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Racing with a HANS for me was weird and took some time to get use. It is a really good investment though. Have you tried driving with it already?
 

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Road America should be a good track for the 3g. We race our stratus their a few times and it did really good. Our first time out there we lost our brakes though. Pushed the limits of the stock single piston caliper and had a failure in a 14hr race. After that incident we swapped to brembos
 

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I love the trackspec hood vents expensive but the quality is good, and yeah it’s on a stock hood. Not to sure about the water cause I haven’t driven in the rain when it’s been down pouring but In light rain it’s been good.




I’m excited and kinda scared at the same time for road America I’m glad I at least got front brembos it’s hard to find rears for sale. When I would run at TNiA last year I would get brake fade from my stock brakes so I upgraded right away. I just got my hawk DTC-60 brake pads, and my RT660s along with Megan racing rear control arms and trailing arms. Hoping to have everything done so I can get it aligned and tires put on.
You should be good. Get some high temp brake fluid and SEND IT
 

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Appreciate it. People will always dog on FWD cars its just a thing. If you watch any of the GLTC races some of the top drivers are driving FWD cars granted they are Hondas but they are still in the top 5. An yes set up for a FWD car is pretty much totally opposite of what you want for a RWD car. For a FWD car you want it to over steer a bit going into corners so you can get the car to rotate scary feeling when going at high speeds, so essentially you are loosing a bit of grip in the rear. Lots of people will actually disconnect the rear sway bar depending on the track you are at and you will see them get some 3 wheel motion when turning into corners.
Those GLTC Hondas are amazing. I have actually talked with those drivers and plan on applying some of their build ideas to the 3g
 

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Ill be looking at getting a LSD at some point. Nothing wrong with working on the suspension for street use, you want a certain feel when driving it daily I totally get that. has to have comfort if im going to be drive it a lot. Unfortunately for my wife she wont get the chance to drive my car since it now has a fixed race seat, she wouldn't be able to touch the pedals. with your issues in the rear, does your car want to jump to one side when you hit a bump, I use to have a lot of bump steer in the rear when I was on KYB AGXs with H&R springs always scared me when it would do that. Ever since I went to coilovers had K-sports before now on BC racing I haven't had that problem. The problem I have now is that the rear end feels floaty when at 100+ MPH. At BIR people go flat out at turn 2 110+mph I just don't have the confidence in me to go flat out. might think of getting a 9Liveracing wing.
I would definitely get a LSD if you can that was a big game changer in my car. Cornering is more predictable
 

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Sucky part is trying to find one manufacturers don’t make them as abundant as they use to, also you wouldn’t happen to know the OEM part number to the engine harness, I found a lot of my wiring is starting to crack and expose wire really close to the connectors. I would repin everything but I don’t know what pins are what for each sensor.
contact ostarmotorsports. They can get wavetrac and quaife lsd. They may have some in stock
 

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Damn thats awesome to have Tom drive the 3g eclipse. I really wish my team could get a professional to drive our endurance cars and show us a thing or 2. I saw a lot of the crashes from gridlife pop up on my social media. I was really shocked the Kutil wrecked as well
 

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I am at 2700lbs with the full cage and still stock windshield and rear glass. I could probably drop another 100lbs with going to an lexan glass and removing so odds and ends. Our champcar on the other hand is under 2500lbs with a full cage. We actually removed everything possible then had a chassis shop come behind us and remove more before adding the cage
 

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thats awesome and your still on stock ignition. Some of us had issues with the oem ignition not cooperating with standalones. I am going to go this route as well once i get everything settled. boomslang harness and all
 

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honestly do not buy the boomslang harness it’s a waste of 600 bucks i bought it cause no one had the pin outs or was willing to give them out but I am. I have the pin outs for everything it’s super simple to do, I have a booklet for them just lmk and I can send you a copy of them
Damn that sucks. I built my harness for my AEM back in the day but i was lookin for an easy option but I guess ill build another one when I am ready.
 

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This is the problem…. Just because these are a new breed of builders it’s ok to just be dicks when asking for help. And technically haltech is a Australian brand company they have been more than willing to help with the process, I’ve actually never know any Australian to keep one in the dark when asked for help. People just with hold info because they think they have something special that is worth money. Plus haltech has offices in the US that you can contact. I could be one of those guys and with hold info because I’m one of the “few” that had done this with the platform which I would never do but. To each they own it dosent justify being a dick. I’ve contacted several people that are just plane rude and shot me down becuase of what I wanted to do or reasonings for why I didn’t take it a different route example ecu flash is all you need which I don’t believe in one bit but again that’s just me and what I see my car as. This is the reasons why this forum has died so much. Lots of toxic people. And including me I’ve left and only lurked for the past x number of years.
you definitely nailed it with that statement. Never understood the big secret with these cars cause I would definitely share anything that I know. Their are still some guys though that I can depend on for information or just advice
 

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not a bad starting weight especially with interior and stereo still in there. I got mine down to 2700 without me in it and I know I can get at least another 100lbs or so out of it and that's with a full cage
 

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No just the rear are 14k I’m keeping the fronts at 10k trying to get the car to rotate faster which I’m scared this will change the whole dynamic of the car with my driving style But I need to make a base line with the suspension tuning. Once I get it back on track I can figure out some more tuning options.
It may upset the car a lil bit but I think you will like that set up. What's your camber and toe set at?
 
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