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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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I assume you meant to say "O" ring. That would certainly explain your idle problem. It probably did not show any code either. I do not believe it would in a case like that. Well NOW are you going to start DRIVING that thing ? Mine has been mostly parked this summer. A few trips up the hill. Gas is about $5.85 gal. still, and it has been brutally hot so we do not go very many places this year. Not what I had planned when I put it back in service in the spring. It gets it's turn out of the garage now and then, but the last few times up the hill we had a lot of supplies to carry so we used one of the larger vehicles. Anyhow, yours looks good :cool: ...J.D.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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566 Posts
A bit of technical information on this for those not familiar with the workings of the throttle bodies of these engines. This screw sets the base air intake setting [thus the base idle speed]. I read a lot about idle speed issues with these engines. This is the place you should look first if you have a high idle condition. The throttle plate is fully closed at idle, and this bypass port is how the fuel/air mixture reaches the engine until the throttle is opened. Vacuum leaks can affect idle speed but it would have to be in a place where ALL the cylinders are affected equally [air plenum], otherwise the vacuum leak would just result in a rough idle or stalling. There is a factory base setting for this screw [1 1/2 turns]. Once the screw and it's "O" ring are properly in place and adjusted, the ECU will take over and establish the correct idle during the fuel trim reset sequence, providing the idle servo mechanism is not faulty. ...J.D.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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566 Posts
I know my 2001 has at least it's 3rd EGR solenoid in it [143,000miles]. They do not seem to last. I suspect they are prone to heat failure. Fortunately, they are inexpensive. Might be cool to have the hood louvered a bit, like the early hot rods. It would help lower the under-hood temperature and if done nicely, it looks cool as hell. ...J.D.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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566 Posts
Yeh...They have always been expensive. I feel they are one of those things where less is more. Too many louvers quickly becomes ugly. I would like a small patch of louvers on my hood between the two "speed bumps". A tasteful touch of them can look great. The under-hood temp on these V-6s can get pretty high. ...J.D.
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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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566 Posts
I've got my eye on a carbon fiber hood with louver on driver side near front to feed air to intake. I'm negotiating a paint job to save money from not having to paint the hood so I can afford the CF hood
I don't care for the carbon fiber look myself. I think the car looks unfinished. If I louvered my steel hood, I would paint it to match the car. Just my opinion, I know. ...J.D.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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566 Posts
I'm at 94K with the original solenoid, so your experience is making me paranoid enough to consider replacing mine BEFORE it goes bad.
I'm also on the original clutch and timing belt, alternator and starter, but have new ones of each just waiting for me to get motivated when this heatwave ends.
I live in a very hot climate, which might contribute to the failures. But at 143k my clutch is original. I did the timing belt, water pump, and all the accessory belts shortly after I retired in 2008. The car does not get a lot of use. I have also resealed the upper part of the engine [valve covers, spark plug tubes], installed most of the emission controls new.
...J.D.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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Need to find and fix the leak, then fill and repurge the coolant. If you have water going out, you have air coming in. ...J.D.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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When I worked in the garage business, I noticed there are some cars that are hard to get the air out of the cooling system. Sometimes I would have to raise the front of the car way up and leave the purge tank open while I ran it because air would get trapped down in there somewhere. Also make sure the heater is on full hot so the coolant pushes all the air out of there too. Can be a challenge at times. ...J.D.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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You might also consider replacing your radiator cap. How old is it ? I remember a few years back I replaced mine. The engine would not draw back coolant from the recovery tank when the engine cooled down. The spring just wore out in it due to age. If it solves your problem, you are not out much. Cheap fix. ...J.D.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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Boy oh boy... Do I feel like a dummy... The original rad has the fins running horizontally, whereas the Mishimoto has them vertically… My friend explained to me that the top part of the Mishimoto rad acts like an expansion tank. When I fill the rad to the top of the neck, it has no room to expand, so it pukes it onto the road. I took the car for a drive and the gauge goes to the three-quarter mark and then drops to the halfway point. I got the car out on the highway and all is okay. By the way...you don't have to agree with my comment about feeling like a dummy.
The system SHOULD have an expansion tank like the original. You should not have an air gap IN the radiator. Expansion tanks are actually "air separators" designed to purge air out of the system. Running without one you are risking rust and corrosion building up in your aluminum radiator and engine. NOT GOOD. This improvement was made standard on cars the early 70's. ...J.D.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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If these systems are working properly, the expansion tank should be partially full [between the high and low marks] and the radiator should be completely full. If there are no leaks or air in the system the level in the expansion tank should rise and fall as the engine is brought up to running temperature and cooled when shut down. The siphon tube should at all times be submerged below the level in the expansion tank. If there is any air in the system, it should bubble up from the siphon tube and be dissipated within the expansion tank. Bleeding the system should be start with the radiator fully filled, cold, the heater core turned on, the radiator cap fitted tightly and a quantity of coolant in the expansion tank so it cannot suck air back into the radiator. When finished the tank level can be trimmed to the proper level when all the air is depleted from the system. I usually put mine car up on ramps so the air will rise to the top. ...J.D.
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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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Nothing to rip apart ! Just fill the radiator completely full and fill the expension tank about 1/2 full. Put the rad. Cap back on and start it up. Let it idle and warm up. The bubbles will come out in the expansion tank. That simple. ...J.D.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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You still need to make sure that radiator is FULL. Any air in there will lead to corroding your cooling system. Fill it right to the cap. Any extra will go into the expansion tank where it belongs when the engine warms up. You will get some bubbles when the coolant goes into tank. That is normal and correct. Put about 1/2 tank in the expansion tank to start. As air is purged out of the radiator there has to be some coolant in the tank to replace the air in the radiator when the engine cools. When it stops bubbling out air, make sure the level in the expansion tank is between the high and low marks on the side of the tank. I usually check it again a couple of times in the next couple of hot-cold run cycles. OR do it your own way. It is your car. ...J.D.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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Can I put a THEORY out there ? [Don't beat me up if it does not work]. You just said you are using plain water instead of coolant. Water has a boiling point of 212°f. as we all know. Above that it turns to steam. Steam has a spacial volume of 1600 times that of water. Could it be that when you shut it down some of your water flashes to steam in the hotter parts of the engine and over pressurizes the system ? 50/50 coolant has a boiling point of [I think] about 265°. It's expansion rate is also much less. I'd try filling it with the 50/50 the same way is said before and see what happens. That after all is what the system is designed to have in it. Anyhow...BE CAREFUL friend. Take it from an old maintenance engineer, that used to work on boilers, water flashing to steam is nothing to fool around with. ...J.D.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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Temp stays pretty stable while an engine is running, but when you shut it off you are no longer disapating engine heat through the radiator. The heat of combustion in the upper part of the engine heat soaks into the water jackets causing the coolant temperature and pressure to rise. If you are using plain water to test that system, there is a real possibility some of that water in the cylinder heads could be flashing to steam causing it to overflow. ...J.D.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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It happens. I was beginning to wonder if the thermostat was installed correctly. I used to own a Dodge truck that would allow the temp to rise way above setpoint before the thermostat would finally open and cool it down. I used an old hot rod trick and drilled a 1/8" hole in the thermostat to allow a trickle of coolant through. That solved it. It was a design flaw on that style engine [no coolant bypass port]. ...J.D.
 
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