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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I purchased a 2004 Spyder GT about 6 months ago. Since then I have replaced the starter, Radiator, Spark plugs, Wiring, One O2 sensor, Two oil changes and pretty much all fluids topped off/changed.

My problem right now is that when I start the car I hear a metal grinding sound. It sounds like a small motor. I thought it was the convertible top motor making a sound at first but it's not.

It doesn't happen all the time but when it does the check engine light immediately turns on.

I had 3 different places run diagnostics and every time it said that my O2 sensor heater was bad.

I had the O2 sensor replaced, light went out and everything was fine when I went to the mechanics to pick it up. I got in, started the car and here came the grinding sound. Light came BACK on so I went inside to let the mechanic know.

He hooked the computer up again and it said the O2 sensor he just replaced was experiencing the same error.

I also notice the brake light and battery light will randomly flash sometimes. It's not often but it's frequent enough to worry me.

I have had the errors cleared multiple times but the light always comes back on with the same error.

I don't know if the O2 sensor and the grinding sound are related but it even had the mechanic stumped as that is the only error the car is reporting.

What kind of small motor is even located in the rear of the car?

Anyway,
If anymore information is required I would be more than glad to supply it. This is just driving me crazy.

Thanks in advance for any help.

*Edit* I forgot to mention that the grinding sound does not happen when driving, turning, or doing anything else. It only makes the sound right when I start the car and for about 3-4 seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks

Thanks for the replies. Do you think that the fuel pump could also be causing the bad O2 error?

Also, it couldn't be a power antenna because it doesn't have one.

Thanks guys!
 

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(b)org banugee
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It's possible that problems with your fuel pump are causing other electrical issues with the car. Some of the sensors are sensitive. Usually the canary in the coal mine there is the crank position or cam position sensor, not an O2 sensor.

Check not only the pump, but the electrical contacts to it, especially its ground.
Check the grounds on the engine. There's one back by the firewall that gets brittle.

It would help to know exactly which code is on.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey

I honestly don't remember the code. I just know they said it was something to do with an O2 sensor heater.

I will try the options you listed and see what happens.

Thanks again for your help everyone, much appreciated.
 

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2011's are gay
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the grinding noise has nothing to do with the o2 sensor. you might need a new battery, i would suggest the duralast gold from autozone, they are awesome, i ran my radio for well over 8 hours and car started right up like nothing happened. as for the grinding noise, is it coming from up front? either your starter isn't engaging instantly and you need a new battery or starter or you might be missing some teeth on your torque converter. if it is coming from the rear then i would guess it's the antenna or it might be the fuel pump. those are the only things in the rear that move when you start the car so they are the only things that make sense. i would put money on the antenna, have someone sit right by it and listen when you start it
 

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(b)org banugee
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I think we have two separate problems here. There's an electrical fault that is probably a bad ground, or perhaps a bad battery or alternator.

Then there's the common and harmless fuel pump gurgling noise that's been talked about many, many times.

Do this: Take a piece of reasonably heavy gauge wire (about 1 meter in length) and crimp an eyelet terminal on both ends. Connect one end to the bolt near the intake plenum near where the O2 sensor plugs are located by the distributor. Connect the other to the bolt which holds the negative battery terminal clamp closed.

Also, check or replace the ground wire that goes from the plenum by the Manifold Differential Pressure Sensor to the firewall.

Clear codes.

Then see if it comes back.

Also -- check to see if your mechanic actually replaced the correct sensor. The only way to know is to get the code.
 

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I like citm2000's idea about changing the ground wire. I may do this to my car now! If you don't have the tools to make one, you can go to Autozone (or similar) and ask them for a "generic ground strap from the Dorman/Help section" - this one: Dorman Products - 60213

you might need a new battery, i would suggest the duralast gold from autozone, they are awesome, i ran my radio for well over 8 hours and car started right up like nothing happened.
Yes, they're awesome, because they're made by the same company (Johnson Controls) that makes Interstate Batteries (my preference)

Also -- check to see if your mechanic actually replaced the correct sensor. The only way to know is to get the code.
Sad but true :( I would also check to make sure the wire to that sensor didn't melt on the exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks

Thanks a lot for the information, everyone.

I will try this stuff out and see where I end up.

When I get things figured out I will post back and let everyone know what was going on in case someone else has this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I think we have two separate problems here. There's an electrical fault that is probably a bad ground, or perhaps a bad battery or alternator.

Then there's the common and harmless fuel pump gurgling noise that's been talked about many, many times.

Do this: Take a piece of reasonably heavy gauge wire (about 1 meter in length) and crimp an eyelet terminal on both ends. Connect one end to the bolt near the intake plenum near where the O2 sensor plugs are located by the distributor. Connect the other to the bolt which holds the negative battery terminal clamp closed.

Also, check or replace the ground wire that goes from the plenum by the Manifold Differential Pressure Sensor to the firewall.

Clear codes.

Then see if it comes back.

Also -- check to see if your mechanic actually replaced the correct sensor. The only way to know is to get the code.

I had found the information already about the fuel pump gurgling sound. I went ahead and asked anyway because it doesn't sound like gurgling to me, it sounds like metal grinding against metal.
 
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