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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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7,180 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm in the process of installing a Ripp SDS system (blow-thru) in my car (2001/GT/5pd/Spyder/80K miles) and figured this would be a good place for me to track what I've done so far and issues I have run into. I am planning to boost as high as possible without upgrading the pistons yet. I have everything needed for Stage 3 but seeing this is my 1st FI install I will start off stage 1. Once I get a built 6G74 installed I will go to Stage 3 on that.

So far I have completed the following:
-oil pan tapped
-alt bolt direction reversed
-Greddy oil block adapter installed
-310cc venom injectors installed
-radiator bracket cut/hacked
-compression test done and all is well
-windshield wiper fluid resevoir removed (no squirters so not needed)
-SDS idler pulley bolted to AC bracket bracket and torqued
-machined upper alt bracket installed

(edit updates:)
-oil lines & fittings installed
-oil psi probe/gauge installed
-radiator hose prepped
-coolant neck shortened for upper hose

Some quick questions to keep me moving forward:
1) Does the upper coolant hose "nipple" really have to have 1.25" cut off of it? We are talking about where the OEM upper radiator hose connects, right?
2) Any idea what the torque spec is for the SDS idler pulley bolt (connects Ripp pulley to the aluminum Ripp bracket near the alt)?
3) Does the Black box have to be sent in (or retuned) anytime you change engine parts or change Stages of the SDS system?
4) Is it possible to run Stage 2 without upgraded pistons and using the Meth pump? I guess I am not sure what makes it "Stage 2".
5) Does the crank pulley need to be replaced with the one from Ripp for Stage 1? For Stage 2?

Thanks in advance!
 

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:woot:

1) Does the upper coolant hose "nipple" really have to have 1.25" cut off of it? We are talking about where the OEM upper radiator hose connects, right?
Yes, otherwise, you won't have enough clearance for the hose to bend down onto it with the shaft coming across. Surprisingly, that metal action cuts like butter.

The rest I don't know for sure.
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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7,180 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Heck yeah! I would call RIpp to have them answer most of the questions you have. Talk to Angelo, if he's still there that's where you get the best answers :)
Will do! And guys don't think I am being lazy! I WILL call Ripp ASAP to get questioned answered. Just wanted to check here 1st as I trust this community's responses more than Ripp's (plus I am at work ATM). I will try and get pics as I proceed.

I'd love to see some photos of how others have their oil lines routed. I know the drain line will go between the heater hose and the AC compressor but I'm not sure about the feed line. Based off of Ripp's install photos I'm guessing that one is routed between the block and the front header tubes? I'm leary of just running it like that without knowing how others did it. I'd plan to secure it but I can just imagine the hose touching the headers and melting :lol: hence my eason for wanting a photo!

BTW, I will supply +rep as I am able!!! Many thanks for the feedback guys!
 

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Stage 1 SDS @11+ psi
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1) Does the upper coolant hose "nipple" really have to have 1.25" cut off of it? We are talking about where the OEM upper radiator hose connects, right?
Yes, you have to do it. It is not hard and your can use a hack saw while the outlet is on the car. No removal needed. Just put a cloth inside the outlet to prevent metal fragments from getting down to the thermostat.

2) Any idea what the torque spec is for the SDS idler pulley bolt (connects Ripp pulley to the aluminum Ripp bracket near the alt)?
No more than 25-28 lbs. or you'll strip the thing. Put on Locktite on the bolt first.

3) Does the Black box have to be sent in (or retuned) anytime you change engine parts or change Stages of the SDS system?
At one time, yes. They now have provide some tuning software for the BB. So you can adjust the tune a bit.

4) Is it possible to run Stage 2 without upgraded pistons and using the Meth pump? I guess I am not sure what makes it "Stage 2".
Yes you can. BUT... 1)you better have control of your tune. 2)you need to understand that you have little room for error with the stock pistons. 3) you may need more than the BB to control that tune.

5) Does the crank pulley need to be replaced with the one from Ripp for Stage 1? For Stage 2?
The standard kit that comes from Ripp is the Stage 1. The Stage 1 has larger pulley (~2 7/8") than Stage 2 (~2.5" ...the exact dimensions I can't remember). You don't need the crank pulley. But if you add it, you get significantly higher boost levels with both SDS pulleys. Some where in this forum, someone laid out the psi level for each pulley setup... I've been drinking, so I can't remember. :drunk: :chug:
 

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"Suck my unit"
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The standard kit that comes from Ripp is the Stage 1. The Stage 1 has larger pulley (~2 7/8") than Stage 2 (~2.5" ...the exact dimensions I can't remember). You don't need the crank pulley. But if you add it, you get significantly higher boost levels with both SDS pulleys. Some where in this forum, someone laid out the psi level for each pulley setup... I've been drinking, so I can't remember. :drunk: :chug:
Im pretty sure the crank pulley added 2 psi.
 

