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My slow seat time car.

9825 Views 144 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  chinchooter11
9
Updated as of 9/21/22

Here’s my slow seat time car for doing HPDE events and Time Attack. Mind you I DO NOT daily drive this car I may drive it every now and than to work but that's maybe a handful of times a year. It has basic suspension and engine mods, not looking to make any real power just a reliable weekend warrior. Its definitely a 20 footer car, looks good from 20 feet but anything up close you can see alot of dings, dents and overall wear and tare on this car. The car has been through hell and back and now is going through hell again. waiting to blow up the motor to do a swap. all mods were done by me.

Car weight as of 9-9-2022:
3100 with me and full tank
2960 without me

Engine management:
Haltech Elite 2500 ECU installed and running as of 9-7-22 running on speed density.

Engine:
189K miles original engine
6G74 Intake Manifold
Custom AEM Intake
RPW long tube headers
Ebay N1 style Cat-back
Flowmaster muffler in place of my Catalytic converter.
Mishimoto aluminum Radiator
Battery relocated to the trunk
Engine fuse box relocated to trunk
All emissions deleted
All 4 boosted fabrications motor mounts
Vibrant oil catch can
AEM FPR
3000GT fuel rail

Brakes and Suspension:
BC Racing BR coilovers 10KG front 6kg rear (these are default spring rates)
ST Rear sway bar
DC Sports rear strut bar
Front Evo Brembo calipers
Stoptech Evo slotted front rotors
Hawk DTC 60 front brake pads
Dynamic Friction rear race pads
SS brake lines

Exterior:
Ebay Depo style headlights
Certifit front bumper
AVID1 AV6 17x8 +35
235/45/17 Falken RT 660s
10mm front wheel spacers needed to clear the front brembos.
15mm rear wheel spacers
Trackspec hood vents

Interior:
FIA rated NRG driver seat
Impact racing 6 point harness drivers side
Regular NRG passenger seat
NRG 5 point harness passenger side
NRG Seat Brackets
Autopower roll bar
NRG steering wheel and quick release
IRP EVO8 Shifter

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Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Land vehicle

Wheel Tire Car Land vehicle Vehicle


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Engine pics before the Haltech
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Engine pics after the Haltech
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Ill be looking at getting a LSD at some point. Nothing wrong with working on the suspension for street use, you want a certain feel when driving it daily I totally get that. has to have comfort if im going to be drive it a lot. Unfortunately for my wife she wont get the chance to drive my car since it now has a fixed race seat, she wouldn't be able to touch the pedals. with your issues in the rear, does your car want to jump to one side when you hit a bump, I use to have a lot of bump steer in the rear when I was on KYB AGXs with H&R springs always scared me when it would do that. Ever since I went to coilovers had K-sports before now on BC racing I haven't had that problem. The problem I have now is that the rear end feels floaty when at 100+ MPH. At BIR people go flat out at turn 2 110+mph I just don't have the confidence in me to go flat out. might think of getting a 9Liveracing wing.
I would definitely get a LSD if you can that was a big game changer in my car. Cornering is more predictable
I would definitely get a LSD if you can that was a big game changer in my car. Cornering is more predictable
Sucky part is trying to find one manufacturers don’t make them as abundant as they use to, also you wouldn’t happen to know the OEM part number to the engine harness, I found a lot of my wiring is starting to crack and expose wire really close to the connectors. I would repin everything but I don’t know what pins are what for each sensor.
Well Friday was the last TNiA event of the season, and let’s just say I was 6 seconds faster with the new tires and brakes, unfortunately I ran that time with my car still miss firing. Good news is on my second session mid run it started to miss fire all the time. So I pull into the pits and I found one injector clip that had a wire broken, I’m guessing my intermittent miss fires was caused by that wire ready to let go and finally did. Upon further investigation I started to notice a lot of my wires are starting to get exposed really close to the connector. Here’s the way my engine looks it’s pretty stock but with a relocated battery and fuse box. When I had the wire harness out I depined a lot of the stuff I didn’t want or need. If anyone has any suggestions on what I can do to get my hands on some pins or if someone has a harness that’s in pretty good condition I’d be willing to buy it so off season I have something to work on. For gridlife I’m changing out all my injector clips along with what ever clips I can get my hands on from a parts place.
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I have the long cold air intake for mine, but they will not pass smog in California with it on. It is stored away right now. I am waiting for winter to hopefully get some work done on the cars and bikes. I own two houses so that seems to be all that gets worked on until the weather turns cold. ...J.D.
I have the long cold air intake for mine, but they will not pass smog in California with it on. It is stored away right now. I am waiting for winter to hopefully get some work done on the cars and bikes. I own two houses so that seems to be all that gets worked on until the weather turns cold. ...J.D.
Yeah I’m lucky cause I’m MN we don’t have smog (who know when that will change) but I have the extension to make it a CAI just took it off cause this time of year we tend to get a decent amount of rain in the Midwest and it was forecasted to see some showers on race day last Friday. Prob keep it this way till the end of the year. I have a house but it’s a town home, been there since I was 18 so maintenance for me is pretty straight forward even though HOAs are kinda a rip off. It’s hard for me to find time to work on my car let alone work out of a 1 car garage, working over nights 4 days a week, and traveling back and forth from NY to MN every weekend (my wife lives in NY and I live in MN) but I just sacrifice sleep to do it after work or I’ll stay in MN if it’s something I need to get done ASAP. I know it’ll be asked at some point how I can travel every weekend it’s cause I’m a mechanic for a commercial airline. What can I say it’s the perks for working at one. Been doing it for the last 8 years and before that I was a car mechanic.
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Did the professional mechanic gig until 1984. Went back to college and became an Operating Engineer until my retirement the end of 2008. I operated and maintained large high rise office buildings. Living off of pensions and Social Security these days. ...J.D.
Good video presentation and track videos! Keep them coming
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Good video presentation and track videos! Keep them coming
Thanks, Ill try and do some Vlogs when I'm out at road America and a little more about the car. Until than here's some of the footage from the last TNiA

