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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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7,180 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm trying to figure out the difference between 2 different Bosch made oxygen sensors. 2 different (and possibly applicable) versions are available from AdvancedAutoParts but I'm not sure which one to use. Here is their info:

Bosch #15730
Universal Type; 4 Wire; Heated; Upstream Sensor; Two required; M/T; Check / Replace Interval: 100,000 Miles
While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com

Bosch #15733
Universal Type; 4 Wire; Planar; Upstream Sensor; Two required; A/T; Check / Replace Interval: 100,000 Miles
While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com

Now common sense tells me that since I have 5spd and our sensors are the "heated" type that I should be using the #15730. However, when I asked the sales guy if they had a Bank1 Sensor 2 in stock for my car (2001 V6 M/T) he gave me the #15733 sensor. Looking through my old sensor boxes it looks as if they have sold me the #15733 style sensor several times in the past as well. It seems that I have had one O2 problem off and on for about a year so its getting REALLY annoying. Anyone know for sure which model # I should be using? Also, is there a difference between the sensors?? I mean the RIPP SDS instructions only give 1 set of measurements for testing the O2s so it makes me think that they are al the same. Thoughts? Any and all advice is welcome.

*And before someone says it I do realize that the OEM sensors are more accurate but I've been replacing O2 sensors like twice a year and using the more expensive OEM ones is not an option at the moment.

Some more good info to know would be:
- Are the black plugs for the primary/upstream sensors (sensor1) or for the secondary/downstream sensors (sensor2)?

FWIW, I have a 2001 GT 5-spd and am only using Bosch sensors. I am currently throwing a P0139. I am also throwing a P0300 even though I just replaced the sparks and wires. I'll try replacing the distrib rotor and cap this w/e but I'm thinking the P0139 and the P0300 may be related... as they appeared at the same time. I do realize that the P0139 is Bank1 Sensor 2 and the P0300 is random cyl misfires. I usually get the P0300 after accellerating quickly and then letting off the gas. The SES lights up about 1sec after letting off the gas pedal.

Any questions just ask. Thanks.
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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7,180 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
This, I can help you with. The black plug is the upstream sensor, grey is downstream.
:yesway: Thank you much good sir! I thought that was the case and that is what the SDS instructions say but I have been having a hard time finding that info in the FSM.



Surely someone here is using Bosch O2 sensors and can add some related info to this thread!!! I have searched.... many many times.
 

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Fossilized Member
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1,206 Posts
According to Rockauto, 15730 is the upstream sensor and 15733 is the downstream sensor. So it seems you may have a downstream sensors in the upstream position.
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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7,180 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I'm certain there is a difference between the two, why else would they have to different part numbers for them, and Mitsubishi go to the trouble of color coding the two plug for them.
I meant is there a difference between the Bosch sensors. They are both listed as being a rear sensor for the Eclipse. I dont see why they would have 2 different types of rear sensors for the same car. It doesn't look like either was cancelled or end of life either. I'm not sure why they would have a sensor that is specific to the automatic tranny and then manual tranny specific sensors either.

I know there is a difference between a rear and a front sensor. Also, anyone happen to know the difference between a "heated" O2 sensor and a "planar" O2 sensor? Seems that Bosch offers both types for both trannies.... WTF is going on here???
 

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Fossilized Member
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1,206 Posts
ok, sorry I misunderstood.

Did you look at the sensors listed at rock auto? according to them, they are not two different rear sensors. one is upstream and one is downstream. Advanced auto parts may have them listed wrong. I also dont think the sensors are different between the two transmissions. I can check to see if mitsubishi lists different part numbers between the two transmission.
 

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Fossilized Member
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ok, I just looked up sensors from Mitusbishi, there only selection criteria is between the different year and sub-model. No transmission selection is considered. So, if it doesn't matter to Mitsubishi which transmission the car has, then I dont see why Bosch would make a designation between the two.
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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7,180 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
So it seems you may have a downstream sensors in the upstream position.
I agree. Looking back at the links I provided it even says that the #15733 is an UPSTREAM O2 sensor. JESUS FUCKING CHRIST!!!! This is not the 1st time that they have sold me the wrong sensor either..... I'm going back to return one of them today and I'll be sure to piss in the back corner just to help spread the headache.