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Stage I - Large Shaft Pulley, Stock Crank Pulley 5-8psi
Stage II - Small Shaft Pulley, Stock Crank Pulley 8-13psi
Stage II.5 - Large Shaft Pulley, Aluminum Overdrive Crank Pulley 14-16 psi
Stage III - Small Shaft Pulley, Aluminum Overdrive Crank Pulley 17-20+psi

All of the Psi range will depend on your whole setup, by that I mean how much back pressure your car has, how much air flow it has through the intake, TB, Manifolds, Heads, Cams, Port and Polish, ect..
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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7,180 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
God I love this community! Thanks for all the answers guys! You all are making this install go very smoothly. Time for me to contribute to the site again!

Yes, you have to do it. It is not hard and your can use a hack saw while the outlet is on the car. No removal needed. Just put a cloth inside the outlet to prevent metal fragments from getting down to the thermostat.
I pulled it and Dremeled it yesterday. Followed that with a 30 second polishing job, LOL. Seems good to go.





No more than 25-28 lbs. or you'll strip the thing. Put on Locktite on the bolt first.
Thx! Good thing I asked as I forgot to locktite the dang thing. Will remove and do that today. But is that 25-28 in-lbs or ft-lbs? I'll assume in-lbs unless I hear different. Also, does the bearing need to be greased, oiled, or anything like that? Keep in mind mine is used and slightly dirty. Seems to spin just fine with no "play" or slop in it. Pretty dirty though... I need to clean it up.


At one time, yes. They now have provide some tuning software for the BB. So you can adjust the tune a bit.
I'm confused as to how you would hook anything up to the box to adjust the tune :scratch: Its not like there is a serial or USB port on the dang thing. I guess I'll ask Ripp on Monday <crosses fingers that Angelo is still working there!>


Yes you can. BUT... 1)you better have control of your tune. 2)you need to understand that you have little room for error with the stock pistons. 3) you may need more than the BB to control that tune.
I am currently using Evoscan/ECUFlash/Zeitronix for tuning although I haven't done much yet. I started scaling the injectors (Venom 310s) but stopped after I realized that they would just need to be scaled again after adding the SDS :( Do you all start with scaling for idle (LTFT-L) or for cruise (LTFT-M)? Logicgate told me to start with cruise but I see FlashblueRS suggests starting with idle :dunno: I started with cruise but even after adjusting down to around 240 or so (approx) my LTFTs were still at -24 or -20 (whichever is max).


The standard kit that comes from Ripp is the Stage 1. The Stage 1 has larger pulley (~2 7/8") than Stage 2 (~2.5" ...the exact dimensions I can't remember). You don't need the crank pulley.
I have never done a timing belt before or ever messed with anything crank related. I see Ripp says the overdrive crank pulley includes a timing mark. Is that the little 1-2mm hole drilled next to the bolt hole? That is the only "mark" I see anywhere on this thing. I may have bigger issues with my pulley though :angryazn: I purchased my kit used from Dave (Dr 9023G) and I think he said it came off of Crow's car (I've been sitting on this kit for YEARS!) I'm not sure if the pulley is repairable or not as it has some dings in it. It also appears that a small portion of the lip may have been "shaved" off of the timing belt side of things. It is definately not a perfect circle. Any idea if this is normal? I see Ripp says the pulley is "fully zero balanced" so I am concerned. Let me know what you all think!

Ding:


*My plan was/is to try and bend the ding out using a large clamp. If that didn't go smoothly I would plan to grind that dent off so it was not rubbing the belt. Obvioulsy I would smooth it out so it did not cut the belt due to sharp edges. Not ideal but I'm trying to avoid buying a new $200 pulley IF possible.

Here is the "noncircular" portion of the pulley that concerns me:



Where have others mounted the Black box and Brat? I assume in the cabin near the ECU? And what the hell is that metal tab for on the Black box? Seems like a grounding point but I see it has a wire that is used for grounding. Is it just a mounting tab?

Anyone know exactly how much has to be trimmed off of the upper radiator hose ends? I'm guessing about 2" from each end but figured I'd ask what other did before I hack mine up.

