Need Help To Find Seal For Inner Shaft Bearing Bracket
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They are good fit for my 2000 MIT eclipse. The inner seal and the bearing seat well, and the seal is flushed to the bracket. The outer seal also is flushed to the bracket, and to the CV cup. I think about NOT using the inner dust cover but will apply RTV sealent around the shaft at the bracket. This way RTV will seal the water/dust off the bearing. I will see taking the shaft, and the bracket together with the bearing, and the seal to the car shop to be pressed in. I will see to install after checking out the axle seal at the transmission side. Any recomendation?
Outer seal is MB526680, which is included in kit MR388567 if you had chosen to buy it...
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axle seal for transmission is
MN132370
MN132370
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The inner seal is the top one. Its national brand part # 51098. You can see it fits well to the bracket, and it can be pressed to be flushed to the edge of the bracket. The re-assembly sequence I unsderstand is the bearing, the inner seal then the shaft. Is this correct? The shaft will rotates along the cir·cum·fer·ence of the inner seal. Is this right? I believe the friction between the seal and the shaft will damage the seal in no time. Right? How does the intershaft work?
How does the OEM inner seal, MB526680, physically look like? Is it like the pic of the seal I posted? what are its dimention? How does it fit in the bracket? Please shed me some light.
The bottom seal is 710221. It fits well into the bracket and the CV cup.
First of all, since you bought non-OEM parts, there's no way for me to tell if they are correct. If you compare them to the old, you should be able to figure it out. When assembled properly, the seals should not she houstick out of the housing, and thus should not touch/rub on the cup of the axle. The outside ring of the bearing remains stationary when installed, and the inside ring rotates with the axle. Compare the old and new bearings for diameter and thickness. The new one should fit tightly in the housing and approximately centered or halfway into the housing. There may be a ridge inside the housing to keep the bearing from pushing through too far, when installed from the inner side (transmission) rather than outer side (wheel). You should try assembling everything before trying to install on the car, then test that the bearing housing freely rotates independently from the inner shaft and outer axle. If put together correctly, then the housing mounting bolts will align correctly when the inner shaft is completely inserted in the transmission. Since there's no clip on the transmission side on the inner shaft, you just push it in as far as you can till the mounting bolts align with the engines holes. If the complete assembly sticks out too far at the wheel hub, then either your outer axle is too long, or it is not pushed together completely at the bearing housing or at the transmission. I highly recommend replacing the transmission seal also, especially if you had trouble getting the inner shaft out.
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MB526680 location in the CV assmbly
The above link shows MB526680 is the seal at the CV cup and CV axle assembly. Its not the inner seal that is included in Bearing - Mitsubishi (MR388567), and its not for 2000. Please verify?
This below link shows the OEM MR388567 which is consisted of the bearing and the inner seal.
https://www.wholesalemitsubishiparts.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-bearing-mr388567
Do you know the part number of the inner seal? what type of seal is it?
I have the old OEM inner seal that I posted above. I can not picture how it fits into the bracket. Do you have a picture of completed bearing assembly that shows how the inner seal seats in the bracket? Or do you have physical picture of the inner seal?
This is nationa brand oil seal 51098 I bought, and want to use it as the inner seal together with the National Bearing 206-FF BCA bearing (BCA Bearing) and National oil seal part 51098. They both fit well inside the bracket but its re-assembly is corrected or not, you know?
The physical apperance of the national oil seal is not strong, and I am not clear if the inner seal can withstand the friction of the inner shaft rotation. I contacted the member of Mitsubishi 3000GT & Dodge Stealth Forum who did document the national brand on the seal 51098. I wanted to know how long he used it his car?
Yes I had difficult in removing the stucked CV cup off the bracket . The inner shaft assembly was not bad after I took out 2 bolts like you said. The location of the bolts was kinda odd for me with the car on the stand jacks. I should have done like you said taking the stuck cv cup to be pressed out. I know there are more difficults ahead of me to install the CV assembly back to the car.
Yes I need to buy MIT OEM parts but they are expensive, and may not be available for my 2000 car. My original parts_ the shaft, the bracket, the bearing are still good to use I think but the seals are damaged during the disassembly process.
. Mit dont just sell the seals by themself but the whole kit. Its why I am looking for the aftermarket parts.
Yes I plan to replace inner shaft/trans. seal after I remove the old one. I want to use a new c-clip that I am not sure I can buy individually?
