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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello boys and girls,

Some time ago i spotted this problem with the car when trying to start it: if before that, when turning a key the car started immediately, one day i turned the key and it didn't start normally: the lights came on and everything, but as i turned a key i was hearing only some noise, but not starting (it just seemed that the battery is dead, although i knew it wasn't). A little bit of effort and turned the key again - and the car started. Then i figured out, that when i turn a key and the lights comes, i don't need to try to start a car immediately, but wait like 5-10 seconds and turn the key - then it's starting. For some time that's what i did. Anyway, the problem didn't go away and today it didn't start after 5 or 10 or 15 seconds of waiting... The light comes on, i wait, turn the key, hear some noise like the battery is dead (don't have enough power to start) and the car don't start... Few minutes of waiting and trying to start and...it started. Anyway, realized that i'll need to fix this now asap and went to check the codes... Some time ago it showed p0401, p0300 and today another one showed up and now it's 3 of them: p0401, p0335, p0300. (The p0401 might unrelated here to this issue). Anyway some other symptoms: rough idle - misfire. Checked the connections - seems fine. I know that i won't get an exact answer , i have some thoughts that it might be the crankshaft position sensor, but before buying one - should i also check and be aware of some other problems that may cause this??? Thanks.
 

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2001 Spyder GT
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558 Posts
What's your year, trim, and transmission type?

I'd fix the starting system before tackling the codes, to make sure you're getting good, stable electrical power distribution. When the starter does work, does it turn over the engine with strong, quick turns? Or is it weak? Because if it's strong when it does work, but it doesn't always work, that points to an intermittent problem like a failing starter relay (MT only), starter solenoid, or something similar. If the starter is weak when it finally works, then you may have a poor connection between the battery, starter, and ground.

It sounds like these codes have been in the computer for a long time. I'd clear the codes and pick a troubleshooting path based on which codes return.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for your reply jelazar !

Aye, my mitsu is 2003 2,4 liter, A/T.
I would say that the starter works fine, don't think that the problem is with starter.

Anyway, looked for the crankshaft pos. sensors by a numberMR578312&*and looks like it's pretty pricey if we are talking about the OEM parts. Any suggestions maybe from forum members - is it worth buying OEM for this sensor or look for the cheaper options? Sometimes it's better to take cheaper parts, not OEM, but don't know about the sensors, maybe someone here had more experience on this
 

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2001 Spyder GT
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558 Posts
Well, I'd still try to figure out why the starter doesn't engage consistently, before replacing the crankshaft position sensor, any other parts.

You may have a hard time finding an OEM crankshaft position sensor in inventory. Regardless, the crankshaft position sensor is a simple hall effect sensor, so I'd be very comfortable with aftermarket. If you want to replace the crankshaft position sensor, I'd go with a non-bargain aftermarket sensor in the ~$40 price range. You can find cheap discount sensors for $5-$10, but I'm suspicious of parts that are that cheap.

IMHO people tend to overgeneralize and give all aftermarket sensors and actuators a bad rap. In some cases that's probably justified, especially with something like the MAF which has circuitry for three independent sensor systems, precise internal ports and passages, and the Karman vortex sensing. It's a complex piece of gear that requires quality assembly and manufacturing, and bench testing before it's placed on the shelf. But I think in many cases people are unsuccessful due to poor troubleshooting, and it gets blamed on the aftermarket part.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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680 Posts
You might want to check your battery voltage. At rest it should be somewhere around 12.5 volts. When you start the car, the voltage should rise a bit indicating the alternator is working. You might also want to check the battery cables. Both the positive and negative. Especially check that the connections are clear of corrosion and tight. Someplace to start. ...J.D.
 
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