[Murkrow]

Isn't it so much fun to find that you need to make one small change and then change 4 other things that now no longer fit as intended but end up making the whole thing better in the process.

That seems to always be how it goes... Fix one thing and now another needs to be fixed. In this case I made the downpipe first cause I thought the wastegates would be next to the turbo and dump into the downpipe. I could always recirc them later but I should have installed the gates right away and built off that

 

[Bitter]

Something something hindsight is 20/20. There's no directions for this custom shit so while it may look like it's all just so perfect when we're done it's really a lot of 'shit that's not gonna work' that hardly anyone gets to see.

 

[Murkrow]

Well it's been a busy week and aside from reinstalling the oil catch can it's all done and ready to drive! Here are the things I finished:

• shorten downpipe (a little close to rear gate hat/diaphragm)
• shorten upper ic pipe and weld bov fitting
• fix threads on coolant overflow for drain fitting
• make bracket for throttle cable
• make heat shields near brake master, distributor, heater core lines, and fuel lines/high pressure ps line
• build wastegate dump tubes

I started by modifying the downpipe since so many other surrounding parts were effected by it's position. Initially the 45 degree bend of the downpipe sat about 1/4" above the rear wastegate and now it's 1.5" in front of it. I'm very happy with the consistency and look of my welds.

Then I went on to building the wastegate dump tubes. I reused pieces of the dump tube from a previous turbo kit to save time (making pie cuts) and money (ordering new pipe and welding everything).

Next it was time to button everything up. I made several heat shields around the downpipe in critical areas, reinstalled the front bumper and headlights, reinstalled the plenum and ic piping, plumbed the air line for the bov, etc.

 

[Bitter]

For sure gonna need a heat shield between the radiator upper hose and that front exhaust manifold. Just something as simple as flat sheet metal to block the radiated heat will make a large difference. air gap heat shields are still the best and easiest way to insulate from heat for things like that, I know it's a silicone hose but dang that's a hot area.

 

[GTSDriver2003]

That is one beautiful engine bay. What kind of throttle body are you using? I like it. Any recommendations other than the stock one for 6G72?

 

[Murkrow]

For sure gonna need a heat shield between the radiator upper hose and that front exhaust manifold. Just something as simple as flat sheet metal to block the radiated heat will make a large difference. air gap heat shields are still the best and easiest way to insulate from heat for things like that, I know it's a silicone hose but dang that's a hot area.

The picture makes the hose look much closer than it is. There's probably 6" between the manifold and hose. I do plan to make a shield off the head though.

That is one beautiful engine bay. What kind of throttle body are you using? I like it. Any recommendations other than the stock one for 6G72?

Thank you. It's an S90 70mm throttle body for the Evo 8. It wouldn't line up correctly with the 72 intake. However you can swap to the 3.8nm intake and then use the S90 throttle body. You'll have to make a custom cable bracket, use the Evo 8 TPS sensor (and repin the plug for the TPS), and weld the EGR pipe off the rear exhaust manifold shut (since it won't line up with the 3.8nm intake.

 

[Bitter]

It sure does look closer. 6 inches is fine if you're just driving, probably less fine doing back to back dyno runs lol.

Sent from my SM-G892U using Tapatalk

 

[Murkrow]

It sure does look closer. 6 inches is fine if you're just driving, probably less fine doing back to back dyno runs lol.

Sent from my SM-G892U using Tapatalk

I measured to make sure and it's a little less than 5 inches but a heat shield will definitely be made over the winter. At idle I see 208 on my AEM ECT gauge and 222 through EvoScan so I'm thinking the temp calculation in EvoScan is wrong. While cruising the car consistently sits around 184 on the AEM which is much cooler than it ever has. This is without wrapping any piping or installing the turbo blanket. The downpipe and dump tubes may be wrapped at some point.

And apparently it's supposed to snow 2-4 inches tomorrow I drove the car for less than a week! I was able to align it and fix idle/cruising afrs and that's about it.

 

[mysticj]

Have you solve you coolant/overheating issue?

 

[Murkrow]

Have you solve you coolant/overheating issue?

I haven't pushed the car in high boost to know if it will overheat and it looks like I won't get the chance until next year. I'm definitely hoping it's resolved.

 

[Bitter]

Oh I hate those season finale cliff hanger episodes!

 

[Gotti]

The Best 3G Ever

 

[Murkrow]

Oh I hate those season finale cliff hanger episodes!

sorry! We have a couple warmer days coming up and the car may see the road again for some tuning

The Best 3G Ever

Thank you that's an over statement but I appreciate the kind words

I've decided to switch back to just the stock auto ecu (no dual ecu setup) and will be tuning it like this for now. There's a few benefits and drawbacks to doing this.

