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Discussion Starter · #201 ·
Took a few minutes today and messed with some head unit settings on the sub channel finally. 120hz LPF set and reversed phase. Not sure if I like the reversed phase as it seems to be a little distracting from the front but the other hand it makes it sound like theres actually a sub in the trunk (there isn't one). The LPF seems to clean up the sound a good deal, I think I'll end up setting the HU back to through and set the LPF on the amp around 150hz since 120hz sounds a touch low. I still need to actually set my gains with the fluke meter though, maybe tomorrow.
 

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It's been four years, and in all honestly I can't believe how much work you've put into it. I thought surely by now you would have sold it or the trans would have grenaded itself. Keeping old cars running is becoming a lost art, but you give me hope!
 

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Discussion Starter · #203 ·
Haha I haven't done all that much to it. It's still got some issues that need to be resolved though, currently it's pulling right under hard braking and the right rear drum is getting hotter than the left but it's not tight so I think the left side is slacking compared to the right side, the adjuster may have been pushed too far inward when I put the drum on. I'll mess with it tomorrow, it's easy to look at with hand tools. I need to grind the drums down and paint them black again, they're looking rusty behind the new wheels. Front tire balance is a little off, got a shake at 75-80mph only. Yes, it'll do 80. :lol:

Car audio is also being dialed in as well, working on getting a little more bass below 50hz on the 6x9's in the rear deck, looks like IB is causing them to roll off but I can't run them any other way. I'll figure out some way to make it work well enough, I just miss my 40hz and below. Overall it's a pretty clean sounding system with nice punch though, considering how little I spent compared to other audio builds I see people undertaking.

I'm still slacking on the headlight retro version 2.0, mounting them is a pain due to how the bowl is a little tilted in the housing so I need to grind things out and probably just epoxy them to the bowls, but if I'm going to that trouble I'm thinking I should just run some OEM quality projectors. I don't know, it's such a pain that I don't even feel like working on it and it's sat on the work bench for months without me touching it.

I still need to replace the fuel tank too, might get around to that next week as we're slow at the shop.
 

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Took a few minutes today and messed with some head unit settings on the sub channel finally. 120hz LPF set and reversed phase. Not sure if I like the reversed phase as it seems to be a little distracting from the front but the other hand it makes it sound like theres actually a sub in the trunk (there isn't one). The LPF seems to clean up the sound a good deal, I think I'll end up setting the HU back to through and set the LPF on the amp around 150hz since 120hz sounds a touch low. I still need to actually set my gains with the fluke meter though, maybe tomorrow.
I haven't kept up, what size(s) sub / front speakers do you have? 120Hz sounds really high.

Also FWIW and I'm sure you already know, using equipment to set gains is a start but you really have to listen to a lot of music to get it right. For thought, here's how I did my 1-Series w/ the new amp & sub:

* Turned the gains all the way down. Played enough music to get an idea if it was the sub or fronts that needed some gain / more volume. Turns out it was the sub that needed more than the fronts.
* Cut the sub signal and ran fronts only (no gain). Played a huge amount of bass heavy music and found the low frequency cut-off for the fronts that kept them from distorting at max volume.
* Restored the sub. Set the sub's crossover frequency for it to the same as the fronts, and put the sub gain about to what sounded right, not too high, not too low. Messed with the crossover frequency a bit up and down to get it to a point where it didn't sound like it overlapped too much w/ the fronts (no peaky bass notes at the crossover point).
* Adjusted the sub gain again.

I think it turned out perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #205 ·
rears are tang band 6x9 driven off a jl 300/2 v1 and fronts are last model kappa 5x7 coax driven off a pioneer gm 5500-t with sound coming from a kdc-x689. all wired with 6ga ground and power cable and 16ga speaker cable. I'm thinking of swapping the 6x9's though, I don't think I'm really happy with their performance IB as sub replacements, they don't get as low as I had hoped they would and their sensitivity isn't so great. I'm not sure yet, there's still some work to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #207 ·
I decided I wanted a light under the hood because that's nice to have for like checking fluids and stuff right? So I bought a used OEM Ford underhood light like what comes on a Crown Vic which has a little 921 bulb on it. It puts a little light on the engine but it's pretty dim and yellow and I can't see to much like the hole to put the dipstick back into or the coolant in the radiator. I tried a few of the various LED's I have on hand, some are better, some are worse, one was the least worst and got better with some aluminum tape behind it to bounce more light to the engine area...but I still can't see the damn hole where the dipstick goes!

