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New daddy
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Clutch Restrictor Removal FAQ

EVO Motorsports - Evo VIII Performance Upgrades and Accessories - Braided Clutch Line / Restrictor Removal

I am going to remove the clutch restictor on the slave cylidner. I want to see how it affects high RPM shifting and launching. I looked through the FSM and it looks like the GT has a restrictor, but the RS/GS does not. I just ordered a speed bleeder too. Size M10X1.0 by 35mm long. There is a risk of transmission damage due to possible increase shock loads to the transmission. Also, I don't know how it will affect clutch wear. Has anyone else done this on a 3g?
 

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New daddy
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the support. I don't want to break anything either. :lol:

I went up to Cordova drag strip on the 10th, and I was getting mainly high 2.2 to 2.4 60' times. I wasn't very happy considering everything I have done to help lower 60' times and reduce wheel hop. I was having a hard time modulating the clutch to get a good launch. However, the track condition was bad considering it was the last event of the year.
 

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This is a good tip. I might try this on my Galant! The Evo article said there was 0 negative side affects from doing this mod, btw.
 

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I see what it does. Its mainly used for comfortable ride and shifting. By removing how fast the fluid goes in and out, and making it go almost in a 1:1 ratio. Then each input there will be an equal output. So when you depress the pedal the clutch engages a bit more harshly and quickly, but on the other hand it springs right back, so I would assume its great for quick shifting.

I don't see this damaging anything personally. Would it be a worthwhile improvement? I dont know, however, if you dont like it, you can always revert back.

RRE even does it, so it has to mean something ;)
RRE 2G CLutch Line Install Instructions
 

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I did some more research on this. The V6 (GT/GTS) model has the restrictor, the I4 (RS/GS) does NOT have a restrictor.

2000-2005 (GT/GTS)

***The parts I selected have to be removed the plate and the spring, leave everything else alone.***

2000-2005 (RS/GS)

***Compared to the V6, you do not have a restrictor.***
 

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New daddy
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I wonder if it is some sort of coincidence that the RS/GS doesn not have the restrictor and the slave cylinder goes bad a lot more than on the GT?

Also I don't think engagement will be too harse as there still is a dampner on the master cylinder. I think it is just a rubber diaphram that is open to the brake fluid.

 

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I wonder if it is some sort of coincidence that the RS/GS doesn not have the restrictor and the slave cylinder goes bad a lot more than on the GT?

Also I don't think engagement will be too harse as there still is a dampner on the master cylinder. I think it is just a rubber diaphram that is open to the brake fluid.
I doubt that's the reason why the RS/GS one goes alot faster then the GT one. How does the master cylinder affect anything? Master cylinder is brakes, the slave is the clutch, they are not joined to together like on some cars.

I think it would be a cheap mod to try and may actually show a difference. For the 5 bucks it will cost for brake fluid.
 

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How does the master cylinder affect anything? Master cylinder is brakes, the slave is the clutch, they are not joined to together like on some cars.
What!? There is a clutch master cylinder just like there is a brake master cylinder. :scratch::nuts:
 

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Isn't the clutch cylinder called a "slave cylinder"?

-I put a quesiton mark, because I really don't know for sure-
The cylinder on the firewall that attaches to the pedal is the master cylinder, just like on the brake system. The cylinder that actually engages the clutch fork on the transmission is called the slave cylinder...
 

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What!? There is a clutch master cylinder just like there is a brake master cylinder. :scratch::nuts:
Above is the master clutch cylinder. The rubber damper and boot, I doubt would affect any flow on the fluid or cause a restriction. I think I should have said that a bit better. A master brake cylinder will have affect on the braking, especially the bore size. The master clutch cylinder will have very little affect on the durability and flow of the fluid, since the fluid is only being pushed by the master cylinder, I dont see how anything in the assembly of it would restrict flow as much as that valve plate in the slave cylinder.

I think we are trying to make this 10x more complicated then it actually is.

With restrictor
_______________________________________________________________
********************/-----------------------------\************
(fluid)=============== <|||(valve plate)]]]]]](spring) ============
********************\-----------------------------/************
_______________________________________________________________
 

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Above is the master clutch cylinder. The rubber damper and boot, I doubt would affect any flow on the fluid or cause a restriction. I think I should have said that a bit better. A master brake cylinder will have affect on the braking, especially the bore size. The master clutch cylinder will have very little affect on the durability and flow of the fluid, since the fluid is only being pushed by the master cylinder, I dont see how anything in the assembly of it would restrict flow as much as that valve plate in the slave cylinder.

