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RIPPed
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yes, I'm fixing to put the stage 2 pulley on....but I need to know the proper way to get the stage 1 pulley off (i.e., how do you break the nut free without the shaft turning.)

Also, what is the proper procedure for raising your fuel pressure? Mine is sitting around 49 psi, and I'd like to raise it to 52 psi. Thanks.
 

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to take the bolt off without turning the shaft you need to use two wrenches/ratchets one to hold the shaft in the SC side and the other to loosen the bolt. As far as taking the pulley off you are supposed to pry it off using two screw drivers, it's kindda hard though. To raise the FP, take the locking nut off from the FPR then loosen the nut after this tighten the bolt to raise FP or loosen it to drop FP, you are supposed to raise/drop the FP with the car off but everybody does with the car running, it's easier.
 

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Kampfbereit
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Trev, I'm thinking the most optimal way is to use an air impact to get the SDS pulley bolt off.

The FPR instructions came with the SDS kit, you were supposed to set it to around 50psi at idle the first time after starting your car for the first time. Simply remove that chrome cap, and adjust it from there with the car idling.
 

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Vortech > VTEC
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Tearstone said:
Trev, I'm thinking the most optimal way is to use an air impact to get the SDS pulley bolt off.
Actually, getting the bolts off isn't difficult. You just need sockets at each end to keep the shaft from turning while you work. The difficult part is using the screwdrivers to get the pulley off. It just takes time and patience.
 

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Kampfbereit
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slavetothemuzic said:
Actually, getting the bolts off isn't difficult. You just need sockets at each end to keep the shaft from turning while you work. The difficult part is using the screwdrivers to get the pulley off. It just takes time and patience.
Sounds sort of barbaric to have to use screwdrivers to get the pulley off, but whichever works I suppose :dunno:
 

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Vortech > VTEC
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Tearstone said:
Sounds sort of barbaric to have to use screwdrivers to get the pulley off, but whichever works I suppose :dunno:
:agreed: It's not the most elegant yeah...but it does work.
 

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RIPPed
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Tearstone said:
Trev, I'm thinking the most optimal way is to use an air impact to get the SDS pulley bolt off.

The FPR instructions came with the SDS kit, you were supposed to set it to around 50psi at idle the first time after starting your car for the first time. Simply remove that chrome cap, and adjust it from there with the car idling.
It was at 50 psi when I first started the car, but now its more like 49. In thread about my "puffing" sound, you said that if the ceramic part of the spark plug is still white I am running lean...and mine is still white after right at 1000 miles. I was gonna raise the fuel pressure a bit to see if that helped....will it?
 

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RIPPed
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
And what stops the nut on the supercharger side from moving when I'm doing this dual socked technique....b/c I noticed they have that nut marked with black marker to see if you have be messing with it I guess.
 

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Kampfbereit
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TrevMill said:
It was at 50 psi when I first started the car, but now its more like 49. In thread about my "puffing" sound, you said that if the ceramic part of the spark plug is still white I am running lean...and mine is still white after right at 1000 miles. I was gonna raise the fuel pressure a bit to see if that helped....will it?
Hrmm... how did you end up installing your fuel pump?

Unfortunately, with that whole grey/black box thing... I honestly don't know what is going to help short of being able to see what is actually going on with the electronic vs. physical side. The way it 'seems' is that the Grey/Black box in combination with the ECU would be self defeating if you tried to mess around with your fuel pressure. Although, there is nothing in the book that says you have to be at 50lbs of pressure, they just stated that most cars would be somewhere around that ball park.
 

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Kampfbereit
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TrevMill said:
And what stops the nut on the supercharger side from moving when I'm doing this dual socked technique....b/c I noticed they have that nut marked with black marker to see if you have be messing with it I guess.
To be honest w/ you, I would give Angelo a call and ask them how they recommend doing it.
 

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In order to take off the pulley from the drive shaft:

Use a strap wrench with a rubber belt with grooves. Once you have that locked onto the pulley, use an open end wrench to loosen up the bolt. Than use a puller(outside puller), but be very careful not to mar it up.

Make sure you do not lose the keyway.

Put the new pulley on, pressing it in very evenly and slowly so it doesn't bind up. Use the strap wrench to tighten it back up. If you need a little force, i recommend using a rubber mallet or a piece of wood infront of the pulley and a hammer.

To raise the fuel pressure:
At idle, turn the fuel pressure regulator clockwise, until you see the fuel pressure rise to where you want it. Make sure you keep it between 45-58 psi.
 

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I Don't Belong Here
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At work (I'm an elevator mechanic) when we are changing small bearings (~ 3 inches) we place the bearing on a 100 watt light bulb for about 1/2 hour prior to installing it.

When you are going to install your new pulley, you may want to try this. The hole in the pulley will expand a bit making it easier to slide onto the shaft. Remember to be wearing gloves when you pick up the pulley to install.
 

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Disillusioned
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Quest said:
At work (I'm an elevator mechanic) when we are changing small bearings (~ 3 inches) we place the bearing on a 100 watt light bulb for about 1/2 hour prior to installing it.

When you are going to install your new pulley, you may want to try this. The hole in the pulley will expand a bit making it easier to slide onto the shaft. Remember to be wearing gloves when you pick up the pulley to install.

Did something similar when installing a pully on my power steering pump a few years back.
I put the new pump in the freezer and the pully in the oven @ about 150 deg.
After about 20 min the pump (shaft) was cold and the pully was 'uncomfortably warm', but not 'insta-brand-your-skin' hot. It slipped right on without even using any tools. Let it sit for about 1/2 hour to cool down and it was good to go! :twothumb:
 
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