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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off let me say hello to everyone here. I have visited these forums many of times but this is my first post. I will say right up front that I will give as much detail as I can about my issue as I know how big of a pain it is to help with inadequate information.:)

I have a 2002 GT Spyder (that's the 3.0) that is a fair weather secondary car. Virtually stock with just a K&N cold air intake and that is it. It belongs to my GF so it isn't all tricked out or anything and no internal mods. The car was beginning to on occasion not start as the starter solenoid would not engage the motor every now and then (click-click...hit starter with hammer...vrooom vroom). Not a big deal as I can handle starter work and what not but I wanted to wait for a bit before doing the work. It sat for a couple-few weeks without being ran and the battery was dead. I didn't have a battery charger but I had jumper cables so I tried jumping the car with no luck; I would just get click click from the solenoid so I thought it was the starter. I ordered a new starter and replaced it....had to go under car to disconnect it and fish it up out the top of the car between the front down pipe and the radiator with much anger. Still just click click but no crank. Found out that the jumper cables were garbage and were not giving battery enough of a boost and ordered a new battery charger. Charged battery and then car would crank very fast but would not start; wouldn't even try as if it had no spark. Obviously this was weird seeing all I did was change the starter. I checked ALL fuses including accessory fuses and found none blown. Looked for any disconnected plugs from stater install and found that I had somehow managed to catch the front post cat O2 sensor wire between the starter and the bell housing :rolleyes:. Pulled out the sensor and found that I severed the white wire and got bare wires exposed from one of the black wires leaving the blue and other black wire intact. I repaired the wires and re-insulated them and re-installed the sensor and tried to start the car with no change in symptoms; still just cranks...

I wanted to see if I was getting spark but was working alone so I sprayed some ether into the intake and got it to sputter a bit telling me I do have spark. I then went on to the fuel system and THINK I found that my pump is not coming on. I pulled the back seat and listened for the pump but heard nothing coming from tank at all over several attempts. I checked for voltage but that was somewhat inconclusive because I couldn't find any voltage at all including the sending unit voltage that I know was working because the fuel gauge was working during all of this. I swapped the relays around (all relays at both fuse boxes swapped with partners) and tried again but still no action from the pump. That is where I am at now. I hope by giving this information someone can tell me what I broke by shorting black and white O2 sensor wires to ground so that I can get it fixed.

I hope this is enough info- let me know if I missed anything!
 

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Valor is eternal....
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The issue with our cars is that they use a wonky feedback loop sort of design within the PCM to control the fuel pump.

In short - our fuel pumps won't run with the Key in the 'ON' - it only comes on with the car in crank - then the PCM keeps the fuel pump alive after its running. The same thing happens with the ignition.

The two major points in this dilemma are:

a) Electrical - can the pump be run, and is it capable of pumping fuel?
b) Physical - can the fuel make it to the engine where it can be used?

The issues is - we currently have no starting point for either diagnosis. I would need a history of the car before the starting issue (any hard starting? hesitation? loss of power?), or some sort of determination either at the relay or the pump itself. I guess the easiest way to start would be to have someone crank the car and see if 12 shows up at the connector to the pump.
 

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Just because it's easy to check and I've seen it happen several times before:

How are your battery post terminals? If they're corroded it will do exactly what you're talking about. Get a terminal cleaner and clean them both up really well and make sure they're tight. Also check the grounds and make sure everything is good there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Ok guys, thank you. I will in the next few days try either removing the fuel pump to see if it runs or have someone help me read the meter while cranking the car.

As far as the past of the car, it has had 0 issues as far as the engine up to the point where I did what I did to the 02 sensor. Never rebuilt or anything like that; it only has 40k on it.

Also the battery termanal thing was an issue at first when dealing with the starter but I fixed it and that is not the problem. It cranks like nobodies business!
 

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Pshyc
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When the wires got crushed you blew a fuse. Probably the ECM fuse. Did you disconnect the battery while changing the starter?
 

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When the wires got crushed you blew a fuse. Probably the ECM fuse. Did you disconnect the battery while changing the starter?
Has the battery been tested and does it keep a charge? Did you install the starter correctly so the teeth from the starter touch the flywheel? Did you test the starter before installing it? Check fuses and plug a code reader into the din outlet to find out if any codes are showing after keeping the key in the on position for two minutes. Use a new fuel rely to save time.
 

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Low and Slow.
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Has the battery been tested and does it keep a charge? Did you install the starter correctly so the teeth from the starter touch the flywheel? Did you test the starter before installing it? Check fuses and plug a code reader into the din outlet to find out if any codes are showing after keeping the key in the on position for two minutes. Use a new fuel rely to save time.
You replied to a 6.5 year old post fyi.

Lets hear it for the search feature being used though.
 

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You replied to a 6.5 year old post fyi.

Lets hear it for the search feature being used though.
Though I've tried to avoid responding to old posts, I dont really see any harm in doing so. Even if the OP has long since departed this site, other members can still benefit by suggestions, especially when reading older posts on an issue you are currently experiencing. I would think that, considering the dwindling activity of this site, we would welcome ANY suggestions on ANY topic, not matter how old or new.

However, if there is a rule against reviving an old post, I stand corrected but would still argue the same point barring any reasonable rationale for the rule in the first place.

As they say, just my two cents and not meant as criticism...
 

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Low and Slow.
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My tone would have come across different had they tried arguing with an old poster.

My comment was simply letting them know (very kindly at that), that don't expect a reply since the post is ancient and the user has likely moved on from their problem, as they seemed to be speaking directly to a poster.

I know how forums work, I've been around here for a little while 😅
 

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My tone would have come across different had they tried arguing with an old poster.

My comment was simply letting them know (very kindly at that), that don't expect a reply since the post is ancient and the user has likely moved on from their problem, as they seemed to be speaking directly to a poster.

I know how forums work, I've been around here for a little while 😅
and now that you fully explained your motive, there's much less chance of anyone getting offended...
IMHO, you have proven yourself to be a valuable source of info on the 3G platform (y)(y)(y)(y)
 
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