on how lucky you are and where they land.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks all. i really appreciate all of your help. I'll be checking on that once i get the chance.
 

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Lift and Separate
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If you have been spinning the tires a lot lately and experiencing wheel hop, I wouldn't be surprised for a second if it's the differential. My stock differential only lasted 3 runs down the drag strip; they're not very strong at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
There's no wheel hop. besides, at the time i overtook a car the road was wet so the tires weren't grabbing as much anyway. Road was smooth and all. I also drive the car like a grandma, so i don't drive the car very rough. At least not a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yup, it's my transmission...AGAIN!!! i didn't abuse this tranny. I got this tranny used which felt shittier than my original. Who knows what the hell this tranny went through. I don't trust these expensive used parts especially for this car. son of a bitch. I just went out to check out my car. I spinned the tire like i was told. The opposite side doesn't spin at all. The tranny is making sounds, the exact sounds when my first tranny blew. This loud impacting noise everytime i roll the car in gear. It's definetely the tranny.

What should i do now? Any suggestions getting this problem fixed? repair the same tranny at a transmission shop? Find another damn used one? This tranny that is about to break was bought for $650 of money wasted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
and i still gotta fix the head gasket which was actually the problem i've been waiting forever to fix. now this? bull shit, i tell ya.
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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What should i do now? Any suggestions getting this problem fixed? repair the same tranny at a transmission shop? Find another damn used one? This tranny that is about to break was bought for $650 of money wasted.
My suggestion would be to have the tranny rebuilt (approx $600-700? for removal, rebuild & reinstall + should include a 1yr+ warranty). Not just replace the diff but have the whole thing rebuilt. A new replacement tranny would be ideal but I'm pretty sure that would be out of reach for most of our budgets.

Sorry to hear about the tranny issues :( I know how bad they can suck balls :angryazn:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Nope, i was told from a popular trans shop here in this gay state Hawaii that it'll cost an easy $1300-1500 to rebuilt the tranny. He also said, even with a rebuilt one ain't no guarantee it'll last.
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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Nope, i was told from a popular trans shop here in this gay state Hawaii that it'll cost an easy $1300-1500 to rebuilt the tranny. He also said, even with a rebuilt one ain't no guarantee it'll last.
I guess the fact that you are located in a tiny state in the middle of the Pacifc accounts for that ridiculous price! I guess everything but pineapples is more expensive there. I'd ask some other shops for their prices as well. It could vary a bit shop by shop. Well, compare that cost to a NEW tranny. I bet the rebuild will look much more appealing. And I don't see how there would be a gaurantee that a new tranny would last either... unless you had Mitsu do the install, in which case you may be better off just buying a different Eclipse or that cost LOL. How many miles did your 1st tranny make it to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I guess the fact that you are located in a tiny state in the middle of the Pacifc accounts for that ridiculous price! I guess everything but pineapples is more expensive there. I'd ask some other shops for their prices as well. It could vary a bit shop by shop. Well, compare that cost to a NEW tranny. I bet the rebuild will look much more appealing. And I don't see how there would be a gaurantee that a new tranny would last either... unless you had Mitsu do the install, in which case you may be better off just buying a different Eclipse or that cost LOL. How many miles did your 1st tranny make it to?
First one lasted till about 75,000 miles. the car currently have 114,000 miles. kinda short for the second trans life. I didn't even abuse this one as much compared to the original one (power shifting, popping the clutch, burning out and shit). Like I said, who knows what this used one went through before swapping it onto my car. well, brand new here is more than 2,000 dollars for a transmission at the dealer. i think i'm gonna look for another USED one.
 
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