:twitch: Sorry, this is just so frustrating. My car has been "down" for a month+ due to this shit. I have missed 3 or 4 3G meets due to it (I've yet to make one because I am always busy fighting a code). Who knows how many of my previous and current SES codes are due to this. I'm willing to bet that my P0300 is related to having the wrong O2 sensor installed as well. Good thing I spent all last w/e replacing my plugs and wires :uh:

FWIW, I tripped a P0300/P0139 on my way back from lunch. I pulled over and cleared the codes then I unplugged both of my grey O2s (rears) and started the car. It drove better than it had in weeks. Gotta be an O2 issue. Time to break out the DVM (again). I may just replace all 4 sensors at once to ensure I kill this sensor confusion.
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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7,180 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
ok, I just looked up sensors from Mitusbishi, there only selection criteria is between the different year and sub-model. No transmission selection is considered. So, if it doesn't matter to Mitsubishi which transmission the car has, then I dont see why Bosch would make a designation between the two.
I dont see why Bosch would either... but they do. They also have "planar" and "heated" types... I'm totally lost on what the difference would be between those two. In addition they make all of these different sensor with AND without the OEM harness plug. After some searching I see that the "planar" type supposedly warms up to operating temps within 10 seconds... which seems to be a newer design.

I think I am going to buy the following:
(2) Front: 15730
(2) Rear: 15733 ?????

Now I see that AdvancedAutoParts lists TWO listings for the #15733... One says upstream in the description and the other says downstream.... for fucks sake. I need to find a better parts store than these shit bags. I'm definately ohming the sensors right there in the store before I pay for them this time. LOL, I have lost ALL faith in them. What a PITA.
 

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V8 > 3G
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2,717 Posts
FWIW, I have a 2001 GT 5-spd and am only using Bosch sensors. I am currently throwing a P0139. I am also throwing a P0300 even though I just replaced the sparks and wires. I'll try replacing the distrib rotor and cap this w/e but I'm thinking the P0139 and the P0300 may be related... as they appeared at the same time. I do realize that the P0139 is Bank1 Sensor 2 and the P0300 is random cyl misfires. I usually get the P0300 after accellerating quickly and then letting off the gas. The SES lights up about 1sec after letting off the gas pedal.

Any questions just ask. Thanks.
hmm it seems like we're having the same problem although my scan tool indicates that i'm having a cylinder 4 misfire. same symptoms with the SES light after hard accellerations... i replaced my bank one upstream sensor about 2 weeks ago and no longer am throwing a code for that so i don't believe the codes are related. my ignition system only has about 30k on it so im thinking a fuel injector may be the problem. keep us updated on your progress fixing the issue.

btw does your car bog down after you get back into the throttle after hard acellerations due to the misfire?
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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7,180 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
btw does your car bog down after you get back into the throttle after hard acellerations due to the misfire?
Yes, but its much more pronounced at lower speeds (or rather lower RPMs). I also checked the resistance of my injectors and they all fell within spec (most being right at 14.5Ohm). All of my wires are new and within spec too.

My misfire issue seems very weird. If I clear the codes the car runs GREAT for about 5-10mins. Eventually the misifire code pops on and as long as that SES light is on the car will continue to misfire and bog. If I pull over, reset the code, and then drive the car runs great again. So it really seems like there is nothing REALLY wrong with the car.... almost like the car is fine until a particular sensor warms up or goes through its duty cycle and then BAM I get the code and lose power.

We have freezing rain today but I am going to try and pull my O2s and inspect them... I have a feeling my problem lies there. If that doesn't work then I have a new distrib rotor and cap arriving today so I will try to get those installed. I wish my SES would state which cylinder was having the misfire.... I'm guessing the fact that it can't pinpoint the issue means its coming from bad ditributor rotor contact or an oxygen sensor. Those are the only things I can think of that might cause a "random" misfire that isn't really that random...

I'm still very curious about these Bosch sensors so if anyone knows what model they are using I'd love to hear about it.
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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7,180 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I replaced the O2 sensor (Bank1 Sensor2) with the 15733 Bosch sensor and cleared the code. The P0139 came back after a restart and a 5 mile drive. WTF!!!!!!!? My only other guess is to replace Bank1 Sensor1 as well.
:ugh2:

No P0300 yet.
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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7,180 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Here is an easy question.... When testing the resistance (ohms) of an O2 sensor should that be done with the sensor cold, at room temp, OR with the car running and O2 heaters/sensors up to normal running temp? I ask because I am getting low readings on ALL of my sensors and I'm wondering if it is due to the cold weather (around 30-40F).

