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Because that doesn't exist for any of the 6G7x engines, especially with a 1mm overbore like I have. Also you don't want something that cuts into the already thin/weak head deck.


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Discussion Starter #482
All the orings are installed and I'm happy with how they came out!


I cleaned all the pistons and was about to install the heads when I noticed my cyl 6 piston was leaning towards the drivers side. I pulled the piston/rod and found that there was a slight bend about an inch below the wrist pin.



Since I found the bent rod I thought it best to pull all the cylinders and inspect for more damage. It looks like some debris made it's way through the engine and deposited in the bearings. Luckily the crank journals still look good.


There was some deep scoring on a couple piston skirts. Glad I'm catching all of this now before it decided to install a new bay window in the block :ROFLMAO: the new rod and bearings was under $250 and no need to rebalance. I'm very fortunate. The new parts will be here next week and I can finish the block.


While the engine is on "vacation" I'll likely pull the trans and install the new "stage 1" clutch packs. I'm having 2 wisdom teeth removed later today so I'm hoping that doesn't hinder my plans. Stay tuned
 

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Damn bro!! Glad u noticed it sooner rather than later!!!
 
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Discussion Starter #487
Damn bro!! Glad u noticed it sooner rather than later!!!
Yeah it could have ended much worse. Especially how hard I push my car.

Now that's some attention to detail there, nice catch.
Thanks I'm glad I decided to clean the pistons or I would have never noticed the slight lean.

Well that's a flat-top piston if I've ever seen one. Lol!
Yup lol it's a cloned 75 non-mivec piston with the small raised circle in the middle removed.

So how did the rod get bent that direction?

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That's a question I probably won't be able to answer. Seeing as it was only that cylinder it most likely wasn't too much boost. I'm hoping I can turn it down this year and still make more power
 

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Discussion Starter #488 (Edited)
After my 2 lower wisdom teeth were removed I formed a hematoma under my jaw and it's extremely painful. I've been trying to recover and not be too active. I found some motivation to get a few smaller projects done while I wait for the new rod to come in.

I bought a full Wings West kit from a member here that happened to be painted in my same sterling silver color. After a few weeks I finally had it but found lots of damage occured during shipping. All components will have to be repainted which wont happen til the rest of my car is so might as well install it and see how it looks. I can't believe how poorly these kits fit! It's taken so much sanding to get a sort of good fit and I only have the front lip on so far. I'm happy with how it looks though.


I also have been wanting to ditch the 74 oil pan and swap on a 75 pan. The mivec pan has awesome baffling so it was a clear choice. I drilled the pan and welded a 1/2" NPT fitting in so I can easily change adapters at any point. My last pan just had a 12an fitting welded on.




My next project is finishing up swapping billet rear lower control arms and a thicker ST sway bar for the 2g. All together it only adds about 4.5lbs. I had to lower the rear subframe to get bolts out and it's in the process of reassembly. More pics will be posted when done
 

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I recall seeing more than a few of those lips at 3G meets that had a lot of caulking to fill the gaps around the front bumper. Some put in the extra effort to make them fit properly and some just busted out the pack of deck screws.
 

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Discussion Starter #493 (Edited)
The whole kit really does change the look of the car. I can't wait to get it done!

While I was installing the rear control arms I noticed I never relocated the tank strap mounting point for the 2G tank. Would it have fallen out? No but it was just one of those details that I wanted to fix later on and never got around to. Well I had purchased a nutsert kit which made fixing the issue simple. I drilled a hole in the correct location, installed the nutsert, and then used a bolt while leaving the OE stud in the body. The strap now sits in the groove of the tank (y)



When I'm feeling better I'll have more updates!
 

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Discussion Starter #494
I'm up late and figured I'd check the thread but it looks like I forgot to post this a few days ago. I received the new rod and bearings and went ahead with reassembly. Turns out the crank is bent as well and needs to be replaced. The main bearings have some wear on the outer edges and one of the thrust washers is being slightly pinched on the trans end of the crank meaning it's tweaked. I would have never noticed but with the new bearings in and everything properly torqued it has a lot of drag.

I spent a good majority of yesterday pulling an 07 Galant engine to rob the crank from. I plan to throw it in the parts washer and then have it balanced before retrying the reassembly process. Wish me luck cause I need it at this point 🤞
 

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Discussion Starter #496
Ok, how the hell did you bend the crank?
I measured deflection with a dial indicator at the trans end of the crank. After dynoing and seeing lower power I parked the car until I took the top end apart for the cams. There were several check balls that had fallen out of exhaust rocker arms and collapsed lifters that were on cylinders 4-6 and I believe the cylinder pressures were extremely high from lack of exhaust exiting. That's all I can think that would bend a rod and crank on that end.
 

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Discussion Starter #498
I pulled an 07 Galant 3.8 crank from my local u-pull-it yard last week and brought it and a rod/piston to a machine shop the following day to be balanced. The new crank needed lots of mass removed from the counterweights but balanced out perfect. Then I threw it in the parts washer which removed most of the baked on oil. The remaining oil on the crank bearing surfaces was removed with a scotchbrite pad, some penetrant, and a lot of very light scuffing. After reassembly of the crank, rods/pistons and new bearings it turns over really smooth by hand. Next I have to finish cleaning and painting the Mivec oil pan and then it will be installed along with the heads. It's finally going back together after being an exploded mess on the garage floor for weeks! Pics will follow shortly
 

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Those aren't scuffs, they'll just help hold the oil in place that's all.

So used to be you could just buy TCE under the name Carbosol at hardware stores, that stuff could strip varnish off engine parts like nothing else and get you pretty fucking high in the process. Seems to be that since 2006 you can't get it so easily anymore, something about cancer and air quality. This is the replacement for it, not sure how well it works but worth a shot.
Also might try a 3M 7445 pad in the future, it's super mild. There's one less abrasive for aircraft use but I'm not sure how available it is. With a nasty enough solvent youn should be able to avoid much if any abrasive that would damage the journals. Might be worth taking a polish to them with some crocus cloth or something finer and just double check clearnance with some plastigauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #500
I made more progress but have more pics to upload later. Here is where I'm at.

The oil pump was cleaned and resealed to the block along with the rear main seal/housing. I also have a windage tray for the first time. The shitty Super Tech filter is for first startup so you can spare me the lecture :LOL:



The Mivec oil pan was cleaned, painted, then installed. The lower pan will be painted tonight. Notice the improved baffling of the Mivec oil pan


The short block is fully assembled and head gasket surfaces ready to go. The water pump is reinstalled.


I owned a $500 Sony home stereo probably 15 years ago that I sold and have regretted ever since. I was tired of playing music through my phone and have the shelf space in my new garage so I picked up another stereo! It's not as powerful as what I had but sounds great and gets loud enough to annoy the neighbors. For $50 I couldn't go wrong!
 
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