New member - Long time Eclipse owner

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WhiteSpyder

Discussion Starter · Aug 25, 2021

I came to this site a few days ago to research a problem I have been having. I'll let you know later if what I learned worked out. I have owned my 2001 Spyder GT since 2005. I bought it used for a commuter car. Apparently it came from Las Vegas. It had been a rental car before it was sold at auction when it's lease expired. After I retired I kept it. It has needed some attention over the years. The suspension got to where it was pretty pounded. I upgraded mine to Koni adjustable shocks. A stiffer sway bar was also added to that package. In it's rental days someone curbed the right two wheels. So during the upgrades they were replaced as well. Now 17"X8.5" with Dunlop rubber is now in place. I am a retired old guy, so the engine is stock. Going to hang around this site for a while and see what pointers I can pick up. ...J.D.

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Sisyphus58

· #20 · Jan 27, 2022 (Edited)

WhiteSpyder said:
Took the GT in for a smog inspection today. It PASSED ! ! Makes me feel good that I sorted it out. It had not been licensed since 2017. It is still a work in progress. Needs some A/C work. I think it will need a clutch sometime in the future, and I want to add a modern sound system. I also got it's alarm system and door locks working this month. Had a second key made but need to look into progamming it. ...J.D.

If you only have one programmed key now, you will need a dealer or locksmith to program another. When I bought my GT, it came with only one key but I found a local locksmith to program another at a much cheaper price than the local mitsu dealer. Once you have two programmed, you can program a third by yourself. If I were you, I'd call the dealer to get their estimate, then call some locksmiths to find a better deal. IIRC, I only paid about $30 to get one cut and programmed, plus the cost of the correct key from ebay (~$10).
I keep an unprogrammed spare key in my wallet in case I lock my keys in the car, while my second programmed key is locked in a safe at home.

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Sisyphus58

· #23 · Feb 22, 2022

WhiteSpyder said:
Now that the Spyder is up and running, I have some time to work on other things. I wanted to get this thing back on the road this winter too. Just started tearing it down today. Hope to use it this summer and give my other one a rest. Too many toys--Not enough time. ...J.D.
View attachment 44674

I once rebuilt a basket case Kawi Vulcan in the middle of my living room in an apartment complex, ground floor of course. Apparently one of my neighbors snitched on me and the manager threatened to evict me, but instead I offered to fix her son's minibike for free and promised I wouldnt store my bike indoors once it was finished. I really miss the days that you could bargain with people...now everyone is so unreasonable. LOL

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Sisyphus58

· #32 · Feb 28, 2022

WhiteSpyder said:
No offense. Just not real good with the idle chit-chat. No apology required. I am more of a tech than a people person. ...J.D.

You two should get a room so you can kiss and make up!!! LMFAO

But back to car talk...I highly recommend using RedLine MT-85 when you change your transaxle fluid. It hits the "sweet spot" for the 3G manual trans, being right between 80 and 90w, and pretty much is a substitute for the "Scott Grey mix" that everyone here used to recommend. Definitely smoothed out my shifting when I switched to it two years ago.

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Sisyphus58

· #36 · Mar 1, 2022

WhiteSpyder said:
I always wanted to do a Triumph chopper. The closest thing I have to that is THIS one. It is a 2002 Triumph America that I have owned since 2012 [I think]. It is the 790cc air cooled. Lots of aftermarket and some home made pieces. Runs great. Probably one of the most reliable bikes Triumph has ever made. But would like to do a chopper based on a motor like this. ...J.D.
View attachment 44689 View attachment 44688

I almost pulled the trigger on a custom 650 Bonnie chopper that had the frame with the integrated shock springs on either side of the axle rather than typically mounted shocks. Combined with a nice spring mounted leather seat, it actually road pretty well over bumps, but it had an overly-extended front end that I didn't like the handling feel, so I passed on it.