First session out Ran my personal best of 1.11.68 even with the car still miss firing. The car feels a lot more peppy with some decent power after figuring out my timing issue and no more loosing coolant after changing every single coolant gasket on the motor.

Second session this is where things get kind weird. I decided to just send it and keep driving hard even with the miss fire do I can do more checks, during lap 6 I completely lost a cylinder it wouldn't comeback. I go for another cool down lap to check my AFRs and they were between 13.1 - 14 not that bad, good part is it didn't go straight to rich or lean. I pull into the pits and find out that one of my injector wires for cylinder number 6 has broken off. Upon further inspection of all my injector clips I can see they are all starting to brake close to the clip. Exposed wire, some wire strands broke but still working. I decide to shove a piece of hard wire into the socket of the injector and wrap the wire around it held it on by electrical tap so I can limp it back home which worked great, got home and started to inspect all my wires. 20 years of old wire an you can really see the toll it has taken, I've depined most of my wiring so I can slide shrink tube over it to protect the wiring until the off season to take care of it in a more proper way. I really though I wasn't going to get to go to Road America but glad its something I can fix pretty easily, again crossing my fingers that this will solve my miss fire issues.

This to be fixed before RR
Finish all my wiring, changing out all 6 injector clips, coolant sensor clip, Crank position sensor clip, and MAP sensor clip.
Do a hardware check of all the nuts and bolts
Pull the fender a little more on the pass front.
Check for any rubbing areas in the front and address as needed. EX cut everything out that is rubbing
Change out Power steering belt along with the alternator belt
Remove all center caps (GridLife rules)
If it comes in time change out my coolant reservoir bought a Mishimoto universal one pretty standard and easy thing to install.

