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Garage stereo is key. We use a bluetooth speaker that is pretty good, but I'm thinking I want to pick up something used like that in the future. Need more power!
 

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At work we've got 4 speakers from different boom boxes and my old Hitachi receiver from the 70's my mom gave me decades ago. It absolutely jams! If you see something like a Fisher or Panasonic or Hitachi for sale cheap at a garage sale or in the trash grab it, they almost never break unless they get dunked in water and put out some shockingly good beats and fairly cleanly too.

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Discussion Starter #503
The heads and timing components are now on.


The lower intake is painted and will be installed soon. Intake valve lash still needs to be set with the new cams but that's quick to do. I'm pulling the trans tonight and plan to have it rebuilt and reinstalled tomorrow night. Stay tuned :whistle:
 

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Discussion Starter #505
You mentioned the shitty super tech oil filter. Any filter in particular you recommend on for stock GTS setup?
Mitsubishi MZ690116, Bosch, Wix, Amsoil, FVP, etc are a few that I have run. I avoid Fram and Super Tech like the plague. I work at a Mitsu dealer so I save a bit and prefer to run the OE filters when possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #507
Those MIVEC heads make the V6's look like a gym-bro that always skips leg day.
Lol do you even lift bro?! 💪

I've been pretty tired after work so an afternoon nap was more important and I'm a little behind on removing and rebuilding the trans. I had a lower ball joint bolt on the drivers side come out rough which held me up but both axles and stub shafts are out. Then the tcase and converter came out.


Normally I'd drop the trans out the bottom but with no engine in the bay it was easy to pull it through the top. I was able to leave the crossmember in as well. A load leveler made maneuvering the trans simple.


I have a short catch tray from a washing machine that contains the mess well. It's ready for some new parts.


The bell housing is off, the center diff is removed, the oil pump is removed, and the input shaft/underdrive carrier is pulled and flipped for replacement of the friction discs. I looked through a Raybestos catalog to find these discs and they are the only upgraded discs I've ever been able to find. IPT Trans had no idea they exist and basic Google searches pull up nothing. I'm glad they are still available and I hope they will hold much more power.

 

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I see youre are running a mishimoto radiator. The engine for my GTS is ready from the machine shop (stock setup) and I am considering buying one. How do you like it? Did the fans line up? My radiator is the factory one but, considering all the other new parts that are going with this engine, I dont want to skimp on this critical component
 

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Discussion Starter #509
I see youre are running a mishimoto radiator. The engine for my GTS is ready from the machine shop (stock setup) and I am considering buying one. How do you like it? Did the fans line up? My radiator is the factory one but, considering all the other new parts that are going with this engine, I dont want to skimp on this critical component
I think they're pretty well made and I recommend it. The fans do line up. I think the standoffs might be a little too short on the far passenger side so the fan comes very close to the edge of the radiator. I bent my fan away from the radiator slightly so I wouldn't have issues.
 

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Did you end up using the radiator cap that came with the it? Reason I ask, I have been told they cause the coolant to back up in the overflow.
 

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Discussion Starter #511
Did you end up using the radiator cap that came with the it? Reason I ask, I have been told they cause the coolant to back up in the overflow.
The Mishimoto cap is rated to 19lbs. I swapped mine out to a "locking" cap that's only rated to 16lbs but it seems to work correctly.

The trans has new 3rd, 4th, reverse, and 2nd friction discs and is going back together. The clutch pack clearances had to be opened up a little and now there should be no drag when the pack isn't engaged. The bellhousing is sealed to the body. Now I have to install the valve body and then seal the side cover and pan and can drop it right back in. Quick and easy and should be a huge upgrade!
 

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Discussion Starter #512
Couple more updates. The trans is sealed back up and installed along with the tcase.


I cleaned up and simplified the trans wiring. As you can see there's probably 30 cut/heat shrinked wires that I zip tied to the trans wiring. Those are from the various emissions solenoids/sensors that have been removed. All of those wires are removed in my dual ecu harness as well.


Next I had to replace the inner cv boot on my RF axle. The downpipe rubbed until the larger clamp fell off and it shaved down the boot. I removed and cleaned the cup. Then removed the snap ring and pulled off the cv joint. All the needle bearings look good (y)


The smaller clamp was removed and the axle boot slid off the cv shaft.


Reassembly was the reverse order and was easy. I put 90% of the grease in the cup and the rest around the needle bearings. The end result:



While fixing the axle I noticed the bottom mounts on my front coilovers were bent towards the back of the wheel wells which I assume happened from aggressive launches. I was able to straighten them in the press at work and then swapped the sides before reinstalling them.


Lastly I found out the hard way that the 75nm and 75 Mivec oil pick up tubes are different lengths when I realized the lower oil pan wouldn't fit! I had to remove the upper oil pan and reseal everything after swapping the correct tube in. The short block is now sealed up. The lower intake is installed with new gaskets and then the fuel rails and regulator were installed. Only thing left to do is set intake valve lash and it can be dropped back into the car. I also got a small start on modifying some headers for my new turbo kit! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #513
Prior to installing the engine I decided to figure out the oil pressure sensors/oil feed/oil return. It's a very tight fit with the a/c compressor bracket (needed for the 6G75 alternator and eventually a/c)



The engine is in!


I cleaned up the exhaust studs


I also cleaned up the front of the engine wiring which included upgrading the starter wire from 8awg to 4awg and making this nice and tidy



I needed a welding table that I could straddle and had a wide top for larger items. I ended up grabbing a pallet from work and making one! I was able to finish about 80% of it with the one pallet


The new tig welder parts I ordered are working really well. I'm not even close to a professional but I'm happy with how my welds look :)
 

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Mmmm need more penetration.
No but seriously, while pretty those look a little cold on the flange side of the weld, it looks like there's a slight under cut on the flange side of the bead of weld but you do look like you have a good bias toward the flange going on, may try pre-heating the flange with a torch before welding it. Also what kind of flux are you using to stop the inside from getting grainy with 'the sugar', back purging?
 

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Discussion Starter #516
Mmmm need more penetration.
No but seriously, while pretty those look a little cold on the flange side of the weld, it looks like there's a slight under cut on the flange side of the bead of weld but you do look like you have a good bias toward the flange going on, may try pre-heating the flange with a torch before welding it. Also what kind of flux are you using to stop the inside from getting grainy with 'the sugar', back purging?
I use Solar Flux Type B. This was just meant to be a small weld to hold the pipe before I have it expanded to fit the flange. After it's expanded I'll finish the welds and use more heat. These flanges warp fairly easily so I'm limiting amperage to 70a max.
Welding table made out of wood? What about conductivity and fire? Looks nice though!
I'll be adding a steel top when I have a chance to stop at the store. As of now I've grounded directly to the object I'm welding.
 

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I use Solar Flux Type B. This was just meant to be a small weld to hold the pipe before I have it expanded to fit the flange. After it's expanded I'll finish the welds and use more heat. These flanges warp fairly easily so I'm limiting amperage to 70a max.

I'll be adding a steel top when I have a chance to stop at the store. As of now I've grounded directly to the object I'm welding.
Nice

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