The above link shows MB526680 is the seal at the CV cup and CV axle assembly. Its not the inner seal that is included in Bearing - Mitsubishi (MR388567), and its not for 2000. Please verify?
This below link shows the OEM MR388567 which is consisted of the bearing and the inner seal.
https://www.wholesalemitsubishiparts.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-bearing-mr388567
Do you know the part number of the inner seal? what type of seal is it?
I have the old OEM inner seal that I posted above. I can not picture how it fits into the bracket. Do you have a picture of completed bearing assembly that shows how the inner seal seats in the bracket? Or do you have physical picture of the inner seal?
This is nationa brand oil seal 51098 I bought, and want to use it as the inner seal together with the National Bearing 206-FF BCA bearing (BCA Bearing) and National oil seal part 51098. They both fit well inside the bracket but its re-assembly is corrected or not, you know?
The physical apperance of the national oil seal is not strong, and I am not clear if the inner seal can withstand the friction of the inner shaft rotation. I contacted the member of Mitsubishi 3000GT & Dodge Stealth Forum who did document the national brand on the seal 51098. I wanted to know how long he used it his car?
Yes I had difficult in removing the stucked CV cup off the bracket . The inner shaft assembly was not bad after I took out 2 bolts like you said. The location of the bolts was kinda odd for me with the car on the stand jacks. I should have done like you said taking the stuck cv cup to be pressed out. I know there are more difficults ahead of me to install the CV assembly back to the car.
Yes I need to buy MIT OEM parts but they are expensive, and may not be available for my 2000 car. My original parts_ the shaft, the bracket, the bearing are still good to use I think but the seals are damaged during the disassembly process.
. Mit dont just sell the seals by themself but the whole kit. Its why I am looking for the aftermarket parts.Yes I plan to replace inner shaft/trans. seal after I remove the old one. I want to use a new c-clip that I am not sure I can buy individually?
Use your vise to bend the old c-clip back into shape, or bring inner shaft and old c-clip to hardware store to compare and the clerk can figure it out. There is no Mitsu part number for the c-clip because they are universal, just need correct size.
Like I suggested, try re-assembling the inner shaft, bearing housing, seals, bearing, and outer axle on the floor or workbench. Install the seals in whatever orientation allows them to sit flush and that will be the correct position. Don't install the c-clip until you are ready for permanent installation.
So without the c-clip installed, you can check that everything is flush and won't rub.
If the seals don't sit flush, they are the wrong part number. Then you have to return the parts and order the kit.
Like I suggested, try re-assembling the inner shaft, bearing housing, seals, bearing, and outer axle on the floor or workbench. Install the seals in whatever orientation allows them to sit flush and that will be the correct position. Don't install the c-clip until you are ready for permanent installation.
So without the c-clip installed, you can check that everything is flush and won't rub.
If the seals don't sit flush, they are the wrong part number. Then you have to return the parts and order the kit.
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Bearing bracket>> red arrow is where the bearing seat. Its vertical distance is ~ 17 mm vs 16 mm bearing. The bracket open DIA is 62 mm vs 63 mm OD bearing National 206-FF. The bearing will be pressed down and flushed down to the stop. The between-blue gap, the inner seal #51098 seat, is about 11 mm vertical distance. The seal vertical distance is 11.3 mm. So the inner seal is about 0.3 mm not flushed to the edge of the bracket.
I plan NOT to use the old inner dust cover.
The outer seal, National part # 710221 fits well to CV cup.
I think I am ready to take them to the shop for the re-assembly of the inner shaft and the bearing and the seals.
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Greeting All
I hope yall are doing well, and you are warming up. The weather in FW Texas is getting warm into the Spring. I decided to work on my eclipse where I left off. I decided to buy Mit OEM parts for my inner shaft assembly, and had them assembled together. I now ready to install the inner shaft back to the car. I was able to input the inner shaft into the transmission but the pins and the bracket holes were not lined up. I moved the floor jack up and down but not working. You took it out before, didnt you, and how did you out it back, please advice?
I hope yall are doing well, and you are warming up. The weather in FW Texas is getting warm into the Spring. I decided to work on my eclipse where I left off. I decided to buy Mit OEM parts for my inner shaft assembly, and had them assembled together. I now ready to install the inner shaft back to the car. I was able to input the inner shaft into the transmission but the pins and the bracket holes were not lined up. I moved the floor jack up and down but not working. You took it out before, didnt you, and how did you out it back, please advice?
