Mitsubishi Eclipse 3G Club banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

Registered
2005 Spyder GT
Joined
713 Posts
I bought an upper intake and had it chrome powder coated...I had a fast idle problem and I was sure it was because of the biss screw. Turns out I was right. I could have just replaced the biss screw and O ring but I wanted to dress up the engine bay a little more. You have to admit the results are beautiful..
View attachment 45325
Hey, maybe you could commission Bansky to graffiti paint your car and then enter it in shows???
 

Registered
2005 Spyder GT
Joined
713 Posts
I've got my eye on a carbon fiber hood with louver on driver side near front to feed air to intake. I'm negotiating a paint job to save money from not having to paint the hood so I can afford the CF hood
 

Registered
2005 Spyder GT
Joined
713 Posts
I know my 2001 has at least it's 3rd EGR solenoid in it [143,000miles]. They do not seem to last. I suspect they are prone to heat failure. Fortunately, they are inexpensive. Might be cool to have the hood louvered a bit, like the early hot rods. It would help lower the under-hood temperature and if done nicely, it looks cool as hell. ...J.D.
I'm at 94K with the original solenoid, so your experience is making me paranoid enough to consider replacing mine BEFORE it goes bad.
I'm also on the original clutch and timing belt, alternator and starter, but have new ones of each just waiting for me to get motivated when this heatwave ends.
 

Registered
2005 Spyder GT
Joined
713 Posts
I do have an overflow tank... I agree with you men that the rad should be full, with all the air expelled. Right now, the level is just above the connecting tubes and every thing seems to be okay. I would hate to have to rip it apart again because I just installed new sensors and thermostat. Maybe I have no choice but to redo my work?
No, you probably got the air out already. Just warm up and check for leaks and good heat, and that temp needle doesn't go above halfway. If heat isnt good, try doing a heater core flush by disconnecting both hoses at firewall, then flush in each direction for about five minutes each with running water from a garden hose letting it drain onto ground. Don't use too much water pressure, though. You can add a flush solution into the core and let it sit for a while to help clean the core, then flush again with water. When your done flushing, add 50/50 coolant to the inlet side to push out the water until coolant starts draining from the outlet. Then reconnect hoses. Priming the core with coolant helps keep the mixture correct and reduces air bubbles. You may have to burp the system again and refill. Then check your heat, which should now be hotter than before.
 

Registered
2005 Spyder GT
Joined
713 Posts
I did what you guys have said. Filled the rad (just water) to the top of the neck and the overflow to the cold mark. The gauge shows it gets to the three-quarter mark and then drops to just below half. Then, when I stop, it pukes out onto the road. Has done this repeatedly ... I have no clue why this is happening. When I changed out the intake, that got rid of my fast idle and the car runs really well other than spilling out the coolant.
Ok, I might be mistaken about this, but I seem to remember another post about what rad cap to use with the Moshimoto rad. I think someone said they were having trouble with the cap that came with the Moshimoto rad.
For just a few bucks, changing the rad cap might solve your problem. For what it's worth, my car has NEVER gone above halfway on the temp guage, and I'm still on the factory rad @93k.
(Now of course I probably just jinxed myself...LOL)
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top