My measurements using a Fluke 189 DVM:
Upstreams: 3.5-3.8 ohm
Downstreams: 9-10.8 ohm.
*The only O2 code I have is P0139 (O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 2)). I may also have a P0300 (hasn't come back yet after being cleared).

The Ripp instructions for checking resistance say:
upstreams: 4-6
downstreams: 11-13

The FSM instructions for checking resistance say:
upstreams: 4.5-8
downstreams: 11-18
 

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Moderator
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54,424 Posts
resistance is a bad way to check sensors, and only tells you if the heater is working or not. with the car on watch the voltage flip back and forth from the sensors. you can google up and read about O2 sensor signals, bias voltage, etc.
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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7,180 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
resistance is a bad way to check sensors, and only tells you if the heater is working or not. with the car on watch the voltage flip back and forth from the sensors. you can google up and read about O2 sensor signals, bias voltage, etc.
Many thanks Bitter!
silly erep system said:
You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to Bitter again.
I'll read up on that this w/e. Not sure why the FSM and Ripp (to a lesser extent) would suggest checking the resistance though? Do you think checking the resistance would damage the sensor itself or its just not accurate? Maybe those questions will be answered when I google... lol.
* I have ripp headers so I have had to extend my O2 wiring (by about 3-4 feet) in order to reach the sensor bungs. I did check resistance between the non heater wires to ensure there were no shorts. All was ok @ 0L (no shorts).

As for "watch the voltage flip back and forth from the sensors":
Where do I check the voltage and with what? Are you talking using a DVM and backprobing the sensor harness (plugged in), unplugging the sensor and using a DVM, or by using software/tactrix cable? I do not have access to a MUT.

I see in the FSM that it states this code is caused by voltage drain from B1S2 to B1S1 after the engine has turned off (or something similar)... I have some spare front O2 sensors (2 or 3) so I'm thinking of replacing my B1S1 to see if that has an affect. I would have already done this but all those sensors are ohming out under the specified 4-6ohm. They are all around 3.5-3.8 (hence my question about under which enviroment the sensors should be ohmed out).

I'm about ready to :blowup: this car!

I'm open to ALL ideas. I'm trying to take this time to brainstorm as it is snowing/sleeting outside. I need to be prepared with a plan of attack before I go out in that :crap: to replace sensors and what not (no garage/shelter).
 

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CURRENTLY AFK
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334 Posts
Everything you say explains the same problem I had after installing my Hytech headers (5 mins after code reset etc.). I eventually replaced a front o2 sensor and had the sensors rewired. That solved the problem.

On a side note...
Have you considered installing an o2 simulator for the rear banks? Your tag says you have a 01 so you probably don't have a fed spec. Its a inexpensive solution to having rear o2 sensors.
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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7,180 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Everything you say explains the same problem I had after installing my Hytech headers (5 mins after code reset etc.). I eventually replaced a front o2 sensor and had the sensors rewired. That solved the problem.
I'll try replacing the front O2. If that doesn't work I guess I'll try reversing the heater wires on the rear sensor and see if that has any affect (doubtful).

On a side note...
Have you considered installing an o2 simulator for the rear banks? Your tag says you have a 01 so you probably don't have a fed spec. Its a inexpensive solution to having rear o2 sensors.
I used to have a baker's electronic sim for the rear O2s. I ditched that for mechanical sims (spark plug non foulers) and hadn't had codes for awhile. Thanks for the tip though!
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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7,180 Posts
Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
So I had verified that my B1S2 sensor was in the correct exhaust bung, and that it was wired to the grey passenger side harness, then replaced my rear O2 with a new Bosch 15733 sensor. The P0139 remained. Today I replaced the B1B1 sensor, disconnected the battery, relearned idle, shutdown, restarted and went for a 20min drive trying to replicate the drive cycle listed in the FSM (35-40mph for 120secs @ 25-75% load). No SES as of now.

I'll be relieved if the SES is gone but pissed that the code was related to the front sensor and not the rear one. That just seems fuct up.

If the code comes back I'll remove the right bank sensors and use the torch/DVM method suggested in Bitter's link to test their output voltages. I tried checking them via Evoscan but it wasn't working properly.

:edit:
P0139 came back. No P0300 yet :yesway:. I'm wondering if an ehaust leak near the O2 could cause this as I saw an exhaust gasket about 2" from the sensor was rusty and looking pretty beat up. Ill replace that and reset one more time before torching the O2s. FWIW, the car was running great until the SES flashed on. I felt a reduction in power immediately. I was cruising @ 25-35mph and @ 40% throttle or so and probably 3rd gear.
 
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