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Also, has anyone take the allen bolts out of the GTS plenum in attempt to open it up to clean? This looks to be the best way but, I have read these intakes are non-serviceable which tells me if I take it apart I could be asking for a new boat anchor.
The screws for the butterflies sometimes come loose and are hard to find making it "unserviceable". The
 

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Discussion Starter #22
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The screws for the butterflies sometimes come loose and are hard to find making it "unserviceable". The
Thanks, I just disassembled the plenum. All the screws in the butterflies looks good. I washed the half of the plenum in some coil cleaner for HVAC coils. It got all the grease and dirt off but, took some of the shine off from polishing. This thing looks to be too much of a pain in the ass to polish. My plan now is to let it soak in dish detergent to loosen some of this oil and try to scrub with a nylon brush. This weekend I am going to paint the butterfly section red (close to a Mistu red to the best I can find) and the runner section silver.
 

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So after soaking all day, using degreaser just cheap carb cleaner seems to working just fine. I ordered this and the clear coat to go with it. The runner section will be painted silver. I have the high temp silver for the exhaust manifolds that I am considering using with clear coat. The base finish of the exhaust manifolds came out slightly on the mat side. I want the intake to be more gloss.
 

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Well after 7 CANS of carb cleaner I finally got the upper plenum clean. Massive amounts of carbon and sticky oil. I have decided (at least for the time being) to paint the complete upper plenum the anodized red. Will paint the front valve cover anodized silver. All will be clear coated.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
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GTS upper plenum has had the hell cleaned out of it, painted with anodized silver paint with clear coat and reassembled. I used the grey gasket maker same as specified for the oil pan. I am assuming being Mitsu says this part is "unserviceable" that they didn't see the need in calling out a sealant for the two halves. When I disassembled it, there was what I am guessing grey gasket maker. I was going to paint the throttle body section a candy anodized red, but I think i am going to save that for the valve cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Ok, so the front valve cover on my donor engine is dented so I am doing to wire brush a few areas on my old one and paint the candy red. Does anyone know where to get this grommet for the PCV? I cannot find any listing for it.
 

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So I wire brushed my valve cover to get some of the surface rust off and painted the anodized silver base when i noticed several spots were bubbling up. Obviously I did not clean as good as I thought. The whole thing looks bad so its now soaking in Aircraft stripper. I also wire brushed my battery tray and painted. Mine looks like it was holding water in the lower section causing rust. Is this common on our cars?
 

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So I wire brushed my valve cover to get some of the surface rust off and painted the anodized silver base when i noticed several spots were bubbling up. Obviously I did not clean as good as I thought. The whole thing looks bad so its now soaking in Aircraft stripper. I also wire brushed my battery tray and painted. Mine looks like it was holding water in the lower section causing rust. Is this common on our cars?
Mine was bad as well. Im not sure if its holding water, or if if the battery sitting on it rusted it. I bead blasted mine,base coated it in Zinc primer powdercoat, and finished it with semi gloss black. I also cut a piece of rubber for the battery to sit on to separate the two. I coated the battery tray in my Suburban but didnt use zinc primer and the rust came back, so I think it has something to do with the battery.
 

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Mine was bad as well. Im not sure if its holding water, or if if the battery sitting on it rusted it. I bead blasted mine,base coated it in Zinc primer powdercoat, and finished it with semi gloss black. I also cut a piece of rubber for the battery to sit on to separate the two. I coated the battery tray in my Suburban but didnt use zinc primer and the rust came back, so I think it has something to do with the battery.
I wire brushed and painted with rust inhibiting paint. I wire brushed, primed and undercoated my wheel wells when I did my brakes recently. I think i will undercoat the battery tray also. It is rubberized.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
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Undercoated the battery tray completely and I can say I am satisfied with it. After throughly cleaning and scraping after spraying the valve cover with paint stripper, I finally got it clean enough to my standard. I sprayed one coat of the anodized silver and I will be damned, I have 2 runs in the paint and on the back side of the head, the paint is starting to fisheye. I decided to leave it alone until tomorrow and see what happens after it cure. The paint is very thin and not like regular spray paint. This is the cover stripped to the bare steel.
 

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Just to be safe, I'd rough it up with some coarse scotch bright or some fine sandpaper. Then, I'd wipe it down with some clean solvent and rags and apply a primer. Then, I'd paint using multiple light coats. Not sure what your process is right now, but I feel like you can't go wrong with the above.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Just to be safe, I'd rough it up with some coarse scotch bright or some fine sandpaper. Then, I'd wipe it down with some clean solvent and rags and apply a primer. Then, I'd paint using multiple light coats. Not sure what your process is right now, but I feel like you can't go wrong with the above.
Thanks. The paint is sticking this time but, this paint is more like a dye than a paint. It runs very easy especially for spray paint. I think its been user error. Will apply the candy red later today and post pictures. On an unrelated topic, when I pulled my battery tray this weekend, I notice my clutch slave cylinder and hydraulic line were corroded and the rubber looked horrible. Went ahead and ordered new from Rock Auto. My whole clutch system will be new with exception to the master cylinder and I do not have any intention of replacing it until it fails.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Slow weekend, I installed these Energy shifter bushings I have had laying around for a while but, I am confused if I did it correctly. Per the youtube video, is how I did it. I installed a with the larger piece from the bottom but, after putting the bolts back it did not look right.
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I just installed mine..
The flat end should be on top when you mate them together.. you will definitely see the huge different.. the shifting is more precise.. best $10 upgrade..
 
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I just installed mine..
The flat end should be on top when you mate them together.. you will definitely see the huge different.. the shifting is more precise.. best $10 upgrade..
So opposite of what is shown in the pictures? I reinstalled after I did what is shown because it didn't look right.
 

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You were looking at instruction for 2g.. try this link and at10:28 you should see what it looks like...
 
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You were looking at instruction for 2g.. try this link and at10:28 you should see what it looks like...
Thanks for the link! I must have missed that one in my search. Yes, I knew the video was for a 2G but, thr concept is the same. This is how I installed mine. I feel better about it now. My old ones were worn. I am thinking this may have been my problem when shifting to second gear. Before I took the old ones out, the whole assembly would move. Its firmly planted now.
 
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