[6G75_MIVEC(VR38 KILLER)]

Yes I can already see 150 with converter lock up in 3rd. If I plan to use 4th I can lower boost to wastegate pressure so the carrier doesn't explode again

What will be the estimated trap speed if the converter is locked up in 4th gear on 1/4 mile?

 

[Murkrow]

Now that's cool.

I plan to swap in my higher stall speed converter over the winter. I think the extra 400rpms will help me off the line quite a bit.

What will be the estimated trap speed if the converter is locked up in 4th gear on 1/4 mile?

I'll never be able to push 4th gear, but 3rd gear with lockup would potentially go to 154mph. Good enough for mid to low 9s!

 

[6G75_MIVEC(VR38 KILLER)]

I plan to swap in my higher stall speed converter over the winter. I think the extra 400rpms will help me off the line quite a bit.


I'll never be able to push 4th gear, but 3rd gear with lockup would potentially go to 154mph. Good enough for mid to low 9s!

Is that on street tires or slicks?

 

[Murkrow]

Is that on street tires or slicks?

Street tires. I don't run slicks

 

[Murkrow]

I've had a couple growing oil leaks ever since I had the bottom end apart and decided to finally tackle them. The leak by the oil filter appears to be my turbo oil feed and the other leak was near the rear main seal. After putting new thread tape on the oil feed fitting I decided to drop the oil pan to investigate the other leak. My exhaust doesn't run under the pan which made it a bit easier to access everything. First I started by removing the starter. I had to remove the AC compressor bracket as well (only there for the 75 alternator to bolt to). Next was removing the dipstick tube and disconnecting the turbo oil feed and return lines. After removing the oil pan bolts it took several huge strikes with a dead blow hammer to break it loose... Mitsubishi 3 bond rtv is no joke! This pic shows the pan didn't make contact with the rear main cap since it has no dried rtv on it. It also gives you a look at my AWD drivetrain, the oil pick up I modified, the forged internals of the short block, and the exhaust I'm slowly building

The rtv that was supposed to contact the rear cap is still textured (never squished flat) and has oil pooled on it.

The underside of my car will take some serious degreasing... it looks like the BP oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico I'm actually upset I didn't immediately fix it. So in hopes that I won't have to do this all again, I spent lots of time brake cleaning the block and pan before caking on oil-resistant black rtv rather than spreading a thin layer of 3 bond. I'm also waiting 24hrs before adding any oil to make sure it has time to fully dry.

My next project will be dissecting the valve body to find and open up the restrictor for the 2nd gear clutch pack along with installing a higher rate spring for the accumulator. I think this will provide substantially more pressure to 2nd without having to bump up overall line pressure and alleviate the violent shudder under load. Not sure if I'll have the chance to test any changes til spring though. Stay tuned.

 

[Bitter]

Something something well oiled machine lol. Just be careful about blobs getting squeezed out into the oil pan, it's ok to go thinner where less is needed and then thicker where the gaps are wider.

 

[Murkrow]

Something something well oiled machine lol. Just be careful about blobs getting squeezed out into the oil pan, it's ok to go thinner where less is needed and then thicker where the gaps are wider.

I'm assuming my issue was due to the oil pan dowels binding in the block. I verified the pan fully seated this time around. When I removed the converter access window in the pan and ran my finger along the rear cap I could feel a small amount of rtv protruding. I took it for a test drive and the leaks are nonexistent

 

[Bitter]

Awesome! Now your auto rust protection system is disabled.

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[Murkrow]

Awesome! Now your auto rust protection system is disabled.

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I just hope it doesn't peel the undercoating I'm hoping I can do some more test driving while these 40+ degree days last and bump up the trans duty cycles. I'm also plumbing the AEM TruBoost to both wastegates to see if one solenoid can control both

I decided to replace the catback exhaust on my tow rig, a 400k mile 04 Nissan Armada, since the muffler was nearly split in half. Every single bolt and nut was rust welded together so it's been an absolute joy to take apart. I went with a cheap Nissan Titan ss 3" catback and had to shorten/tweak it in several spots to make it fit. The Titan uses a solid rear diff where the Armada has an independent rear suspension with a large subframe which is where the majority of the piping differences are. I'll be sure to snap some pics when it's all said and done!

 

[Murkrow]

This is the exhaust I installed on my Armada. It doesn't show the tweaks I had to make around the hump for the rear axle but I'm happy with the end result and it sounds great

One of my goals after switching to this bigger turbo has been combating lag for a better launch and a wider power band. With my current tune I was able to foot stall (holding brake and gas) to 1.5psi of boost which is not great. The time between 1.5psi up to peak boost dramatically hurt my 60ft. I found a drop in compressor wheel made by KC turbo that looked promising and was much cheaper than buying a smaller, faster responding turbo. It has many benefits like extended tips, a "deep superback" (you might have to google it), offset blades for more area instead of perpendicular blades, and it's noticeably lighter. The turbo now builds about 3.5psi with the foot stall test and a little bit of toying with the timing will get it the rest of the way!

After going to 2 wastegates I needed to either run 2 boost solenoids or have 1 solenoid control both. I chose the second option and picked up some push to connect line and fittings to simplify everything. They also gave the engine bay a nice accent color. I also used the push to connect line for my blow off valve and will more than likely do the same for my fuel pressure regulator line.

