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My snail is bigger!
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm in the process of installing my SDS Tuner kit (stage 1) and I was wondering if it's really necessary to tap the upper oil pan for the return line? Wouldn't I just be fine if I tapped the upper portion of the lower oil pan? I've seen several SC applications where they just tap the upper portion of the lower oil pan. I know this question has been answered before but usually people will tap the middle section of the lower oil pan and then they'll encounter problems.

I really don't want to go through the trouble of removing the upper oil pan because it looks like a real pain in the ass.
 

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My snail is bigger!
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the photo, I guess I'm just going to take everything appart. I have three more days to get my car running and I'm making good progress so :twothumb:
 

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My snail is bigger!
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Discussion Starter #6
My major problem is going to be moving the downpipe out of the way. I have a catback welded directly to my catalytic converter, so I can't remove the downpipe entirely. There is a large section of flex pipe there so I figure I can just push it out of the way once I disconnect it from both pre-cats.
 

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Rulez said:
Pre-cats? You are running the SDS with the stock exhaust system?
He's ordering the SDS (or I think on order already), and just prepping his car for the install.

WarmAndSCSI, you are getting headers, right?
 

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My snail is bigger!
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Discussion Starter #10
I'm installing the headers a few days after the SDS is installed. It's just the stage one kit and my exhaust is already free-flowing so I don't think it will be THAT big of a problem. I won't be boosting until I get the headers installed with the wideband fitting any way.
 

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Kampfbereit
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WarmAndSCSI said:
I'm installing the headers a few days after the SDS is installed. It's just the stage one kit and my exhaust is already free-flowing so I don't think it will be THAT big of a problem. I won't be boosting until I get the headers installed with the wideband fitting any way.
The stock exhaust is not free flowing enough unless you had a federal emissions spec system. The precats will cause an issue where too much heat builds up in your heads which will surely lead to a busted piston.
 

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I'd have to agree - get the headers on there first. Besides, it would be easier to put the headers on if the SDS kit is not in the way. I'm sure you are eager to get your car boosted, but its better to wait and get it done right first rather than rush in and go boom.
 

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Do not run the SDS without headers. Do you have them already? If you do they are easy to install and a O2 bung can be welded on while it is on the car. Why would you want to wait to install them?
 

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Also, The oil pan is not a big deal. It just takes time. I only removed the top pan. I did not remove the lower pan from the top pan, however I cleaned it VERY thoroughly. If you are trying to do things in stages so your car is not down for a long period of time, do the headers, the oil pan, fuel pump, fpr, wiring runs, gauges, spark plugs, washer bottle, fan shroud, etc., then install the SDS. You really do not want to half-ass this install.:nono:

And, I really suggest you use Franchise's washer bottle mod, it works great and you can still use Tearstone's awsome billet cap. :fever:

Remember, Ripp system requires a learn in period. If you are using his BB then you will want to have the headers installed during that period, otherwise your completely changing your tune...volumetric efficiency. I just recently install mine, take your time and follow all procedures as Ripp's instuctions state. The section on setting fuel pressure, blow off valve, O2 checks are extremely important to your success.
 

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My snail is bigger!
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Discussion Starter #16
I have RPW headers that have a downpipe that will need to be welded to my current exhaust system. I have to get this SDS installation finished before I can drive to get these headers installed.

I already have every other upgrade done (spark plugs, injectors, fuel pump, eManage Ultimate).
 

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My snail is bigger!
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Discussion Starter #17
Another off-topic question: do you think an experienced exhaust welder can just disconnect my old down pipe (with a saw) with the old manifolds and test-fit the new downpipe and weld the flange in front of the main cat where it needs to go? How many inches of play do I have here? I would rather drive to an exhaust shop, have them prepare my new downpipe, bring everything home and install it myself.

I would really like these headers to be installed by myself because a Utah shop probably won't be involved in removing the two pre-cats even though my vehicle isn't registered in Utah. So if I can have everything ready to bolt up, that would be excellent.
 

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My snail is bigger!
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Discussion Starter #19
Will I have access to the bolts that hold the stock manifolds on the engine with the SDS shaft in place? I can't quite tell if I could still get to the top bolts from the bottom of the car.
 
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