Mitsubishi Eclipse 3G Club banner

1 - 20 of 46 Posts

·
Evo IX
Joined
·
1,767 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Everything is together and my cams are dialed in but I seem to have messed up the order the ignition wires go into the distributor. Does anyone have a diagram or can you tell me which cylinder goes where on each side of the distributor?
 

·
Kampfbereit
Joined
·
17,852 Posts
ryu said:
Everything is together and my cams are dialed in but I seem to have messed up the order the ignition wires go into the distributor. Does anyone have a diagram or can you tell me which cylinder goes where on each side of the distributor?
The numbers are right on the distributor Chris. Also check the FSM: http://club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1818

Cylinder #1 starts closest to the belts which is on the rear(left) bank.
 

·
Ah yes...
Joined
·
10,964 Posts
:lol: Like Russ said the numbers are right on the cap for the distributor. Make sure the distributor is at +/- 3-5 Degrees Like it says in the instructions.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,107 Posts
I got a harder question. I removed my distributer for my rebuild. I didn't mark how the rotor goes onto the cap. At top dead center, how should the rotor face?
 

·
Evo IX
Joined
·
1,767 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I followed the labeled numbers on the cap but thought perhaps I made a mistake. I talked with Dave at rpw and he seems to think the distributor timing is off from when it was reinstalled. I need to find cyl 1 TDC and check to see if the distributor ends up pointing at cyl 1 on the distributor cap or not.
 

·
Kampfbereit
Joined
·
17,852 Posts
perna00 said:
I got a harder question. I removed my distributer for my rebuild. I didn't mark how the rotor goes onto the cap. At top dead center, how should the rotor face?
According to the FSM: http://www.fast-4ward.com/3GsvcManual/16.pdf

It looks like you spin the crank so that piston 1 is TDC (observe the markings on the timing belt cover and the notch on the crank pulley) then make sure your rotor is pointed at #1 in the distributor cap.
 

·
Kampfbereit
Joined
·
17,852 Posts
ryu said:
I followed the labeled numbers on the cap but thought perhaps I made a mistake. I talked with Dave at rpw and he seems to think the distributor timing is off from when it was reinstalled. I need to find cyl 1 TDC and check to see if the distributor ends up pointing at cyl 1 on the distributor cap or not.
Get back under the passenger side and do like I was doing before. The timing cover is clearly marked what TDC is and check the notch on the crank pulley. Personally I would not have pulled the rotor off of your distributor to insure that does not happen. Also are you 100% sure that the cam and the distributor blade are matched up properly?! There is only one right way to install that, but you can f* it up if you tried to hard.

Check out the FSM: http://www.fast-4ward.com/3GsvcManual/16.pdf for more information on what I mean under "Ignition".
 

·
Ah yes...
Joined
·
10,964 Posts
perna00 said:
I got a harder question. I removed my distributer for my rebuild. I didn't mark how the rotor goes onto the cap. At top dead center, how should the rotor face?
With a timing light... You crank the motor with the injectors disconnected. Then check whatever BTDC has to be for cylinder 1 and then you have some one move the distributor up and down until its that.
 

·
Kampfbereit
Joined
·
17,852 Posts
Clipse3GT said:
With a timing light... You crank the motor with the injectors disconnected. Then check whatever BTDC has to be for cylinder 1 and then you have some one move the distributor up and down until its that.
That's not really true with this car, the ECU will compensate regardless. Correct me if I am wrong, but I do not recall the use of a timing light in the FSM.
 

·
Ah yes...
Joined
·
10,964 Posts
Tearstone said:
That's not really true with this car, the ECU will compensate regardless. Correct me if I am wrong, but I do not recall the use of a timing light in the FSM.
I think they use a scanner tool from Mitsu. Which non of us can't use to setup timing.
 

·
Kampfbereit
Joined
·
17,852 Posts
Clipse3GT said:
I think they use a scanner tool from Mitsu. Which non of us can't use to setup timing.
Your right, it actually says to go over to 11C-6 for instructions on timing check:

IGNITION TIMING CHECK
M1111001700113
Required Special Tool:
MB991502: Scan Tool (MUT-II)
1. Before inspection, set vehicles in the following condition:
• Engine coolant temperature: 80 − 95°C (176 - 203°F)
• Lights and all accessories: OFF
• Transaxle: Neutral (P range on vehicles with A/T)
CAUTION
To prevent damage to scan tool MB991502, always turn the
ignition switch to the "LOCK" (OFF) position before
connecting or disconnecting scan tool MB991502.
2. Connect scan tool MB991502 to the data link connector.
3. Set up a timing light.
4. Start the engine and run it at idle.
5. Check that the idle speed is approximately 700 r/min.
6. Select scan tool MB991502 actuator test "item number 17."
7. Check that basic ignition timing is within the standard value.
Standard value: 5° BTDC ± 3°
8. If the basic ignition timing is not within the standard value,
check the following items:
• Diagnosis output
• Timing belt cover and crankshaft position sensor installation
conditions
• Crankshaft sensing blade condition
CAUTION
If the actuator test is not canceled, the forced drive will
continue for 27 minutes. Driving in this state could lead to
engine failure.
9. Press the clear key on scan tool MB991502 (select forced
drive stop mode), and cancel the actuator test.
10.Check that the actual ignition timing is at the standard value.
Standard value: Approximately 15° BTDC
NOTE: Ignition timing fluctuates about ± 7° Before Top Dead
Center, even under normal operating condition.
NOTE: It is automatically further advanced by about 5° to
15° Before Top Dead Center at higher altitudes.
But I believe I can see timing with my datalogger as well. Basically ultimately even what that says we are still probably looking at the Crank Angle sensor and that was untouched in this case unless of course it's not plugged in.
 

·
Ah yes...
Joined
·
10,964 Posts
Tearstone said:
Your right, it actually says to go over to 11C-6 for instructions on timing check:



But I believe I can see timing with my datalogger as well. Basically ultimately even what that says we are still probably looking at the Crank Angle sensor and that was untouched in this case unless of course it's not plugged in.
Yeah so either way timing this car is :ghey:

Unless you go full standalone its hard to do it the old fashioned way with a timing light.

So in the end cylinder one is supposed to be 5 BTDC or 15 BTDC ... list two values...

I would assume that the acutual one should be 15 BTDC... :scratch:
 

·
Kampfbereit
Joined
·
17,852 Posts
There is basic ignition timing which is supposed to be 5 degrees +/- 3 degrees. I am assuming this is the mechanical setting which we are discussing now.

The actual ignition timing value is the ECU modifier that it is augmenting with the basic I would imagine.
 

·
Evo IX
Joined
·
1,767 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Tearstone said:
Get back under the passenger side and do like I was doing before. The timing cover is clearly marked what TDC is and check the notch on the crank pulley. Personally I would not have pulled the rotor off of your distributor to insure that does not happen. Also are you 100% sure that the cam and the distributor blade are matched up properly?! There is only one right way to install that, but you can f* it up if you tried to hard.

Check out the FSM: http://www.fast-4ward.com/3GsvcManual/16.pdf for more information on what I mean under "Ignition".
I didnt reinstall the distributor you did. All I did was put the nuts on and tighten it down.
 

·
Evo IX
Joined
·
1,767 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Tearstone said:
Ahh touche. Is the distributor flush to the head, if so then it is installed right. But I never remove the rotor though.

Did you put in a different battery yet?
Yes. Yes.
 
1 - 20 of 46 Posts
Top