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Mitsun00bi
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone. Forum n00b here. I've searched all over this forum and Google and every post about the reverse lights not working were about the manual trans version of the Eclipse. I have a 2002 Eclipse GT 3.0 auto and both reverse lights are not coming on. Bulbs are good, fuses are good. No relay specific to the reverse lights so the only other issue I assumed it could be was the switch. In at least one or two of the forums, someone mentioned that the manual trans has the backup light switch separate whereas the auto trans has the back up switch built into the neutral/safety switch. Is this true? $15 for reverse light switch vs $50 for neutral/safety switch. Holy crap that's some BS. Anything else I can try/check to determine why the reverse lights will not come on?

That would be issue #1. Issue #2 is that every time I disconnect the battery, the car is taking forever to relearn and I don't think it ever fully does. It will eventually idle normal after somewhere near a month's time but it will continue to slip into neutral for about a second before upshifting between 2nd and 3rd gears. That 1 second high rpm revving between 2nd and 3rd is really annoying. It did not stop doing this until I took it in to the local dealer here and all they told me was that it had to relearn. Well no shit but it's been a month! What did they do in a day's time that was different than what I have been doing driving normally for a month? Is there some magic procedure to get it to relearn properly in a day? FYI, I have headers on it that use a block plate on the EGR pipe so I'm sure this has something to do with the length it takes to relearn idle speeds properly but not the shifting issue. Any suggestions? Also, when the car first starts after sitting overnight to this day, it will start, drop rpm for a second to a point where it almost shuts off then jump back up to normal. Does this three times then idles normal for the rest of the day. Also, any idea how to get it to ignore the EGR fail code besides removing the block plate and using a breather? Thanks in advance, everyone.
 

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Mitsun00bi
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Wow no one has anything? :(

Well I swapped out the neutral/safety switch from a 2000 in the junkyard and there was no change so I put the original back in. I noticed a couple times since it has been in the low temps (been below freezing for the last month or so) that the driver side reverse came on but it has been sporadic. I guess there must be a short in the wire somewhere. Anyone got a wiring diagram for the lights?
 

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Did you ever resolve this? My reverse lights aren't working either. My left reverse light housing has some corrosion on the connector, so I'll get something to dig that out and try my light again, however the right one looked pretty clean. I haven't checked my fuses, but will check that. Anyway, let me know if you resolved it, and what you did to resolve it. So I know steps to take.
 

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9 out of 10 times if your reverse lights are not working. There is a sensor on the top of the trans (between the battery and block you can see it looking straight down. Replace that sensor.
 

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Wow no one has anything? :(

Well I swapped out the neutral/safety switch from a 2000 in the junkyard and there was no change so I put the original back in. I noticed a couple times since it has been in the low temps (been below freezing for the last month or so) that the driver side reverse came on but it has been sporadic. I guess there must be a short in the wire somewhere. Anyone got a wiring diagram for the lights?
I had the same problem when I bought mine used. My parts guy replaced that sensor mentioned above, and problem solved. Just confirming it haha :p
 

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Mitsun00bi
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Did you ever resolve this? My reverse lights aren't working either. My left reverse light housing has some corrosion on the connector, so I'll get something to dig that out and try my light again, however the right one looked pretty clean. I haven't checked my fuses, but will check that. Anyway, let me know if you resolved it, and what you did to resolve it. So I know steps to take.
I checked wiring at the bumper and see no corrosion or connection issues so it's gotta be farther up in the car. I'm just not going to worry about it for now. Once it is warmer out again I'll get in and do some wire testing or maybe take it somewhere that has a tool that reads Mitsubishi's SWS as it may actually be saying where the issue is.

9 out of 10 times if your reverse lights are not working. There is a sensor on the top of the trans (between the battery and block you can see it looking straight down. Replace that sensor.
I had the same problem when I bought mine used. My parts guy replaced that sensor mentioned above, and problem solved. Just confirming it haha :p
Maybe I just had a faulty sensor from the junkyard too. It was an older Diamante so maybe it just didn't meld well even tho it's the exact same sensor. I'm actually going to hit up the junkyard again this weekend for my other car so I'll see if there any 3Gs in there. I'm hoping that's all it is as that's a only a couple bucks at the yard.
 

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Mitsun00bi
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So issue has been resolved. Funny that it was the little metal prongs inside of the bulb connectors that were the issue the whole time. I tapped into the wiring and had good voltage all the way to the connector so I tried neutral/safety switches from two 2003 Lancers, another 2002 Eclipse and a 2002 Galant (as well as the Diamante switch that I had already put in there) with no change. I took the bulbs out and sprayed the connectors with some CRC/MAF electrical cleaner, waited for them to be dry and put the bulbs back in. No change. As I dropped the connector against the bumper in exasperation I noticed the bulb flicker for a second.:scratch: I pick the connector back up and flick the bulb base a few times and ta-da! Bulb lights up. So apparently the thin metal inside the connectors were just too loose or needed any of the crud inside broken free to make a better connection. Put the old neutral/safety switch back in and still works. That's all it was. Good thing the only money I spent was the few dollars to get in the junk yard to pocket those switches. What a pain in the a$$.
 
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