Well I have decided that I'm doing the Dohc head swap. I've been reading up on this project for about a month or two now and I have a good idea of whats going on.
I bought my eclipse in august of 2013 because I needed something to work on, and i figured it would be a nice first car to fix up and really learn how to work on engines. I know all the parts inside, out and around of an engine and how they work. Since i bought the car I have installed a greddy catback, aem cai, ebay header, and 6g74 throttle body swap. Im a junior in highschool but i want to do this swap so badly. Money is a bit of an issue but i dont plan on buying aftermarket parts until i get this all up and running. I will admit that I am a little nervous about this swap, but I plan to take my time and to do it right. I'm confident that i can complete this project but I'll need help along the way.
Okay, so about a week ago i went to the junkyard and i took off a 2001 sonata head from the junkyard. I got this for $80.
yeah so far thats all i have but i just ordered the evo 8 intake manifold, injectors and fuel rail all for a bout $100. i plan on buying all of the parts before i start installing everything. I wanna drive my baby for as long as i can before i start ripping things about.
any help and support is appreciated. thanks :yesway:
Good luck man i just finished mine. Theres a good thread on here somewhere thats not a step by step but it gives u a good rough outline one what to do. Dont forget the resistor packs for the injectors.
Hey sorry for the newb question, but im still learning as i go. what does a resistor pack do? and do i only need one? or do i need one for each injector?
also, what if i used a resistor delete plug?
can anyone tell me the right route to go?
Use subi wrx injectors... They are stock impedance so no need for resistor packs , no need to change harnesses either, literally plug and play after you tune for scaling and a few other things
Im actually stuck at the same question about the resistors. I know how they work. Im just not exactly sure how to hook them up. Right now im just using my stock injectors. Most guys say they didnt need any special spacers for their injector set ups but i had to put extra o rings on the injectors to make everything snug.
I bought the IM, fuel rail, and injectors all for 100$ so it's no big deal if I have to buy subie injectors. I think I'll do that. Thanks for the help.
Okay so first I just want to get everything up and running before I start adding aftermarket parts. I plan on putting some 272's in the head along with BC valve springs and TI retainers. To do this I would need to swap the valve train with the Evo valve train. But what is absolutely neccessary for me to swap over? of course the high lift springs and ti retainers. I plan on buying the evo rockers. but if thats all i swap over, will that cause problems because the rest of the hyundai valve train isnt strong enough?
First, good luck. As I'm about $90 away from finishing mine. All you need to swap over are valves (<= optional) Springs, retainers, and lifters. Valves are optional because they are (for the most part) the same valve. And when it comes down to timing it, save yourself the time by buying a 94 galant gs belt. It's the only one that fits the right way without excess tension.
Brian Crower parts suck. Get GSC. You can retain kia valves just fine as well as rockers. Only OEM evo part I'd recommend getting is a set of lifters. The kia ones won't handle high lift cams and stiffer springs very well.
And ryandiaz440, thanks to you too. im buying a set of injectors tomorrow and then i just need all the little stuff like gaskets and all that fun stuff. But its good to know that the galant belt fits better because i saw a video about a dohc eclipse and he had the evo 8 belt and it had quite a bit of slack on it. On a scale of 1-5 how easy/difficult would you say the swap is?
But its good to know that the galant belt fits better because i saw a video about a dohc eclipse and he had the evo 8 belt and it had quite a bit of slack on it. On a scale of 1-5 how easy/difficult would you say the swap is?
You really are in way over your head. The Evo belt is too tight, there's no way someone used an Evo timing belt on a 4G64 block / 4G63 head and found themselves with too much slack.
Ill post a pic of my set up with the evo belt when i can for all the nay sayers. Lol just make sure you loosen the tensioner and tensioner pulley when u go to put it on and its easy.
I did give you helpful information, you suggested people were finding too much slack with the Evo belt. I'm telling you it's too tight and you should use the Galant belt. And for the other moron above me, nobody ever suggested you couldn't use it, it was simply suggested to use the correct belt, that is, a 4G64 DOHC belt. It's [the Evo belt] just simply too tight which leads to premature belt failure. How much sooner? Nobody knows, maybe 2,000 miles, maybe 20,000 miles; I hope you find out in due time for not knowing how to read.
Well my car is parked for good. It was running pretty loud this weekend but I found a missing bolt in the bottom part of my header so I thought that was the cause of the noise. Then yesterday morning on the way to school it got twice as loud and it sounded like a muscle car. When I got home I found a huge hole that rotted through the pipe between my header and my cat. So I decided I'll start taking my head off, this weekend and the rest of my parts should be here in a couple weeks. I'll try to get that fixed in the mean time. This sucks. :noplease:
Okay so I tried to take off my cam gears last night I'm having a bit of trouble. I put a wrench on the camshaft and I used an impact wrench to take it off. Does anyone know if the threads might be reversed? Because it makes sense when you think about it since the cams are turning clockwise. I tried to loosen both ways and I had no luck.
I've been trying that for the past few days and I've even used an impact wrench and I can't get these fuckers off! I need to switch my cam gears and then I can put the head on.
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