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Need Help To Find Seal For Inner Shaft Bearing Bracket

1066 Views 24 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Sisyphus58
2
The seal and the bearing are items of Bearing - Mitsubishi (MR388567). The pic are the front and the back of the seal that I want to replace. What type of seal is this called? What I need to know to find it and where?

Thank you


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Outer seal is MB526680, which is included in kit MR388567 if you had chosen to buy it...

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axle seal for transmission is
MN132370
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First of all, since you bought non-OEM parts, there's no way for me to tell if they are correct. If you compare them to the old, you should be able to figure it out. When assembled properly, the seals should not she houstick out of the housing, and thus should not touch/rub on the cup of the axle. The outside ring of the bearing remains stationary when installed, and the inside ring rotates with the axle. Compare the old and new bearings for diameter and thickness. The new one should fit tightly in the housing and approximately centered or halfway into the housing. There may be a ridge inside the housing to keep the bearing from pushing through too far, when installed from the inner side (transmission) rather than outer side (wheel). You should try assembling everything before trying to install on the car, then test that the bearing housing freely rotates independently from the inner shaft and outer axle. If put together correctly, then the housing mounting bolts will align correctly when the inner shaft is completely inserted in the transmission. Since there's no clip on the transmission side on the inner shaft, you just push it in as far as you can till the mounting bolts align with the engines holes. If the complete assembly sticks out too far at the wheel hub, then either your outer axle is too long, or it is not pushed together completely at the bearing housing or at the transmission. I highly recommend replacing the transmission seal also, especially if you had trouble getting the inner shaft out.
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Use your vise to bend the old c-clip back into shape, or bring inner shaft and old c-clip to hardware store to compare and the clerk can figure it out. There is no Mitsu part number for the c-clip because they are universal, just need correct size.
Like I suggested, try re-assembling the inner shaft, bearing housing, seals, bearing, and outer axle on the floor or workbench. Install the seals in whatever orientation allows them to sit flush and that will be the correct position. Don't install the c-clip until you are ready for permanent installation.
So without the c-clip installed, you can check that everything is flush and won't rub.
If the seals don't sit flush, they are the wrong part number. Then you have to return the parts and order the kit.
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Push it into the transaxle till it's fully seated, then tap on opposite end to make sure. Most likely, it is not all the way into the transaxle, which is causing the mounting holes to be misaligned. If you used a new seal for the transaxle, make sure you removed the old one first, as this will prevent the axle from fully seating.
Since you also messed with the seals of the mounting bracket, it is possible that is causing misalignment of the mounting holes also. Any deviation from specs in the seals will affect the overall length, and thus misalignment of the mounting holes.
When fully seated, there shouldn't be any space between the axle and the transaxle.
Try getting the holes aligned WITHOUT the outer axle installed, in other words, install in sections rather than as one complete axle.
This should help you figure out where the problem is.
I guess its not surprising that the seal hardened that much. I would put a piece of cloth in the hole a little bit past the seal to keep the broken seal chunks from getting into the transaxle as you pick and pry at the seal. Maybe have a vacuum handy to suck out the loose bits as needed. Be careful not to gouge the metal where the seal sits or the new seal may leak. Take your time and be careful. Use a variety of picks and flat screwdrivers to remove/pry the seal loose. Its not going to be easy, especially if the car is on jackstands instead of a lift. A flashlight would definitely be helpful. Get the surface as clean as possible so the new seal sits properly.
And dont forget to remove the cloth plug!!!

One thing I failed to mention earlier is that when installing the axle, you have to slightly rotate the axle to align the male splines with the female grooves so that it pushes in easier. Practice this with the outer axle and bearing housing BEFORE attempting installation. This will give you an idea of the finesse needed to fit them together.
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When done, change your transaxle fluid using 3 quarts of Red-Line MT-85, which you probably wont be able find at your local autoparts store, so look on ebay. I have noticed much smoother shifting using this fluid.
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Bolts are not like up; The dust shield makes flat contact to the old gasket. I believe after changing out t gasket that the pins and the bolts will line up to their places. If not the location of the baring bracket is not corrected. Ideally I need to pull the gasket out in one piece but its not working. What tool is good for this job?
View attachment 46007
Greetings thank you for the tips. I was able to get the gasket out of its seat at the trans output. I used a flat head screw driver 5/32 x 4 inch to pry the gasket out, and it worked. I am now to replace the old gasket with a new gasket MN130496. Wondering how I should do this:
1. Pressing the gasket into its seat then insert the shaft or
2. Seating the gasket into the seat at the shaft end then install the inner shaft.
any recommendation?
No.1
Find a 1/2 inch to 1 inch thick piece of wood and cut/make a template of the seal that is slightly smaller in diameter than the seal. Insert the seal into the trans first, then the round wood template and lightly tap the template with a small hammer till the seal is fully seated, starting in the middle, then along the edges of the wood, then again in the middle. Doing it this way ensures that the seal inserts evenly all around. The round wood template protects the seal from being damaged during insertion, but you dont want the wood to get stuck in the trans, hence the need for it to be slightly smaller in diameter.
(I dont like the idea of using a screwdriver or chisel because they can gouge the seal and ruin it.)
As a precaution, be sure to lightly tap on the opposite end of the "inner shaft" when installing to make sure it is fully seated, at which point the mounting holes should line up on the bearing housing.
Are you sure the axle is inserting fully?
Did you twist the axle while pushing to line up the splines on the axle with the splines inside the tranny?
Check the splines on the axle for damage.
You will know when it’s fully seated because the axle cup will be flush against the seal. If you push it in and it’s not flush with the seal, then the splines are not aligned to allow it to go in further. It can be a little tricky to align the splines. Make sure the axle is perfectly horizontal while pushing and twisting.

It is also possible that the bearing housing mount is not put together properly, causing the Mount holes to be further away. You said the holes need to move toward the tranny, right?
Since you took apart that bearing housing and seals. maybe something isn’t seated properly.
Try putting a piece of wood on the ground and holding the axle upright in a vertical position and tapping on the housing to see if it moves downward and thus fully seating the seals. This would have the desired affect of shortening the distance between the spline end and the housing end.
These are the only two possibilities I can think of why the holes wouldn’t align.
I’m betting it’s the splines not aligning, though.
Try practicing inserting the “outer” axle into the bearing housing to get a feel for how to twist/rotate the splines to align. Using a little grease or oil on the splines may help.
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I dont know for sure about the 4 grooves on the transaxle bearing, probably for a removal tool? I was comparing your pics with the video and it looks like that bearing with the 4 grooves is out to far and may need seating further into the housing so that the axle spline end can also go further in. Try using a piece of wood and a hammer to tap it in more. I think it needs to be flush with the housing around it, which you can't see with the seal in place. You may need to remove the seal again carefully to see what I mean. The outside edge of the bearing with grooves sits flush into the surrounding housing. It's possible that it pulled out a little when you removed the axle.

Sorry, don't know the exact measurement specs you asked sbout...

The other possibility is that the center bearing housing brace is flipped/inverted. This might cause the holes to be further away. You would need to take it apart again. You should be able to visually inspect it and determine if the holes would be closer to the transaxle if you turned the brace around. However, I think the brace only mounts one way, but not sure. You should be able to determine that yourself though.

How much more does it need to move toward the transaxle?

And disregard what I said about using grease as it's too thick. Use trans oil or a little anti-sieze instead.
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