2 weeks is going to come quick but I'm excited and scared at the same time to get to another big track
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Sucky part is trying to find one manufacturers don’t make them as abundant as they use to, also you wouldn’t happen to know the OEM part number to the engine harness, I found a lot of my wiring is starting to crack and expose wire really close to the connectors. I would repin everything but I don’t know what pins are what for each sensor.
contact ostarmotorsports. They can get wavetrac and quaife lsd. They may have some in stock
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Does your car keep up in this field ? What other vehicles are you racing with in your class ? I notice you are running Falkin's. I tried several brands on mine. Falkin, Khumo's. I am now running Dunlop DZ-102's. So far they seem to have the most grip. Tire life is a bit short though. ...J.D.
Does your car keep up in this field ? What other vehicles are you racing with in your class ? I notice you are running Falkin's. I tried several brands on mine. Falkin, Khumo's. I am now running Dunlop DZ-102's. So far they seem to have the most grip. Tire life is a bit short though. ...J.D.
At the TNiA events it ranges from vets, s2ks, lots of Miatas, frs/brz/86 whole range of cars but for the most part I can keep up to an extent. I’m not the best driver and don’t always take the best line but I push pretty hard. Fast people are running between 1.09 to 1.07 average people are around my time 1.11 to 1.10. The RT660s people are saying they are cheater tires the 235/45/17s I have are more like 240s they are a bit wider than advertised. But you gotta remember the RT660s are 200tw and the tires you have are 460tw it’s a huge difference in tire. I ran most of the season on 500tw tires an they are rock hard fun to drive with and you learn a lot from them but on a track they chunk pretty bad. Not to sure on the life span since I’ve only had them for 2 track days and about 500miles of regular driving.
Dunlops are definitely good tires for traction.
Of course mine are a street tire. But I was amazed at the difference the tire compound made. Another big change was when I went up 1" in wheel width and kept the same tire size ( 225-45X17). It spread the tire a bit and flattened out the tread. Made a huge difference. My tire diameter is almost the same as the stock 215-50X17's and only 10mm difference in section width, but the grip is awesome ! I want to stay with the 17's so as not to effect the drive ratio. I see about 1mph faster speedo reading at 90 mph. ...J.D.
It`s a total bummer that you guys still have the dreaded smog test and new rules are no aftermarket air intakes ... Hopefully you have your original equipment and can reinstall it to get your sticker and then put your cold air back on...I just heard on the radio that the cops are pulling over tuner cars to make sure they have mufflers... Mine ends at the resonator so I hope I don`t get busted.
I am an older guy. Lost the desire to make a lot of noise. I leave that to all the tuner kids in the neighborhood. I WOULD like to run a few SCCA Solo events though. Don't think I am up to any wheel to wheel action. Just an old guy that is still young at heart. Hard to find time these days. My life has too many different things going on. ...J.D.
I am old to @whtrabit so from one old fart to another I need to tell you to find the time and follow your dream . Not sure what SCCA Solo event would be but ... DO IT...
While we are speaking I need to correct you on your tire size ...You say you went up 1" in tire size and see 1mph at 90 .. Really ..the opposite is true.... look at this chart .. With old age I guess your mind is playing tricks on you .... Let`s call it a brain fart ... Tire Size Comparison
I am old to @whtrabit so from one old fart to another I need to tell you to find the time and follow your dream . Not sure what SCCA Solo event would be but ... DO IT...
While we are speaking I need to correct you on your tire size ...You say you went up 1" in tire size and see 1mph at 90 .. Really ..the opposite is true.... look at this chart .. With old age I guess your mind is playing tricks on you .... Let`s call it a brain fart ... Tire Size Comparison
No. I went up 1" in rim WIDTH to 8.5". Tire diameter actually down, but only slightly. That was due to going from the original 215-50 to a 225-45. The lower aspect ratio coupled with speading the tire out a bit made the tire shorter. [tire is shorter so speedo reads faster. No brain fart on this end]. Probabily less then an inch though. Still using 17" wheels. ...J.D.
I owe you an apology sir.. I completely missed 1" in width... My brain fart not yours .. Please forgive me
No problem. True, we all struggle with keeping the brain cells active. almost 13 yrs. retired. I have to have six things going at one to keep my attention. I miss a few things at times but I am fighting it for all I am worth. Beats the brain rot of sitting watching sports. Been some sort of a tech all my life. Have to keep the brain cells going. The body is falling apart.
...J.D.
UPDATED WITH PARTS LIST. Here’s my slow seat time car for doing HPDE events and Time Attack. Mind you I DO NOT daily drive this car I may drive it every now and than to work but that's maybe a handful of times a year. It has basic suspension and engine mods, not looking to make any real power just a reliable weekend warrior. Pics were taken recently on July 9 track night event. its definitely a 20 footer car, looks good from 20 feet but anything up close you can see alot of dings, dents and overall wear and tare on this car. The car has been through hell and back and now is going through hell again. waiting to blow up the motor to do a swap. all mods were done by me.


Engine:
189K miles original engine
6G75 Intake Manifold
AEM Intake
RPW long tube headers
Ebay N1 style Cat-back
Flowmaster muffler in place of my Catalytic converter.
Mishimoto aluminum Radiator
Battery relocated to the trunk
Engine fuse box relocated to trunk
All emissions deleted
Front and rear Energy Suspension motor mounts

Brakes and Suspension:
In the photo its on Ksport Kontrol sport coilovers. As of 7/25/21 its on BC Racing BR coilovers 10KG front 6kg rear (these are default spring rates)
ST Rear sway bar
DC Sports rear strut bar
Front Evo Brembo calipers
Stoptech Evo slotted front rotors
Hawk DTC 70 front brake pads
Dynamic Friction rear race pads
SS brake lines

Exterior:
Ebay Depo style headlights
Certifit front bumper
AVID1 AV6 17x8 +35
235/45/17 Falken RT 660s
10mm front wheel spacers needed to clear the front brembos.
15mm rear wheel spacers
Trackspec hood vents

Interior:
FIA rated NRG driver seat
Impact racing 6 point harness drivers side
Regular NRG passenger seat
NRG 5 point harness passenger side
NRG Seat Brackets
NRG Harness bar going to be changed to Autopower roll bar
NRG steering wheel and quick release
B&M short throw shifter with bushings

Next event will be September 24 for the last TNiA then off to Road America October 8

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Man that looks super goooood 9Apps Showbox
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