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Discussion Starter #521
I updated the main post again (y) couple updates too. First was taking care of my daily driver: my 04 Endeavor. The passenger side wiper arm has 2 pivot points and 2 bearings. Those bearings come apart over time and then the arm falls off like mine did. Instead of replacing the arm for $90 I spent $10 and pressed in new bearings and used stainless hardware. Next time I'm at the junk yard I'll find the plastic cover that goes over them as well.



Next I was able to break loose my rear coilovers and clean up the threads. The corrosion was pretty bad but the wire wheel cleaned them up and a layer of copper spray will prevent corrosion. I'll be purchasing coilover bags in the near future so this never happens again. I reinstalled the coilovers and lowered the car another 1-1.5" all around. It looks much more aggressive :sneaky:



Lastly I've made a lot more progress on the turbo kit. Both manifolds are now done and I've moved on to the crossover piping/merge. One of the pics shows how Solar Flux works. I didn't have a perfectly even layer but there's no sugaring inside the pipe. Much easier and more cost effective than back purging.



 

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Discussion Starter #523
The 4an nuts and sleeves showed up so I was able to make the hard vacuum line between the intake and fuel pressure regulator.


I took the turbine housing inlet flange from my previous kit and cleaned it up to be reused. As you can see the inner lip is a little intrusive and would hurt flow. I used my dremel to take down the lip and then welded over the lip to make a smoother transition.



After the flange cooled I tacked it to the crossover pipe for a test fit. The turbo is sitting about 1/4"-1/2" higher than I'd like so I'll be taking that much off the merge and can tack the vband on again. If it's good then I'll weld the inlet flange and the crossover pipe flanges.
 

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Very nice and clean..(y)
 

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Discussion Starter #525
I shortened the merge and the turbo now sits perfect so I welded all 3 pre turbo vband flanges and it fits like a glove. Then I started on the downpipe. I was able to use probably 70% of the previous downpipe which saved me from buying more pre bent piping. I started by cutting off and cleaning up the vband flange. Then I welded it to a 45 degree bend directly off the turbine housing. My welds are consistently improving!



Here is with all the pre turbo vbands welded and the downpipe finished.


The next step was determining a spot for the single wastegate setup I'm going with and then notching the pipes for the wastegate inlet. I'm about halfway done notching the pipes and will show the placement after they're done. This 3" pipe notcher (currently mounted in my bandsaw since I haven't built a bench) is one of my favorite tools I've purchased. I plan to modify it to hold up to 3.5" pipes for future setups.


After I've finished the wastegate stuff it's onto the intercooler piping and I can drive it! Stay tuned :)
 

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Discussion Starter #527 (Edited)
I just noticed you have hood shocks in lieu of the prop rod. How did you do this?
I used the kit in this link. I'm not a huge fan of having to use self tappers into the hinges but it works. It would have been nice if they made an upper bracket that used the hood bolts instead. Also I skipped riveting the lower mount to the fender.

I forgot to add those to the main post but will do that now. Thanks
 

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At some point might as well injected fuel into the intake runners, lol. Good job though.
 

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Maybe he means the constant flow shower injection system that's used on some really big HP applications to get enough fuel under boost but still have an engine that runs off boost and can idle. I know when injectors get really big it's hard to turn them on and off fast enough to get fuel down low enough to idle the engine acceptably. The shower injectors just turn on and flow atomized fuel constantly like a carb would do from it's jets. Crude but effective when you're pushing huge amounts of air. Bonus, the evaporating fuel cools the intake air charge as it sucks heat to vaporize itself.
 
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