I think we are trying to make this 10x more complicated then it actually is.

With restrictor
_______________________________________________________________
********************/-----------------------------\************
(fluid)=============== <|||(valve plate)]]]]]](spring) ============
********************\-----------------------------/************
_______________________________________________________________
I think you're trying to make this 10x more complicated than it actually is :fawk: I agree on the master cylinder part. My car is down for another week, somebody try the slave cylinder mod right quick so we can see how it turns out.
 

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I really can't see you improving to much on that 60 foot time. Mabye a 2.19 but you should be happy with a 2.2.
I can't wait to get back out to the track to see what I'm doing with this new manual swap. 2.2 is pretty damn good. Fastest for me when I was auto was 2.464. New manual tranny, SPEC clutch, Kaaz LSD, 2-step launch control should get me down to 2.2 or better. This mod could help let the clutch grab at higher-RPM launches, who knows?
 

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New daddy
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm not really happy with a 2.2'. Back when I only had front and rear DM mounts, bald Toyo T1-S tires, and still on the stock clutch I could pull consistant 2.1 to 2.2 60' times. However, wheel hop was not very controllable.

Then I upgraded to spec stage 1 clutch, ES control arm bushings, and window welded side mounts. This properly destroyed two transmissions. Wheel hop was more controllable, but "hit" a lot harder. 60' was in the 2.2-2.3 range.

Relevant 60' time mod list now:
Quaife LSD
ACT Clutch
Fidanza Flywheel (probably hurting 60' times)
Delrin front motor mount
Prothane rear and side motor mounts
Ingalls Stiffy
ES front lower control arm bushings
D3 front lower brace
Stock size Fuzion ZRi tires with good tread (probably hurting times)

Now wheel hop is very controlable now and very mild, but the extra control has seem to come at a loss of mechanical grip. Also, the clutch pedal engagement height kept changing, if I didn't give it enough time to cool between runs. Hopefully the slave cylinder mod will give me better control to counter act the lightened flywheel.
 

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Ah yes...
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I'm not really happy with a 2.2'. Back when I only had front and rear DM mounts, bald Toyo T1-S tires, and still on the stock clutch I could pull consistant 2.1 to 2.2 60' times. However, wheel hop was not very controllable.

Then I upgraded to spec stage 1 clutch, ES control arm bushings, and window welded side mounts. This properly destroyed two transmissions. Wheel hop was more controllable, but "hit" a lot harder. 60' was in the 2.2-2.3 range.

Relevant 60' time mod list now:
Quaife LSD
ACT Clutch
Fidanza Flywheel (probably hurting 60' times)
Delrin front motor mount
Prothane rear and side motor mounts
Ingalls Stiffy
ES front lower control arm bushings
D3 front lower brace
Stock size Fuzion ZRi tires with good tread (probably hurting times)

Now wheel hop is very controlable now and very mild, but the extra control has seem to come at a loss of mechanical grip. Also, the clutch pedal engagement height kept changing, if I didn't give it enough time to cool between runs. Hopefully the slave cylinder mod will give me better control to counter act the lightened flywheel.

Best way I stopped wheel hop is with a set of Megan Coilovers and stiffy mounts.
 

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New daddy
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Best way I stopped wheel hop is with a set of Megan Coilovers and stiffy mounts.
I've been shying away from the coilovers mainly because of crappy Illinois roads. I do drive my car quite a bit. How do they compare to say a basic lowering spring and KYB's?
 

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I've been shying away from the coilovers mainly because of crappy Illinois roads. I do drive my car quite a bit. How do they compare to say a basic lowering spring and KYB's?
They are much stiffer compared to something like the Eibach Pro-kit. Everyday driver on bad roads might be a bit rough though. But the benefits are there for sure. If you dont mind a stiffer ride, I would get some true coilovers.
 

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New daddy
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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
I finally did this mod a couple days ago, and meh it's ok. The first time I stepped on the clutch it felt a lot firmer, but after about 30min of driving I don't even notice it anymore. It has been too cold and rainy to really test out a hard take off. BTW, bleeding took forever.
 
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