So I bought a $3.00 shipped pair of cold white COB LED's that run at 12V OK enough to use right off the battery, but they get hot and really benefit from a little heat sinking, so I got some 1/2 by 3/4 by 1/16th thick aluminum angle and stuck that up to stick the LED to for heat sink and to help shield it from the elements some, I'll also pot the edges and solder points with some nice glue. I'll bond the LED to the aluminum with some thermal epoxy and stick it to the hood with some kind of mounting tape.


But I think I may have over did it. This is just everything stuck up with some HVAC putty to hold it to check it out....









 

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Discussion Starter · #211 ·
tilt switch that's inside an OEM ford underhood switch is what I will be using, but i forgot the mini fuse holder that I need at work and it'll take the thermal epoxy and potting glue a few days to cure fully anyway, I'm in no hurry.
 

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I can't blame him for blasting the radio, I did the same when I was a porter lol. But those shit parking skills are inexcusable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #217 ·
Oh no, that's the volume I left the radio at :lol: I always blast Galaktikon.
He caught it with only a tire thankfully, I checked the car for scuffs on that corner and found none, but I have two mysterious marks on the right rear quarter but I didn't do a walk around when I picked it up so those could have happened back at work cause I parked near where people were getting in/out of cars with stuff. Not worried about it.


Dashcam is a https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U0OJMYG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3BUZK5TSP5YDB

Pretty good video and audio quality, price isn't horrendous, works well, and has regular firmware updates. DO GET THE POLARIZING FILTER. It makes a massive difference in the sun with road and dash glare.
 

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Discussion Starter · #218 ·
I went to change the air filter in the Mazda because the rubber seal around it was bad. Found some old droppings and urine in the bottom of the air box. Pulled it, found chicken wing bones and more urine/feces under it. Put the car out, soaked it with cleaner, soaked the AC condenser and radiator with cleaner, let it all sit, scrubbed the top of the trans and soaked it a few more times, rinsed it all till clean and no more purple/red response from the urine with the cleaner, washed the air box out the same, added better water drain holes, ran it without filter/box till the fans came on to dry some stuff up, pulled it in, gotta put it back together now. I L O V E my underhood light. I could not have seen that or done the cleaning at night without it.


Got a nice MANN filter on close out from RockAuto for like...pffft nothing. I'll go put it back together later on, not the first time I've had mouse issues but now that it's cleaned up and garaged on the regular should be the last of it. It's been sitting out the past month almost while I worked on my aunties 91 Capri turbo...but this mouse stuff was older than that, likely left overs from when I lived at the apartment and parked by the dumpster 2 years ago.





A while back I bought a single 6 Osram LED spot pod to tinker with, not so bad output but nowhere near the claimed 30W output. I finally boosted it by altering the sense resistor for the driver from 8W total current consumption to 23W total consumption with a peak temp at 70F ambient and no air flow of 140F which is acceptable and there's little visible droop in output as it heats up. It seems fairly stable. I bought a 2nd one just today to do the same boost to, I intend to swap them in place of the cosmetic yellow fogs and wire them as high beam assist/driving lights that'll come on automatic with high beams but will still have a disable switch so I can manually elect to not have them on with high beams.

Which brings me to the other recent event, the 15 year old foglight wiring I installed when I was about 16 went up in smoke, I think something shorted inside the pass side fog light as it seems to have burnt from there upward but didn't get out from in front of the radiator and luckily I was standing still idling when it happened. For whatever reason the 20A fuse just melted it's case but didn't blow, it could have been one of those recalled Chinese imposter fuses that looks like a fuse but doesn't act like one. It came with the cheap fogs a long time ago, whatever, no true harm done to the car so it's OK. I'll rewire it all when I swap in the spot pods to see if they can be useful down that low or not. Hopefully the can be, they're a very tight spot beam so fingers are crossed. If they aren't useful then I'll repair the yellow halogen fog lights if possible and reinstall those for winter and save up pennies for some Hella MicroDE projector fogs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #219 ·
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