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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey everyone, im new to this forum, I have looked for a good hour and coudnt find anyone who attempted to replace a rear quarter panel or made a how-to.. I have recently purchased a 2000 eclipse rs with a smashed passenger quarter panel and was needing some insight.. and no I dont wanna take it to the body shop .. I would like to attempt it myself.. any help would be great.. thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yes.. I have cut a lineout from the door jam following a edge in the jam then went under the side window then took it down in the trunk lid and down around the tail light trying to make the cuts not noticable.. i believe the only thing left that is holding it is to grind down spot welds around the inner fender or is it pressed together to the inner layer?..hope that wasn't too confusing lol im only 19 and new to this but learning..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
that's what I thought.. and im nowhere near ready to put the replacement panel on but I heard about this panel sealer some body shops use instead of welding the new panel back on and its suppose to be as strong as welds and its like liquid I guess? anyone ever used that? I don't have a welder easily available and was wondering about it.
 

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The Irishman Sheamus
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Well its not usually recommended to section in a quarter panel without the know how and are certified. Legal issues will ensue if anything fails its all on you. But it is better to cut it out along the pinchwelds instead of finessing along the jams. Use a spot weld cutter as Bitter said instead of grinding, that will save you material to weld on. Pics of progress? You plan on doing this start to finish? Body and paint?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I will update pics tomorrow.. and how would that be legal issues? im only pealing the first layer off.. there is 3 more layers I think. and Im going to be fixing all the body work for primer than i'll paint it. I believe no one has a forum on a panel replacement so ill take pics start from finish..
 

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I have used it BUT if you've already cut I don't think you can use it now. You need to use an air tool (don't know the name) that stamps a recess on the receiving panel the depth of the new metal so it sits flush and gives the width needed for a good bond. You still have to drill holes and pull rivets to firmly attach it while the epoxy cures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
that makes sense. so im probably better off tack welding it in the door jam so i wont have any clearance issues with the way the door shuts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
got ya, that's great help. but on the other hand.. i bought the car for 600$ with 120,000 with no mechanical problems at all.. only thing is a shake in drive which im guessing is a motor mount because it goes away once in neutral .. idk which one cause it has 3 i think.. anyone know which one is usually bad thatd be helpful too..
 

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The Irishman Sheamus
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I will update pics tomorrow.. and how would that be legal issues? im only pealing the first layer off.. there is 3 more layers I think.
You need certifications. You work in a mechanic shop, you should be ASE certified and in a body shop ICAR certified. And its not the best idea just to panel bond it in. The manufacturer placed welds in certain spots and bonded others for safety reasons. It is true that the bonding agent is as strong as a weld, and they have some that are stronger than a weld. But the car was made to give in some places and not in others. If you don't replace a weld with a weld you'll get yourself in trouble. Everything is so monitored now with so many regulations its ridiculous. This is like if I went ahead and upholstered someone's car seat that had air bags in it. If I replaced that section of material with something different and someone got hurt it all could come back on me because what I did was not a factory OE replacement. Same thing applies with your quarter panel replacement, if it just pops off in an accident (used to happen a bit on older cars because they would set the new quarter on top and braze it in) you could be held accountable because of the repair

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The Irishman Sheamus
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that makes sense. so im probably better off tack welding it in the door jam so i wont have any clearance issues with the way the door shuts?
It's best and easiest for ailment to weld it in along the inner pinchweld. Or is that what you're doin?

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i completely understand where your coming from, but it doesn't have a salvaged title , and honestly i don't see that first layer holding the car together.. there is a lot more to it then just that layer.. plus i don't live in a state where i get my car inspected. i live in the sticks of Tennessee. lol but i do want it to look right. and those spot welds from the factory are so weak. im popping them by sticking a screw drive on it and one or two hits with the hammer breaking them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
and i followed a very easy path inside the door jam(( ill upload a pic tomorrow ))and cut up to the bottom of the side window then along where the rubber seal goes below the window.. i have a full rear quarter basically of a eclipse i bought from the junkyard so i have to copy the cut exactly to my new fender ill be cutting out..
 

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The Irishman Sheamus
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Invest in a shit ton of vice-grips! It will make life a whole lot easier to tack it into place. Good luck with this and stay on it! :thumbup:Its no easy project that's for sure
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i don't have any experience with unibody cars so this will for sure be project.. when i looked on this forum and found not one person attempted it themselves i knew i was gonna have fun lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·



pic of the project.. stock





panel off.. easy part





the quarter I bought at the junkyard as not just the outer layer.. its the whole quarter of the car so I am grinding down to find the spot welds



yes I know everyone will tell me I should've used a special tool and not drill the spot welds but itll work. I thought the spot welds would be in a neat pattern but that's far from it!! I have drilled out all of the spot welds threw the wheel well and currently working my way around the tail light.. give me your thoughts or suggestions..

 

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you can use a drill bit and remove spot welds enough to pop them without going all the way through. and btw i'm not questioning your ability but just informing you that unless you have a lot of time to do this and do it right, it is going to be a nightmare to get it to look good
 
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