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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been told by a mechanic that I needed all four of my motor mounts changed.. So i was just wondering instead of buying new motor mounts could I just buy Inserts and add them?
 

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Sometimes it's really difficult to remove rubber bushing from the mount, or the actual mount is physically cracked, rusted through etc. In those cases you may want to buy brand new mounts.

Otherwise, people in this forum are generally happy with Prothane mount inserts, which are a significant cost savings as compared to new mounts. This can be done in one afternoon with some elbow grease and basic tools.
 

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Changing the inserts takes a little more time, but its really not too bad if you know what you are doing. The issue is cutting the steel band that the rubber is molded to in the mount. That needs to be removed for sure to fit the Energy Suspensions and I'm sure its the same for Prothane.

I've used both Energy Suspensions and Prothane products and I've had good luck from both. The Energy Suspensions torque mounts seem a little stiffer from what I've seen.
 

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UMADBREH?
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you need a getto rigged press or vice to do the prothane swap, if you have the v6 its worth it but dont if you have the I4
Not true at all. A large clamp and some grease and they go in just fine. Lastly, if you have the cash, spring for genuine OEM mounts as they will last longer and keep vibrations down. Prothanes / Energy Suspension mounts are good for performance applications but in stock form, OEM is fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm going to have to buy new motor and transmission mounts as they said mine are already broken.. should I also buy poly mounts and add that to the new motor mounts?
 

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If you are just doing a daily driver that looks nice. OEM is the way to go longer life and no vibrations. This is based on the 4g64. If you have the 6g72 its up to you. I still feel OEM is best bang for the buck
 

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My Snail's Bigger =P
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Not true at all. A large clamp and some grease and they go in just fine. Lastly, if you have the cash, spring for genuine OEM mounts as they will last longer and keep vibrations down. Prothanes / Energy Suspension mounts are good for performance applications but in stock form, OEM is fine.
If you are just doing a daily driver that looks nice. OEM is the way to go longer life and no vibrations. This is based on the 4g64. If you have the 6g72 its up to you. I still feel OEM is best bang for the buck
This:agreed:
 

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Paroxysm
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243 Posts
I used to have some aluminium inserts (Locking collars) for my rear subframe mounts on my 240SX S14a that REALLY firmed things up. It would Interesting if something could be made to work with the original mounts to firm them up rather than using energy inserts etc. (or does something like this already exist?)

I would look at the total cost of getting rubber mounts vs aftermarket inserts/replacements and take into account increased road noise/comfort.

BTW: Combo I've seen on the forum recommended.

Front and Rear Mounts: Energy Suspension
Side mounts: Prothane or OEM/Rubber.

The prothane are not recommended for front and rear as even after 5000 miles they deform and are ruined (Luckily I saw the info and pictures before I purchased them!)

(I'm entertained that I see three of my previous car's in a google image search if I put in 'eclipse 3g locking collars').
 

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If you've got a V6 just do the prothanes and be done. The entire kit can be bought for the price of just one (of four) OEM mounts, and the OEM mounts (which are an inferior design) will just break again.

I don't know why everyone else has so many problems with the Prothane front and rear mounts. Mine hold up to 300+wtq and have seen 270+ for close to 15000 miles. These are the "new" design, without holes.

Pressing them in isn't the most fun evolution, but the bitch of it is getting the old ones out.
 

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If you've got a V6 just do the prothanes and be done. The entire kit can be bought for the price of just one (of four) OEM mounts, and the OEM mounts (which are an inferior design) will just break again.

I don't know why everyone else has so many problems with the Prothane front and rear mounts. Mine hold up to 300+wtq and have seen 270+ for close to 15000 miles. These are the "new" design, without holes.

Pressing them in isn't the most fun evolution, but the bitch of it is getting the old ones out.
Again.... as long as its the new design they should be ok. Hell the kits is now coming with the crossmember bushings as well.

New Design:


But I am sure there are companies out there that still have old stock of the perforated front/rear mounts. Those wont hold up too long.
 

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I used to have some aluminium inserts (Locking collars) for my rear subframe mounts on my 240SX S14a that REALLY firmed things up. It would Interesting if something could be made to work with the original mounts to firm them up rather than using energy inserts etc. (or does something like this already exist?)

I would look at the total cost of getting rubber mounts vs aftermarket inserts/replacements and take into account increased road noise/comfort.

BTW: Combo I've seen on the forum recommended.

Front and Rear Mounts: Energy Suspension
Side mounts: Prothane or OEM/Rubber.

The prothane are not recommended for front and rear as even after 5000 miles they deform and are ruined (Luckily I saw the info and pictures before I purchased them!)

(I'm entertained that I see three of my previous car's in a google image search if I put in 'eclipse 3g locking collars').
I've been tossing around the idea of fabbing up some solid aluminum engine/trans mounts for the 3G but getting all the mounts lined up under the hood would be a very difficult task. The LS1 in my Camaro is mounted solid to the frame and it idles smooth as silk.
 

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Again.... as long as its the new design they should be ok. Hell the kits is now coming with the crossmember bushings as well.

But I am sure there are companies out there that still have old stock of the perforated front/rear mounts. Those wont hold up too long.
:)This is accurate and helpful info as far as I can tell. I just received a set of Prothane (red) mounts and as I was looking at them I was concerned that they were "wrong" due to there NOT being any holes in the 2 front and rear inserts.

I was not aware of the production change until I read Drunkoffjuic's post.:)Now I feel better.

I was also pleased to find the new set DID come with the smaller bushings for the cross-member. Cool!:yesway:

I will be installing them this weekend. We shall see.
 

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I need new motor mounts as well, more specifically the left side one on my 01 GS, and decided to take a trip to the salvage yard and pulled off one from an 02 and only paid $10 no for it. It looked brand new, new cracks, rust, the rubber was almost perfect condition, where has if I went to AutoZone, Oriley's, AdavancedAutoParts etc. it was going to cost me $100, for the same part, I know RockAuto.com has the same part for $50, but I'm impatient waiting for "car parts" :p
 
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