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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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I'm at 94K with the original solenoid, so your experience is making me paranoid enough to consider replacing mine BEFORE it goes bad.
I'm also on the original clutch and timing belt, alternator and starter, but have new ones of each just waiting for me to get motivated when this heatwave ends.
I live in a very hot climate, which might contribute to the failures. But at 143k my clutch is original. I did the timing belt, water pump, and all the accessory belts shortly after I retired in 2008. The car does not get a lot of use. I have also resealed the upper part of the engine [valve covers, spark plug tubes], installed most of the emission controls new.
...J.D.
 

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2001 Spyder GT
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I thought about having my intake polished but the cost was too much. He gave me a guesstimate of $400.
I spoke too soon on my update. The code P0403 came back. The exhaust recirculation is insufficient and has disabled the EGR.
 

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2001 Spyder GT
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
The check engine light is out, but now I have a new problem. My car seems to be running hot... The gauge shows the temperature getting into the danger zone, but then it drops. The fans are coming on, but I’m leaving a little puddle of antifreeze every time I park? I believe Murphy Law is at work. I fix one problem and the another arises. Any. Ideas...
 

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2001 Spyder GT
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You'll need to figure out whether it's overheating because its leaking; or, leaking because it's overheating. Also, assuming your coolant level is full, does it run hot all the time, or only when you're slow or stopped?
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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566 Posts
Need to find and fix the leak, then fill and repurge the coolant. If you have water going out, you have air coming in. ...J.D.
 

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2001 Spyder GT
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
There is no leak. Only when I stop or park. I parked the car on an incline, so the rad was at a higher level, and let it run... Lots of air did come out. I let it run a good half hour in the driveway and all was good. Then on the way home, the gauge showed it running hot, but it would always drop back to a decent temp when the fans kick in. Then, when I park, it wants to puke out the antifreeze. Would this happen if my heater core is plugged?
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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When I worked in the garage business, I noticed there are some cars that are hard to get the air out of the cooling system. Sometimes I would have to raise the front of the car way up and leave the purge tank open while I ran it because air would get trapped down in there somewhere. Also make sure the heater is on full hot so the coolant pushes all the air out of there too. Can be a challenge at times. ...J.D.
 

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Would this happen if my heater core is plugged?
A plugged heater core won't cause overheating and coolant overflow like you're describing.

Are the fans coming on late, once the engine is already too hot? That would point to a faulty coolant temp sensor. You could troubleshoot by pulling the electrical connector off of the coolant sensor. This will make both fans run constantly. Then see how the car behaves.

When I burp my system, I've noticed that higher rpms can sometimes bring up more air. I run the engine at ~1,500 rpm or so for a few minutes.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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You might also consider replacing your radiator cap. How old is it ? I remember a few years back I replaced mine. The engine would not draw back coolant from the recovery tank when the engine cooled down. The spring just wore out in it due to age. If it solves your problem, you are not out much. Cheap fix. ...J.D.
 

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2001 Spyder GT
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
My rad is new and so is the cap. I upgraded the rad to an aluminum Mishimoto... I will check today to see when the fans are coming on... I should mention I do not get much heat out of the blower...
 

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I meant to add earlier that even when my radiator is a fair bit low on coolant, the engine temp stays at normal and doesn't overheat. I can tell it's low because the heater stops working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Boy oh boy... Do I feel like a dummy... The original rad has the fins running horizontally, whereas the Mishimoto has them vertically… My friend explained to me that the top part of the Mishimoto rad acts like an expansion tank. When I fill the rad to the top of the neck, it has no room to expand, so it pukes it onto the road. I took the car for a drive and the gauge goes to the three-quarter mark and then drops to the halfway point. I got the car out on the highway and all is okay. By the way...you don't have to agree with my comment about feeling like a dummy.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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Boy oh boy... Do I feel like a dummy... The original rad has the fins running horizontally, whereas the Mishimoto has them vertically… My friend explained to me that the top part of the Mishimoto rad acts like an expansion tank. When I fill the rad to the top of the neck, it has no room to expand, so it pukes it onto the road. I took the car for a drive and the gauge goes to the three-quarter mark and then drops to the halfway point. I got the car out on the highway and all is okay. By the way...you don't have to agree with my comment about feeling like a dummy.
The system SHOULD have an expansion tank like the original. You should not have an air gap IN the radiator. Expansion tanks are actually "air separators" designed to purge air out of the system. Running without one you are risking rust and corrosion building up in your aluminum radiator and engine. NOT GOOD. This improvement was made standard on cars the early 70's. ...J.D.
 