The benefits are the ability to connect to the auto ecu via OBD2 (instead of the manual ecu in the dual ecu setup) to be able to adjust trans tables, no random shudder/random misfire at idle & cruising caused by big maps (very annoying), no alternator charging issues from the dual ecu setup (alternator outputting 13.9V rather than 14.3v), etc.

Really the only drawback is not having big maps for the expanded timing tables. This can be worked around by adjusting the load scaling for the timing table. With big maps I had the load scaling increase every 15% and with the original tables it's every 30%. This means the auto ecu does more extrapolating to determine the timing. An example is if I'm in between two defined load increments (lets say 45%), the ecu will take the timing values at 30% (lets say 18 degrees) and 60% (lets say 16 degrees) for the given rpm and average them (17 degrees). The smaller timing table should be easier to view. I also was able to create a definition file for my auto ecu that has all the big maps tables defined along with dozens of other auto trans, knock, alternator, and fan tables. Lastly I added the 2 byte load, airflow, and rpm values into the rom to read above 159%, 1600hz, and 7900rpms respectively (although I only rev to 7500). I'm really hoping I can make some progress tuning.

Another small update is that I decided to add heated seat elements to my knockoff Bride seats. I currently have the heater core lines capped because of how close the exhaust runs to them and mid 30 degree days are a little chilly. I picked up a set of universal heated seat elements from Amazon that came with enough parts for 2 seats and also have the switches, premade harnesses, and a relay. Each seat took under 30 minutes to complete install. Here's a few pics from the process... my dog decided to give a helping hand!

All back together and testing in my living room while watching tv

Hopefully some more updates will follow. Stay tuned

 

[Bitter]

I had the same kit for my Mazda I bought years ago and never installed, lost them somewhere along the way. I should do that some weekend this fall, it would make the car a lot more palatable in the winter months until I replace it.

Also yeah, a few OK days left in the year. Tomorrow it's going out into the city, hate driving in the city, but it's evidently a mandatory date with her so I'm going to torture her in the Celica (she's not fond of it). Supposed to be nice the following weekend I think as well. PLANS CANCELED, SHE HAD A COLD. Next weekend is even nicer, we'll go celebrate National Bison day.

 

[Murkrow]

MN sure has some odd weather. Last time I posted we dipped down to the mid 20s and 3 days later we were back up to high 70s! It only lasted a week but was great to put some more miles on the car and get some tuning done. It's up to 18psi and with Mivec engaged on these custom cams it flies through the upper rpm range. I can't wait to see how much it wakes up adding another 12psi!

I made an exciting discovery with the auto trans. I thought the shifting issues were caused by my dual ecu setup and extreme loads on the trans. I also noticed while cruising the converter had no lockup while keeping a steady rpm. If I pushed the gas pedal enough to engage lockup the car would accelerate and if I eased up on the gas pedal the lockup would disengage causing the rpms to momentarily spike and jerk the car. Turns out the TPS sensor % was too low cause of Silvertune insisting it be 12.5-13.3%. A small bump and it shifts quick and converter lockup is spot on. Something so simple has been the root of all my trans related issues! Go figure next task is finding all trans related tables in the ecu and messing with lockup during wide open throttle for some crazy trap speeds!

Having my downpipe end at the firewall made having a conversation while driving impossible. I added a few small bends and a bullet muffler after it to quiet it down significantly. Since I have a vband before the bends I can change it later if needed. To save weight I'll more than likely use thinwall aluminum piping after the bullet muffler to the rear of the car. I have all winter to think about it

Last time I washed my car was September 2019 so it needed some TLC. I figured a good wash before it's stored again was a good idea. I love the way it looks and it's been a short but sweet year with it. Til next year....

 

[Bitter]

Some seasonal closure is a wonderful thing indeed.
Why lockup at full throttle? Won't that smoke the TCC clutch? (don't know if you've ever seen a TCC cut open, that lockup clutch is TINY!)

 

[Murkrow]

Some seasonal closure is a wonderful thing indeed.
Why lockup at full throttle? Won't that smoke the TCC clutch? (don't know if you've ever seen a TCC cut open, that lockup clutch is TINY!)

My converter has twin disc lockup clutches rated for 600hp and if I can utilize them after peak torque then I'll gain a lot of mph in each gear.

 

[Cooldude01]

Very nice..
How did you fit that intercooler with the OEM bumper?
Was there any modification needed for that?

 

[Murkrow]

Very nice..
How did you fit that intercooler with the OEM bumper?
Was there any modification needed for that?

Yes the crash bar had to be removed and several inches of plastic were cut out of the bumper. This intercooler is 4.5" deep and extends above and below the bumper opening.

 

[Bitter]

My converter has twin disc lockup clutches rated for 600hp and if I can utilize them after peak torque then I'll gain a lot of mph in each gear.

Now that's cool.