[Widgmaster]

Could you imagine the drain on the hydro company if everyone had an electric vehicle? It would blow the grid and we would be back in the stone age. Pretty soon everyone will be building the free power unit from a car alternator... Lots of free videos of how to make this on youtube. My friend just built one for recharging car batteries.

 

[WhiteSpyder]

My point exactly. In California we have problems not having enough capacity already. These silly politicians just want to sweet talk the public. As a retired stationary engineer, I know they are going to be HARD PRESSED to come anywhere near what they are promising. And they do not like to talk about what the electric bills would look like. They are already "selling the idea" of a 3 tiered billing rate based on "time of use" complete with bogus savings charts. RIGHT. I "opted out" of that plan at BOTH my homes. How stupid do they think we are ? ...J.D.

 

[WhiteSpyder]

Well starting to use the Spyder more. I am starting to experiment with the settings on the shocks. Mine [Koni] only have adjustments on the rebound rate. Ride height and spring rate are fixed. If I set the front shocks stiffer than the rear, I get oversteer. If I set the REAR stiffer than the front, I get understeer. Still trying to figure out what I want. Decided to set both front and rear to 1/2 turn and drive it a bit. ...J.D.

 

[Widgmaster]

I am only one week away from bringing my car home from storage...I am very excited, to say the least
I installed the KYB-AGX adjustable struts which have a setting from one to four...I really don't notice much change between these settings. Could be I'm just numb in the butt or using Tein lowering springs may screw up the settings.
I am debating purchasing coil overs but not sure of which set to get. I will do a search here before I ask this question...

 

[WhiteSpyder]

I still use the stock springs with Koni inserts. These can adjust four turns, [no clicks]. They come with a little knob you can put on the top of the shock to make adjustments. My thinking was to stay with the stock springs because I had not changed the weight of the vehicle any. Besides, the Konis are calibrated for the stock spring rates. I did not need the car to be any lower.. Even a 1/2 turn adjustment makes quite a difference with the Konis. She is faster in the corners than I will EVER use on the street. I am just trying to find the feel I like. ...J.D.

P.S. Some of the racers I have talked to say "KYB stands for Kill Your Back". Is it true ?😮

 

[Widgmaster]

I can't really say what KYB stands for but I don't like them. I wanted to lower the car and I got the look I want but I guess that comes with a price. I feel everything on the road. Not happy and that is why I'm thinking I should get the coilovers.

 

[WhiteSpyder]

I know I will probably get a lot of negative comments for saying this, but I don't think coil overs are the best thing for that application. Everyone seems to want to stiffen this car up. I don't believe that is what it needs unless you are going to race it. Mine is a bit stiffer, but the big thing is controlling spring rebound. The other issue is lessening roll [sway bar]. I was shooting for a driver's car. People lower these cars, but it is just for "the look". Center of gravity is low enough already. You have to use a shock that is compatible with the stiffness of your spring rate. My son races autocross. The really serious competitors have thier shocks re-valved and tuned to match the springs they put in...J.D.

 

[jelazar]

I read about a zillion posts, articles, and testimonials, trying to decide between coilovers and lowering springs. Everyone says something different about coilovers vs lowering springs, and I think it depends on their priorities (ride quality, handling, and looks).

I needed to replace the original OEM shocks anyways, and I wanted the car to keep a nearly-OEM feel because it's my DD. I wanted a slightly lowered look, but not "slammed", and I definitely did not want it to feel like I was on a covered wagon going over railroad tracks all the time. In other words, I wanted to lower it some but not at the expense of ride quality.

In the end I read too many posts here that said "The single worst thing you can do for ride quality is install coilovers." That pushed me over the edge and I went with lowering springs. The ride is about the same as OEM, as best as my uncalibrated butt can tell. I set my KYB AGXs to 1 or 2.

 

[WhiteSpyder]

I would actually like the rear of mine 1-2" lower and de-cambered a bit and leave the front stock. Trouble is all the lowering springs I see are stiffer than stock. I could do it the old school way and take the rear springs out and cut an inch or two off. This would bring up another handling issue. Lowering only the rear would increase the kingpin inclination in the front. Mine sits kind of "stinkbug" but I think I am going to quit while I am ahead. She handles great. ...J.D.

 

[Widgmaster]

If you compare the wheel gap on mine to yours J.D you will know why I feel every bump in the road. It's the look I wanted. It's just barely taller than a pop can.

 

[WhiteSpyder]

If you compare the wheel gap on mine to yours J.D you will know why I feel every bump in the road. It's the look I wanted. It's just barely taller than a pop can.

The ride height on mine has not been changed. Our roads here are not too good. We have some serious dips at a lot of intersections, so I did not lower mine. It IS somewhat stiffer with just the shocks changed. I set my shock rebound to just 1/2 turn toward firm the other day, both front and rear. I am going to leave it for a while and try it out. You might consider a compromise by going back to stock springs and keeping your KYB's ...J.D.
View attachment 44781

 

[Widgmaster]

Gee... Thanks for the tip J.D. I never thought of that... I will have to order a new set of originals cause I tossed out the old stuff. Thanks again... you may have saved me a ton of grief and money.