Push it into the transaxle till it's fully seated, then tap on opposite end to make sure. Most likely, it is not all the way into the transaxle, which is causing the mounting holes to be misaligned. If you used a new seal for the transaxle, make sure you removed the old one first, as this will prevent the axle from fully seating.
Since you also messed with the seals of the mounting bracket, it is possible that is causing misalignment of the mounting holes also. Any deviation from specs in the seals will affect the overall length, and thus misalignment of the mounting holes.
When fully seated, there shouldn't be any space between the axle and the transaxle.
Try getting the holes aligned WITHOUT the outer axle installed, in other words, install in sections rather than as one complete axle.
This should help you figure out where the problem is.
Since you also messed with the seals of the mounting bracket, it is possible that is causing misalignment of the mounting holes also. Any deviation from specs in the seals will affect the overall length, and thus misalignment of the mounting holes.
When fully seated, there shouldn't be any space between the axle and the transaxle.
Try getting the holes aligned WITHOUT the outer axle installed, in other words, install in sections rather than as one complete axle.
This should help you figure out where the problem is.
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Thanks for the input. Yes I am trying to remove the gasket at the transmission output. It’s the original one for 200k miles, and it becomes a hard piece plastic that cakes like as if it glued into its seat at the transmission. I am peeling it out a piece by piece. Any recommendation?
I guess its not surprising that the seal hardened that much. I would put a piece of cloth in the hole a little bit past the seal to keep the broken seal chunks from getting into the transaxle as you pick and pry at the seal. Maybe have a vacuum handy to suck out the loose bits as needed. Be careful not to gouge the metal where the seal sits or the new seal may leak. Take your time and be careful. Use a variety of picks and flat screwdrivers to remove/pry the seal loose. Its not going to be easy, especially if the car is on jackstands instead of a lift. A flashlight would definitely be helpful. Get the surface as clean as possible so the new seal sits properly.
And dont forget to remove the cloth plug!!!
One thing I failed to mention earlier is that when installing the axle, you have to slightly rotate the axle to align the male splines with the female grooves so that it pushes in easier. Practice this with the outer axle and bearing housing BEFORE attempting installation. This will give you an idea of the finesse needed to fit them together.
And dont forget to remove the cloth plug!!!
One thing I failed to mention earlier is that when installing the axle, you have to slightly rotate the axle to align the male splines with the female grooves so that it pushes in easier. Practice this with the outer axle and bearing housing BEFORE attempting installation. This will give you an idea of the finesse needed to fit them together.
When done, change your transaxle fluid using 3 quarts of Red-Line MT-85, which you probably wont be able find at your local autoparts store, so look on ebay. I have noticed much smoother shifting using this fluid.
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Bolts are not like up; The dust shield makes flat contact to the old gasket. I believe after changing out t gasket that the pins and the bolts will line up to their places. If not the location of the baring bracket is not corrected. Ideally I need to pull the gasket out in one piece but its not working. What tool is good for this job?
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Greetings thank you for the tips. I was able to get the gasket out of its seat at the trans output. I used a flat head screw driver 5/32 x 4 inch to pry the gasket out, and it worked. I am now to replace the old gasket with a new gasket MN130496. Wondering how I should do this:
1. Pressing the gasket into its seat then insert the shaft or
2. Seating the gasket into the seat at the shaft end then install the inner shaft.
any recommendation?
No.1
Find a 1/2 inch to 1 inch thick piece of wood and cut/make a template of the seal that is slightly smaller in diameter than the seal. Insert the seal into the trans first, then the round wood template and lightly tap the template with a small hammer till the seal is fully seated, starting in the middle, then along the edges of the wood, then again in the middle. Doing it this way ensures that the seal inserts evenly all around. The round wood template protects the seal from being damaged during insertion, but you dont want the wood to get stuck in the trans, hence the need for it to be slightly smaller in diameter.
(I dont like the idea of using a screwdriver or chisel because they can gouge the seal and ruin it.)
As a precaution, be sure to lightly tap on the opposite end of the "inner shaft" when installing to make sure it is fully seated, at which point the mounting holes should line up on the bearing housing.
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Greeting, thank you so much for the tips. I feel with my finger and think the gasket is in . I took a picture of it seating in the transmission. However, the holes are not lined up to the pins, and need to move toward the transmission. The bolts therefore can not catch on the threats. What is holding it up?
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