As for my transaxle fluid recommendation, I actually did a bit of research both here and other forums, and some contact with Mitsubishi. IIRC, 90w is the recommended weight, but as with engine oil, that can be adjusted to account for driving conditions and ambient temperature. Dropping down from 90 to 85w is not going to significantly affect parts protection level, but it does make it easier and smoother to shift, especially in extreme cold climates. You used to only have a choice between 80 and 90w, but Redline came out with the MT-85 to fill the niche of trannys similar to the 3G, with additives that are not harmful. I was told that it was specifically made for the 3G tranny. Can't say for sure if that's true, but I can vouch for the results. I also read somewhere about someone doing an oil analysis with positive results. But to your point, it is NOT as readily available and typically goes for like $20/quart, but hey, nobody is changing their transaxle fluid that often to make this choice cost prohibitive. As a disclaimer, I should mention that at the time I switched to Redline, I also installed a short shifter and new poly shifter mount bushings, but even so, the most noticable difference is better cold weather shifting, which I can definitely attribute to the fluid alone.

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Sisyphus58

· #56 · Mar 27, 2022

Widgmaster said:
I understand that @jelazar... but if I get a set of wheel well flares that will close it in somewhat. From what I have read the flares close in the gap but I will continue to search for information before I do anything. Also ...I may cut an inch out of the OEM spring and that will lower it just a touch and in combination with the flare, I believe I'll end up with the look I have now.

there aren't any wheel well flares out there that I have been able to find, as that was my first choice in solving the gap issue. You would have to fab your own. I'm gonna be replacing my oem springs with Tein S-tech progressive springs, which are suppose to be close to oem, but shorter, or so they claim. I'm sticking with oem replacement struts, though, so I'll let you know how that combo works out. I remember you had an issue with going over speed bumps, so I suggested that you try a stiffer setting on your KYB AGX struts, which I thought helped, but now you're saying your not happy with your setup. It sounds like you need to go with a softer setting and just deal with the occasional speed bump. I almost bought a set of KYB AGX to go with the Tein lowering springs, but for now I'm just changing the springs and see how it goes, along with a new ST swaybar.

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Sisyphus58

· #58 · Mar 27, 2022 (Edited)

Widgmaster said:
It,s been many months since I drove my car because it is in storage. I want to bring it home and then we get a big blast of snow again. It rained here for a few days which was perfect because it washed away all the salt. Then the snow came and they talked about more plus colder temperatures. I may have to leave it in storage for one more month. The KYB-AGX struts and Tein s-tech is what I have and you have seen the picture of my ride height. I changed my rebound setting to three as you suggested. If I recall correctly it did help with the speed bumps but on the main road, it seems a bit stiff. Anyways I will have to see and feel what's up when the car comes out of storage. About the fender flares, are you aware of the ones I have added a link to? What is an ST swaybar...Add a link so I can check it out, please.

Duraflex® - Shine Style Fiberglass Front and Rear Fender Flares (Unpainted)

Shine Style Fiberglass Front and Rear Fender Flares by Duraflex®. Set of 4 Pieces. Duraflex 100123

www.carid.com

just google "ST swaybar #51194"
its a thicker and stiffer rear anti-sway bar that is adjustable (two different mounting holes on each end) and goes for around $200

Those Duraflex fender flares do not look like they would reduce the gap (extend downward from curved fender line) between top of tire and wheel well. Nor do they look like they "flare" outward to accommodate wider tires, thus they seem to be merely cosmetic rather than serving a functional purpose.

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Sisyphus58

· #60 · Mar 27, 2022

Widgmaster said:
Thanks for the link to that swaybar... Turns out it is from a Canadian website and a lot more money than you thought. I did find the strut tower braces tho and they are not cheap either.

View attachment 44789

go to: mbenzgram
then type in "ST 51194" in the search bar and the item pops up for you to choose and add to your cart for $199,
then when you go to your cart, it will deduct 10% automatically, so your total is about $180 with free shipping worldwide and no tax. I bought mine from them and it shipped within two weeks. This is the best price you will find and the bushings are included.

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