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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
:hspin: I finally got my car started after the upgrade. After buttloads of troubleshooting it turned out I got a bad walbro 255. I put my stocker in and she started right up.

I had oil and fuel leakage right away. I took the manifold back off and put the injectors back in more carefully and primed the ends with oil and the leak went away...kinda. I see no leak but I smell fuel right near the back of the manifold. Can I get new o-rings for these injectors? Or did I forget something?

Finally got the oil leak to stop leaking from the filter. I got the new GReddy oil block adapter and it came with two black rings. I assumed those went between the filter and adapter but that just made it leak. Took those out and used the ring supplied with the filter and that leak stopped. My OBA is still leaking a little bit. My oil pressure gauge reads around 60-75psi while idle(~1K rpms). Is that high? Do those two rings go elsewhere?

Once my leaks are fixed what break-in procedure should I follow? ...as far as the ecu learning, simple eManage tuning, miles to drive before tuning.

I just want to thank everyone for all your help. :bowdown: You make it possible.
 

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Kampfbereit
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Kobalt82 said:
:hspin: I finally got my car started after the upgrade. After buttloads of troubleshooting it turned out I got a bad walbro 255. I put my stocker in and she started right up.

I had oil and fuel leakage right away. I took the manifold back off and put the injectors back in more carefully and primed the ends with oil and the leak went away...kinda. I see no leak but I smell fuel right near the back of the manifold. Can I get new o-rings for these injectors? Or did I forget something?

Finally got the oil leak to stop leaking from the filter. I got the new GReddy oil block adapter and it came with two black rings. I assumed those went between the filter and adapter but that just made it leak. Took those out and used the ring supplied with the filter and that leak stopped. My OBA is still leaking a little bit. My oil pressure gauge reads around 60-75psi while idle(~1K rpms). Is that high? Do those two rings go elsewhere?

Once my leaks are fixed what break-in procedure should I follow? ...as far as the ecu learning, simple eManage tuning, miles to drive before tuning.

I just want to thank everyone for all your help. :bowdown: You make it possible.
The o-rings go between the adapter and the stock oil filter screw in point. The oil filter has it's own oil fitting built into it :)

Just drive it easy for a few hundred miles to make sure your bearings are broken in smoothly, but beyond that your fine. Follow the tuning guidelines in that piggyback thread at the top of the forum, if you don't understand what is written there then take your car to a professional tuner that has a dyno & wideband.
 

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Kampfbereit
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Kobalt82 said:
Thanks Russ. How about my oil pressure? I understand thats high. I'm sure my gauge could be wrong. Is 60-75psi at idle something worry about?
That does seem quite a bit high, what RPM is that at 60-76psi? You should be at about 25~30psi after operating temp.

Tip: To test for leaks, unplug your crank angle sensor harness and crank the engine about 4-5 cranks and use a flashlight to look for leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
From a cold start - start the engine - rpm's bounce around between 500 and 1500 rpms for about 6 seconds - while the rpms bounce so does the oil pressure 40-80 - after the rpms settle down at around 900 the oil pressure settles down at 65 or 70. The longest I've run her is a few minutes, not even long enough to warm up. once I fix my leak I can run her longer to see if it goes down. At this point I am leaning towards the gauge not working right. I did have to extend the wire from the sensor to reach the gauge. This may have some affect on it. The gauge is an Autometer Cobalt Mechanical pressure gauge.
 

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A note about the Greddy oil block adapter: you only use one ring - use the one that fits the original filter mount best, and that side faces up toward the engine block - you want the flat side of the adapter facing the filter.

For the injector o-rings, you can get those pretty cheap at the dealership.

Oil pressure will go up and down with engine load, so that should be normal. The RPM bounce may be the ECU trying to correct itself, which should settle down over time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Dude, no way. Aww hell. Then thats my problem. I put the oba on with the GReddy facing upright. But by doing that it made the flat side of the oba against where the filter would normally screw onto. Ok so I need to flip my oba?

So the filter will now use its ring it came with and press against the flat side of the oba. Then the oba will use a ring and press against the block.

Yeah, the ecu hasn't had but maybe a total of 15 minutes to learn so I'm sure it just needs to run a while. But the oil pressure thing is weird because the car has only been running on jack stands. No load has been given.
 

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***Suspended Seller***
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Congrats on the boost man! Hope everything is working out for u. Not everything willl go smooth as we can see. But congrats man =)
 

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Congrats! Looks damn pretty to me already. Do you have a datalogger? It is very helpful, and in my opinion, completly necessary to get things dialed in for idle and cruising.

Watching the short and long term fuel trims will clue you in as to what the ECU is doing in terms of adding/removing fuel. That's really the "learn period" you mention. You can then dial in your emanage to make it nice and happy. Not to mention being able to view and record timing, load, air and coolant temps, etc.
 

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Kampfbereit
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Kobalt82 said:
Dude, no way. Aww hell. Then thats my problem. I put the oba on with the GReddy facing upright. But by doing that it made the flat side of the oba against where the filter would normally screw onto. Ok so I need to flip my oba?

So the filter will now use its ring it came with and press against the flat side of the oba. Then the oba will use a ring and press against the block.

Yeah, the ecu hasn't had but maybe a total of 15 minutes to learn so I'm sure it just needs to run a while. But the oil pressure thing is weird because the car has only been running on jack stands. No load has been given.
Yeah improper OBA install could be why your oil pressure is so high.
 

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stupid booster
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why does it say in the service manual that oil pressure at idle should be 29kPa (4.2psi) and seems like everyone is saying the oil pressure at idle should be 20ish psi
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I flipped my oba and it's doing better. Still a tiny leak (5 minutes running and 2 drops). Since I was able to keep her running for a lot longer I noticed that my oil pressure eventually went down to 40 and then 25 and stayed. If I just tap the gas it will jump to 70 psi and then back down to 25-35psi. I think it's okay. :)

So my setup is pretty similar to a lot of other's. As far as tuning is there a baseline I can adjust my dials to at least get on the road? I dont have logging but I now think I'm going to get one.
 

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SPYDEY MF!
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not a pretty sight yet? are you crazy? Shit thats gorgeous! haha. The only thing you need to do now is get a better lookin set of wheels slapped on her. man I wished I could afford boost. Good luck with it bro.
 

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Thats looks gorgeous. I wish i could afford boost. Since your car is a GT did you change the internals or you running with the stock internals, how much PSI you running???
 
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