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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I thought my head or gaskets might of been blown but under closer inspection my car is infact burning oil...

havent done a compression test yet but I had blown rings before and the oil smoke usually acumulated during idling then puffed out when I gave it gas.. This current oil burning problem that I have now puffs bluish tint white smoke usualy when I start up the car (fills up the street with smoke behind me) and once it burns gets to operating temp then big puffs randomly while acelerating or just idling..

I was wondering if maybee my oil was leaking from my turbo through my downpipe and burning it up because my oil drain line ends up being horizontal for a few inches because of how the x tech kit is made.. anyone know how to make the oil drain more "gravityish"?

and does the symptoms explain sound like oil from leaky turbo? and what steps would someone take to check to see if its not the turbo just so I dont have to waste money on a compression test :scared:

thanks in advance
 

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You can get a compression tester for 10-15 bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
sounded hard but I guess its not.. just looked it up online.. I already own the compression tester so shoulnt be that hard... discounect the distributor, take out all the plugs, disconect the fuel injecors and hold the tube in the spark plug hole and crank 4 times and get the reading on the 4th crank... :twothumb:
 

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Lance Corporal
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No need to do all that stuff. Unplug the crank position sensor, this stops spark and fuel, and remove the plug to whatever piston you want to check. Screw in the tester and have someone watch the gauge while you turn the motor ove and when the needle stops rising, that is your compression.The CPS is the triangular plug on the accessory end of the engine on the top. it is connected to the intake manifold on a bracket. The bracket also has the plug for the knock sensor on it. If you need a pic tell me and Ill get one.

Edit: Just like that article says as a matter of fact. You got that up while I was typing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
McLarenross said:
No need to do all that stuff. Unplug the crank position sensor, this stops spark and fuel, and remove the plug to whatever piston you want to check. Screw in the tester and have someone watch the gauge while you turn the motor ove and when the needle stops rising, that is your compression.The CPS is the triangular plug on the accessory end of the engine on the top. it is connected to the intake manifold on a bracket. The bracket also has the plug for the knock sensor on it. If you need a pic tell me and Ill get one.

Edit: Just like that article says as a matter of fact. You got that up while I was typing.
is the CPS the little sensor thats behind the alternator that lets a metal disk run through it and the harness is on the oposite side of the throttle body?
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
yea thats the one im talking about..

i know which one it is cuz mitsu had a recall on it and I changed mine out because the wire rubs on the beltssometimes and eventualy cuts off and you end up stranded :/ :D

great info none the less, makes it way easier to check the compression now :twothumb:

now its only a 1hr long job : plentum: :scream:
 

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New daddy
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When doing a compression test you also need to block the throttle completely open, unless you remove the plenum. The air needs to easily enter the combustion chamber when testing.

Also, where is your oil drain located? If the return is below the oil level in the pan, then the oil will not be able to drain away from the turbo easily. This would cause oil to pass by the turbo oil seals and enter the exhaust and possibly the intake. The excesssive oil, could also damage the turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
fasteclipse00 said:
When doing a compression test you also need to block the throttle completely open, unless you remove the plenum. The air needs to easily enter the combustion chamber when testing.

Also, where is your oil drain located? If the return is below the oil level in the pan, then the oil will not be able to drain away from the turbo easily. This would cause oil to pass by the turbo oil seals and enter the exhaust and possibly the intake. The excesssive oil, could also damage the turbo.
im hoping its just the turbo.. id rather buy a nice new turbo instead of doing a ring job :eek:

the oil feed is the highest on the oil pan as possible.. just the way the pipping is on the xtech the drain tube ends up being horizontal to reach the drain nipple since the turbos drain nipple is so low.. so it ends up being not as gravity friendly as it could be.. i dont know if that is enough to back up my oil and burn it.. im sure someone has some xtech kits here with suggestions on how to rout your drain tube :idea:
 

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Kampfbereit
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Like I said before, you will burn oil if you tap your lower black oil pan for the return instead of the upper next to where the dip stick goes in.

You can get creative about routing your oil drain back in, even if it's horizontal it still won't cause you to burn oil out of the seals on your turbo as long as you have the return tapped in the right place.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
yea I didnt tap the black part of the oil pan.. I taped it close to where the oil dipstick goes.. im about to a compression test right now.. lets seee..


k new question.. do I have to reconnect the plentum to check the compression of each individual cylinder under the plentum? or can I leave the plentum detached and check each cylinder?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
6g72 said:
yea I didnt tap the black part of the oil pan.. I taped it close to where the oil dipstick goes.. im about to a compression test right now.. lets seee..


k new question.. do I have to reconnect the plentum to check the compression of each individual cylinder under the plentum? or can I leave the plentum detached and check each cylinder?

checked the front 3 before my battery died (tried 6 times since I forgot to hold the throttlewideopen so killed the battery for the rear 3)

all read from 145psi to 150 in the front.. is that normal?

hopefully the turbo is the one leaking :eek3:
 

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Kampfbereit
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6g72 said:
checked the front 3 before my battery died (tried 6 times since I forgot to hold the throttlewideopen so killed the battery for the rear 3)

all read from 145psi to 150 in the front.. is that normal?

hopefully the turbo is the one leaking :eek3:
You should be measuring 180 accross all of your cylinders.
 

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What were your results?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Tearstone said:
Can I interest you in a race block :lol:
you sell pistons?

im thinking some commetic gasket from you and pistons either from ripp or you if you carry them. Then some nice high boost and a good tune :eek3:
 

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Kampfbereit
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6g72 said:
you sell pistons?

im thinking some commetic gasket from you and pistons either from ripp or you if you carry them. Then some nice high boost and a good tune :eek3:
Right now we only offer the race blocks which is the end result of what you are going to do if you buy pistons anyways (assuming you build your engine properly). Not to say we won't ever offer pistons.

I do NOT recommend buying 91.1 pistons to simply swap them out with your existing ones like it's a bolt on part :nono:

Shoot me over an email at [email protected] let me what you need and we can work something out for you.
 
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