 

[jelazar]

Gee... Thanks for the tip J.D. I never thought of that... I will have to order a new set of originals cause I tossed out the old stuff. Thanks again... you may have saved me a ton of grief and money.

Yes, but if you go back to OEM springs you're going to have the large OEM wheel gap. Even if you have KYB AGX struts and shocks.

 

[Widgmaster]

I understand that @jelazar... but if I get a set of wheel well flares that will close it in somewhat. From what I have read the flares close in the gap but I will continue to search for information before I do anything. Also ...I may cut an inch out of the OEM spring and that will lower it just a touch and in combination with the flare, I believe I'll end up with the look I have now.

 

[WhiteSpyder]

All things are a compromise. You and only you can decide where you want to go with it. I opted to live with the gap to keep some ground clearance. When I was a young man living in the Los Angeles area and out cruising at night, I would have it slammed for sure. These days, this car is my personal car. I need a little comfort. I drive it maybe every week or two, I live in a semi rural area where the roads are not too good. Again,,,everything is a compromise. ...J.D.

 

[Sisyphus58]

I understand that @jelazar... but if I get a set of wheel well flares that will close it in somewhat. From what I have read the flares close in the gap but I will continue to search for information before I do anything. Also ...I may cut an inch out of the OEM spring and that will lower it just a touch and in combination with the flare, I believe I'll end up with the look I have now.

there aren't any wheel well flares out there that I have been able to find, as that was my first choice in solving the gap issue. You would have to fab your own. I'm gonna be replacing my oem springs with Tein S-tech progressive springs, which are suppose to be close to oem, but shorter, or so they claim. I'm sticking with oem replacement struts, though, so I'll let you know how that combo works out. I remember you had an issue with going over speed bumps, so I suggested that you try a stiffer setting on your KYB AGX struts, which I thought helped, but now you're saying your not happy with your setup. It sounds like you need to go with a softer setting and just deal with the occasional speed bump. I almost bought a set of KYB AGX to go with the Tein lowering springs, but for now I'm just changing the springs and see how it goes, along with a new ST swaybar.

 

[Widgmaster]

It,s been many months since I drove my car because it is in storage. I want to bring it home and then we get a big blast of snow again. It rained here for a few days which was perfect because it washed away all the salt. Then the snow came and they talked about more plus colder temperatures. I may have to leave it in storage for one more month. The KYB-AGX struts and Tein s-tech is what I have and you have seen the picture of my ride height. I changed my rebound setting to three as you suggested. If I recall correctly it did help with the speed bumps but on the main road, it seems a bit stiff. Anyways I will have to see and feel what's up when the car comes out of storage. About the fender flares, are you aware of the ones I have added a link to? What is an ST swaybar...Add a link so I can check it out, please.

Duraflex® - Shine Style Fiberglass Front and Rear Fender Flares (Unpainted)

Shine Style Fiberglass Front and Rear Fender Flares by Duraflex®. Set of 4 Pieces. Duraflex 100123

www.carid.com

 

[Sisyphus58]

It,s been many months since I drove my car because it is in storage. I want to bring it home and then we get a big blast of snow again. It rained here for a few days which was perfect because it washed away all the salt. Then the snow came and they talked about more plus colder temperatures. I may have to leave it in storage for one more month. The KYB-AGX struts and Tein s-tech is what I have and you have seen the picture of my ride height. I changed my rebound setting to three as you suggested. If I recall correctly it did help with the speed bumps but on the main road, it seems a bit stiff. Anyways I will have to see and feel what's up when the car comes out of storage. About the fender flares, are you aware of the ones I have added a link to? What is an ST swaybar...Add a link so I can check it out, please.

Duraflex® - Shine Style Fiberglass Front and Rear Fender Flares (Unpainted)

Shine Style Fiberglass Front and Rear Fender Flares by Duraflex®. Set of 4 Pieces. Duraflex 100123

www.carid.com

just google "ST swaybar #51194"
its a thicker and stiffer rear anti-sway bar that is adjustable (two different mounting holes on each end) and goes for around $200

Those Duraflex fender flares do not look like they would reduce the gap (extend downward from curved fender line) between top of tire and wheel well. Nor do they look like they "flare" outward to accommodate wider tires, thus they seem to be merely cosmetic rather than serving a functional purpose.

 

[Widgmaster]

Thanks for the link to that swaybar... Turns out it is from a Canadian website and a lot more money than you thought. I did find the strut tower braces tho and they are not cheap either.

 

[Sisyphus58]

Thanks for the link to that swaybar... Turns out it is from a Canadian website and a lot more money than you thought. I did find the strut tower braces tho and they are not cheap either.

View attachment 44789

go to: mbenzgram
then type in "ST 51194" in the search bar and the item pops up for you to choose and add to your cart for $199,
then when you go to your cart, it will deduct 10% automatically, so your total is about $180 with free shipping worldwide and no tax. I bought mine from them and it shipped within two weeks. This is the best price you will find and the bushings are included.