As she currently sits:


Some other items I am working on to go with this install include the following:
-polished: SDS shaft, valve cover, manifold, TB, boost piping, various brackets, strut bar, plastic windshield sill
*would be finished but accidently order the wrong size polishing wheels (wrong arbor size :angryazn:)
-replacing coolant resevoir with OBX style (in mail)
-replacing Ripp meth resevoir with OBX style (in mail)
-Krankvents + Evo PCV (or drill out OEM PCV seeing Krankvets are used)
-blue vac hoses, SS braiding, etc
-NGK sparks from Ripp
-proper sized oil cap (ebay unit on order)
-Aeromotive A1000-6 FPR
-Walboro 255 HO fuel pump


My BIGGEST problem so far has been the fuel lines, BY FAR. I can't seem to get the high pressure fuel line to hardline fitting to break loose. I'm gonna take some pics today and post up. I MUST be doing something wrong because even between myself (x-army ranger) and my buddy (current SF) we were unable to loosen the fitting. Seemed like the breaker bar was going to snap in half or explode LOL.
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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7,180 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Can anyone tell me how to release/remove the OEM high pressure fuel line to hardline fitting? I'm not seeing any real info in the FSM about this and I have searched extensively! Maybe I don't have the proper sized wrenches?? We tried soaking it in Liquid Wrench but that had no effect. Maybe heat with a torch and try again?! LOL, j/k!


I assume the breaker bar (3/4" head) is rotated counter-clockwise/left and the smaller (14mm) wrench is kept in place or rotated clockwise/right? Do you have to push in on the fuel line while doing this or anything? I'm going to wait for suggestions then I'll try my last resort idea of cutting the hardline itself and reflaring it (37deg) for an AN fitting. I'd REALLY like to avoid that though as I hear sometimes if the hardline is too hard/strong that the flaring tool just pops off the line/tube without creating a flare. And if that happened I'd be looking at a tow to a shop (and back) plus their labor charges :( I can't imagine how much a shop would charge to mess with a hardline like this :dunno:

:help: (again) ;)

:edit: Just got back from Autozone and I saw they have a bunch of tools called "fuel fitting quick disconnects". Are one of those needed? I'd have no idea how to use it. No directions were included.
 

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Stage 1 SDS @11+ psi
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Why do you need to pull that fuel line off? Does the fitting not work for your fuel rail? Anyhow, I meant lbs/ft. for the idler pulley.
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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7,180 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Why do you need to pull that fuel line off? Does the fitting not work for your fuel rail?
I am currently using the OEM fuel rail fittings for my VR4 rails :angryazn: Fugly @ best. The A1000 FPR I got is completely polished. Because of this I picked up some SS lines to use with it (why have fugly lines going to something nice?) I need to get an AN fitting onto the hardline in order to use it with the A1000. I think everyone using the A1000 is using AN fittings :dunno: Last time I checked I think I was the only one not able to remove the fitting which maked me think I am missing something! :scratch:
I need to search some more I guess as its been awhile since I last reviewed this... gave up after repeated failures :noplease: BUT I'm back at it now! :ndance:

Anyhow, I meant lbs/ft. for the idler pulley.
:worship: I'm on it! Got red threadlock gel an hour ago.

I've tried repping everyone in here but I need to spread more 1st! :squint: weak but understandable.
 

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Turbo Buick > you
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When i did my SS fuel lines, i just cut the hard line and reflaired it, and then connected the SS hose to it. Worked fine for me.
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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7,180 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
When i did my SS fuel lines, i just cut the hard line and reflaired it, and then connected the SS hose to it. Worked fine for me.
I'm going to do that if I am unable to remove the stock fitting before this w/e. Tired of this BS! When you did your cutting did you disconnect the hardline "holder" from the firewall or did you just bend the high pressure line so you could get the cutter all the way around it? Just looking for tips I guess. Thx for the feedback! +repped.
 

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Hey NC[spyder]GT, If you have the pipe from RIPP (the one that the BOV came on) will you measure the length of it for me, I got a piece of 2.75" aluminum pipe to weld my new BOV on and need to know how long that pipe needs to be, since I sold my last one with the BOV!
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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7,180 Posts
Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
will measure it tonight

*edit* 5 13/16"
 

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As far as the boxes, I put mine up under the dash on the passenger side of the ECU. I didn't want the clutter in the engine bay and I wanted to keep all the wiring central in one location.

Be prepared to be sore - soldering wires on your back/stomach is never fun. Pull the passenger seat (obviously) to give yourself room to spread out.
 
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