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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I new to the forums and have searched other posts but there not exactly like my symptoms so I'll post my own issue. Here's the deal I have an 00 eclipse gt which recently got hydro locked. I was able to fix it and it ran fine for a while, until one day it started rough idling a lot like 400 to 700rpm up and down. Well I continued to drive the car keeping in mind I was going to fix the problem within that week, well i didn't make it the car suddenly died on me one day in the middle of the road and would not start again. So i looked into the issue and seen it was the crank sensor had been cut from something so I replaced it and the car started. Only to sound like it was clogged up and had no power, so I watched the car and seen the exhaust glowing red hot. Thinking it was the cat I completely gutted it out. after that the car still ran rough, no power and exhaust still glowed red also it was talking a while to start up. Now my issue is the car runs terrible like 400rpm idle in park when you press the gas to the floor it only revs to 3.5 to 4.0k rpm very slowly and stops. when its in drive you can press the gas to the floor and it only stays at 1000k rpm and goes like 5 to 10 mph whats wrong? Sorry for the lengthy post but please if you can help i would appreciate it. Also compression test has been done all around 180 and distributor cap and rotor brand new along with plugs and wires. and questions please ask thanks again.
 

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troubleshoot your EGR, PCV and vacuum lines. I am having a very similar issue, also with a V6.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I checked the EGR is okay haven't checked the PCV and there seems to be no obvious vac hose leaks I'll defiantly check over it tho. thanks for the input I am also buying a $260 dollar code reader so hopefully it will find something I'll keep it posted because this issue is a pain.
 

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Which part of the exhaust is glowing red hot? That's a classic sign of a motor becoming and "external" combustion engine--the exhaust valve opens during combustion and burning fuel/air shoots down the exhaust, superheating the manifold and pipe(s).

First thought would be clogged cat, and you say you gutted it, but is your car fed spec or cali spec? If fed spec, you have ruled that out. If cali, you've still got two other cats that could be the problem.

If your check engine light is coming on, you'll need to give us the codes.

So if you've ruled out clogged cat, first thing I would check is the timing. Go to the garage section and look for the How To on changing the V6 timing belt for guidance. It sounds to me that your timing has slipped. This may very well account for why your crank sensor wire was cut; not the skipping of time itself, but whatever it was that caused the timing to skip in the first place i.e. something falling into the timing area and interfering with pullies, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
the part that is glowing red is the pipe right underneath the header as far as a code goes I'm getting my new scanner today so I'll be able to tell you hopefully and the car is a Florida car which is where I'm at and we have no regulations I will check on the timing today and see what happens
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
over at the shop playing with the car now, I hooked up my new 260 dollar computer and it at first showed no codes great.... then finally I got one which is a p0110 which is a intake air temp code which has to do with the IAC unit so i unpluged it just to see. Well the car goes to about 600rpm now and is pretty steady there how ever still no acceleration and it stops at 4k rpm wierd. I checked on the timing and its spot on even the cam gears are perfect with the dots. But my computer was saying the car is at 15.0 degrees timing in park at 600rpm kind of wierd once i rev the car up also it has some backfiring let me know what you think thanks I'll keep this issues updated " also its not giving a ses light anymore wierd too."
 

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Intake air temp is integrated into the MAF, not the IAC. If you unplug the MAF it'll run semi-ok but will be very rich to the point of consuming fuel like a jeep. However if your MAF is fucked up, unplugging it will make it run better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I unplugged the MAF and it just makes the car die out. Also I thought I was looking at the timing correctly but apparently I wasn't my mechanic informed me that the car is actually off 2 teeth on the cam gears and who knows how it looks to the pulley. However we are going to tear into it on Sunday and see if this is the issue, going to put a new timing belt and tensioner. I am going to keep us posted again so next time this issue arises we have answers hopefully, and I really appreciate everyones help.
 

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Keep us posted, I am fighting a similar monster. My girl is going to see Satan tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok guys here's the deal, I did the timing job not once but 3 times to make sure that it was spot on, since the car insisted on being off by 1 tooth on the cam gears each time I got the timing belts on. So once I got the timing right on dead center I fired the car up the sound of joy.... it was idling at 900 rpm all was well... but when I went to accelerate still the same kind of restriction like the car has a govern. So that was a major bummer now I am going to wait till tomorrow and I'll see if the car is going to throw anymore codes now lets hope. In reality this leave only one issue I can think on which is computer based because mechanically everything is solid even the timing now so.... -.- well see what the code reader says tomorrow. Thanks for everyone's input its much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well the code reader is giving the same code as before p0110. I am starting to think when the car got flooded the distribitor got damaged internally and is causing this issue. Let me know what you guys think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I ordered a brand new distributor lets see if this fixes the issue because the code scanner is now picking up the p0340 code I believe this is correct? which is the code for the camshaft sensor. The manual for this car states that is the camshaft sensor is determined to be faulty in other words if its throwing a code I would assume, because there is no real way to test it since it is integrated into the distributor. Anyhow it states to replace the distributor..... so lets see where this goes, I should have the part in sometime in the next 4 or 5 days or hopefully sooner so I'll keep us posted thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
**********Detalied=Update********

**********Update********

Ok the new distributor came in today, so I ran down to the shop and installed it into my car. Well the car was defiantly idling better but still NO POWER! so I went ahead and let the car sit for a good 15 minutes running. Well when I came back the idle sounded a lot better. I then put the car into drive and it started to go I got it all the way up to 45 mph which is awesome but the acceleration was slow. *Keep in mind the car would only go 2-5mph before MAX* So I hooked the scanner back up and got the codes P0340 & P0335 doesn't make sense, since I replaced the crank sensor and got a new distributor where the cam sensor is inside of. well I then checked the exhaust right below the header and the one behind the intake and both glowing cherry red?

If anyone has any ideas please let me know I am almost out.

keep in mind my car was hydro-locked. and I already gutted the catalytic conv. thanks everyone
 

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I know that I jag both those codes after power washing under my hood. I had gotten water into several connectors on my harness. Bitter recomended using starting fluid to dry out any WY connections. For me it was the 7 or 8 pin connector on top of the distributer, but it could be in several places on u yours. Pull your connectors apart and look for water, residue or burning between wires. That's about all I can think of

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok I'll have to do that the only thing I am still trying to figure out is why is the exhaust glowing cherry red.

thanks for the reply
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok I finally give up I am going to take her down to the dealer and fix this once and for all hopefully. I just want to say thanks to everyone that replied and suggested Ideas to get me this far it's much appreciated. I will continue to give back as much as I can to the 3g forums as I really enjoyed this site and will continue to look here for my help.

Lots of thanks to you all,

EclipseSSX
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
well the dealer tried to screw me over well the service side of them, they said I had no compression when I just tested for compression and it was 180 around long story short they offered me 800 for the car I told them to go and fuck off and went across to the dealer they ended up paying off all the bills and bought my car for almost 4grand and put me in a brand new 2013 lancer with 10 miles on it for 15 grand.... not a bad deal with a 10 year warranty so again thanks guys and if you guys ever bring your car to a dealer make sure you bring it to a local shop first to document the running condition of the car because if they screw something up they have no accountability to say oh it was our fault for example like setting the timing on the wrong stroke and breaking the valves thanks Mitsubishi....... well again i appreciate all the help.
 
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