I've had a couple growing oil leaks ever since I had the bottom end apart and decided to finally tackle them. The leak by the oil filter appears to be my turbo oil feed and the other leak was near the rear main seal. After putting new thread tape on the oil feed fitting I decided to drop the oil pan to investigate the other leak. My exhaust doesn't run under the pan which made it a bit easier to access everything. First I started by removing the starter. I had to remove the AC compressor bracket as well (only there for the 75 alternator to bolt to). Next was removing the dipstick tube and disconnecting the turbo oil feed and return lines. After removing the oil pan bolts it took several huge strikes with a dead blow hammer to break it loose... Mitsubishi 3 bond rtv is no joke! This pic shows the pan didn't make contact with the rear main cap since it has no dried rtv on it. It also gives you a look at my AWD drivetrain, the oil pick up I modified, the forged internals of the short block, and the exhaust I'm slowly building
The rtv that was supposed to contact the rear cap is still textured (never squished flat) and has oil pooled on it.
The underside of my car will take some serious degreasing... it looks like the BP oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico

I'm actually upset I didn't immediately fix it. So in hopes that I won't have to do this all again, I spent lots of time brake cleaning the block and pan before caking on oil-resistant black rtv rather than spreading a thin layer of 3 bond. I'm also waiting 24hrs before adding any oil to make sure it has time to fully dry.
My next project will be dissecting the valve body to find and open up the restrictor for the 2nd gear clutch pack along with installing a higher rate spring for the accumulator. I think this will provide substantially more pressure to 2nd without having to bump up overall line pressure and alleviate the violent shudder under load. Not sure if I'll have the chance to test any changes til spring though. Stay tuned.