I'll be street tuning the car today and then it goes back into hibernation

 

[Murkrow]

 

[Bitter]

I'm not a huge fan of those push connect fittings but I know there's a few OEMs that use them on vehicles so they can't be that bad. Just watch the heat rating on the plastic tubing and fittings, generally tubing like that gets soft when hot and while it won't fail it will squish away from the claw and o-ring seal on the push fittings. I've ran into that causing vacuum leaks on some older Land Rovers...the FreeLander....shudders.

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[buddd]

Nice progress! Looking good.

I agree on the RTV and the plastic tubing issues raised above. A small bead (2-3mm) of RTV is all that is usually needed. No need to cover the entire flange. You really don't want gobs breaking off and blocking your oil pump screen.

Also, having used that tubing a lot in an industrial setting, it gets very soft when it gets hot. Like Bitter said, it'll just blow out of the fitting under pressure, especially if the circuit sees repeated pressure cycling during operation. As it is the tubing can work itself out of the fitting under pressure cycling at room temp, heat just makes it worse.

Cool to see your progress! Keep it up!

 

[Murkrow]

Nice progress! Looking good.

I agree on the RTV and the plastic tubing issues raised above. A small bead (2-3mm) of RTV is all that is usually needed. No need to cover the entire flange. You really don't want gobs breaking off and blocking your oil pump screen.

Also, having used that tubing a lot in an industrial setting, it gets very soft when it gets hot. Like Bitter said, it'll just blow out of the fitting under pressure, especially if the circuit sees repeated pressure cycling during operation. As it is the tubing can work itself out of the fitting under pressure cycling at room temp, heat just makes it worse.

Cool to see your progress! Keep it up!

Thanks! Time will tell

I've had the Wings West rear lip sitting on my garage floor and was tired of looking at it so it's installed! The side skirts might be installed soon if I feel ambitious

EDIT: I also replaced the Mitsu emblem with a chrome one after taking this picture. Super happy with the way the car looks.

 

[Bitter]

You know, just because we both raised the issue it's going to be 100% fine.

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[Murkrow]

You know, just because we both raised the issue it's going to be 100% fine.

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I'm not understanding if this is sarcasm. Unfortunately it'll be nearly 4 months before anyone finds out the durability of the air lines.

 

[Bitter]

I more meant that just because we think it could be a problem it probably won't be,but had we said nothing then it would have been. Cars seem to understand reverse psychology sometimes.

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[Murkrow]

Couple small updates. I ordered a triple gauge clock pod through Ortiz Customs several weeks back and it finally came in. There were some minor mods to the dash that were needed for fitment. The 3 gauges (trans temp, fuel pres, and air temp) that were above my single din radio (before I swapped to a double din radio) are now in the clock pod. Was the pod made perfect? No but it's better than I could have built and I wouldn't have been comfortable racing at the track without those extra gauges!

Last month I replaced the compressor wheel to broaden the power curve in the lower rpm range and decrease spool time. Another route to decreasing spool time was decreasing the turbine a/r size, the turbine wheel size, or a combo of both. The BW S300 turbos have very few options but I managed to find a stainless steel .70 a/r housing to replace my .82 a/r housing while keeping the 73mm turbine wheel. I believe this can give the responsiveness of a small turbo while keeping the majority of the top end flow (I won't know til the spring unfortunately). The new housing also won't corrode and retains heat better. If the housing caps my power then it can be swapped prior to the dyno, but for all street and track driving/racing this housing will be used.

When I originally welded the vband flanges to the merge pipe I attempted to make another pass over those welds to make them more "visually appealing". I made the mistake of not clamping the flanges together and they warped enough to cause a small leak on the front bank. Since I'm working to decrease spool time, replacing the flanges was a must. The vband flanges I found on Amazon were quite a bit thicker and the clamp is much heavier duty. They welded great and all warping/misalignment is gone. I'm beyond excited for this season of racing!

 

[Murkrow]

There hasn't been many changes on the racecar lately. I sold the Evo navigation radio and bought an android navigation radio that I'm in the process of installing. My ipod doesn't connect to it and there's no dvd player unfortunately but it has just about every other feature I wanted. The radio bezel will need to be replaced since I cut it to fit the Evo radio. I'll post a pic when it's all done.

My exhaust ended about a foot after the firewall. I was reluctant to add a catback because of the extra weight but the exhaust fumes at idle are too much. Since the tunnel is taken up by the driveshaft the exhaust has to tightly hug the floor of the car. I mated a 3" aluminum vband flange to a stainless steel vband flange and used thin wall aluminum pipe to save weight. So far it extends back to the gas tank area and in a few months I can put it on a lift and run it to the rear bumper. I found some aluminum mufflers and oval tubing that I'll eventually be switching to for ground clearance and weight savings

The adjustment band on my Amazon welding helmet broke and it already had issues with auto dimming so it was time to get a new one. I read a lot of reviews and landed on the ESAB Sentinel A50. It looks and feels great so far!

Since I've been working on other people's car and don't have much to report on, here's my dog in her chicken costume

Stay tuned!

 

[Bitter]

Oval exhaust pipe a no-go?

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