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Boy oh boy... Do I feel like a dummy... The original rad has the fins running horizontally, whereas the Mishimoto has them vertically… My friend explained to me that the top part of the Mishimoto rad acts like an expansion tank. When I fill the rad to the top of the neck, it has no room to expand, so it pukes it onto the road. I took the car for a drive and the gauge goes to the three-quarter mark and then drops to the halfway point. I got the car out on the highway and all is okay. By the way...you don't have to agree with my comment about feeling like a dummy.
That still doesn't sound quite right. I also have a Mishimoto radiator and I keep it filled to the top of the fill neck. The temperature gauge stays at the middle of the range regardless of whether I'm at idle or full speed, cold days or hot days. Also, my overflow never spills onto the ground. Do you maybe have leak in your overflow tank?
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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If these systems are working properly, the expansion tank should be partially full [between the high and low marks] and the radiator should be completely full. If there are no leaks or air in the system the level in the expansion tank should rise and fall as the engine is brought up to running temperature and cooled when shut down. The siphon tube should at all times be submerged below the level in the expansion tank. If there is any air in the system, it should bubble up from the siphon tube and be dissipated within the expansion tank. Bleeding the system should be start with the radiator fully filled, cold, the heater core turned on, the radiator cap fitted tightly and a quantity of coolant in the expansion tank so it cannot suck air back into the radiator. When finished the tank level can be trimmed to the proper level when all the air is depleted from the system. I usually put mine car up on ramps so the air will rise to the top. ...J.D.
Tire Automotive parking light Wheel Car Vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I do have an overflow tank... I agree with you men that the rad should be full, with all the air expelled. Right now, the level is just above the connecting tubes and every thing seems to be okay. I would hate to have to rip it apart again because I just installed new sensors and thermostat. Maybe I have no choice but to redo my work?
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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Nothing to rip apart ! Just fill the radiator completely full and fill the expension tank about 1/2 full. Put the rad. Cap back on and start it up. Let it idle and warm up. The bubbles will come out in the expansion tank. That simple. ...J.D.
 

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I do have an overflow tank... I agree with you men that the rad should be full, with all the air expelled. Right now, the level is just above the connecting tubes and every thing seems to be okay. I would hate to have to rip it apart again because I just installed new sensors and thermostat. Maybe I have no choice but to redo my work?
No, you probably got the air out already. Just warm up and check for leaks and good heat, and that temp needle doesn't go above halfway. If heat isnt good, try doing a heater core flush by disconnecting both hoses at firewall, then flush in each direction for about five minutes each with running water from a garden hose letting it drain onto ground. Don't use too much water pressure, though. You can add a flush solution into the core and let it sit for a while to help clean the core, then flush again with water. When your done flushing, add 50/50 coolant to the inlet side to push out the water until coolant starts draining from the outlet. Then reconnect hoses. Priming the core with coolant helps keep the mixture correct and reduces air bubbles. You may have to burp the system again and refill. Then check your heat, which should now be hotter than before.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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You still need to make sure that radiator is FULL. Any air in there will lead to corroding your cooling system. Fill it right to the cap. Any extra will go into the expansion tank where it belongs when the engine warms up. You will get some bubbles when the coolant goes into tank. That is normal and correct. Put about 1/2 tank in the expansion tank to start. As air is purged out of the radiator there has to be some coolant in the tank to replace the air in the radiator when the engine cools. When it stops bubbling out air, make sure the level in the expansion tank is between the high and low marks on the side of the tank. I usually check it again a couple of times in the next couple of hot-cold run cycles. OR do it your own way. It is your car. ...J.D.
 
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