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Wut Wut In Da Butt
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36,305 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys! It's been a awhile :)

2001 GS 2.4L ... I've had it for 19 years with only 90k miles.

My GS started rough idling a few days ago. Then it threw a P0401 code (EGR). Since I'm working from home today, I decided to do a little trouble shooting.

I pulled and checked some lines and finally found the culprit. What's this line "E" that goes into the throttle body?




Every time I plug it back in, the idle gets rough. But now with it unplugged, the idle is around 900-1000rpms.

Appreciate anyone's input and solution. Thank!:cool:
 

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Wut Wut In Da Butt
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36,305 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thank you sir!

I'll check my EGR solenoid. I replaced it last year because I had P0403 code.

Can I just spray carb cleaner in those line?
 

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Low and Slow.
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1,722 Posts
If you replaced the solenoid last year due to P0403 (the circuit itself) I doubt the hardware has failed. As for just spraying the carb cleaner through the line, if there is in fact build up it might just free it up and push it further into the system and make a blockage elsewhere. Might be best to pull the vacuum control valve and inspect. It is held in place by the bracket that holds the EGR solenoid and is wedged. should come off fairly easily if you can get your arms back there.
 

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Hey guys i also have been having a huge issue with my egr system. I've been getting P0401 insufficient EGR flow. I don't know what else I could possibly check in the EGR system. I know there's been a million threads on EGR problems but I've been looking through most of them and all they say is "just clean EGR" or "Replace EGR" or "check your sensors" and I've literally done all that and can't find a single problem. My car is a 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT 3.0L V6 with Variable Induction Control. My problem seems to be that the solenoid is not engaging and producing a vacuum, it remains off and allows air to flow through without allowing vacuum to EGR valve.
So far this is what I've done:
  • Replaced vacuum lines (4mm hose)
  • Cleaned EGR valve and intake and exhaust ports
  • Checked EGR valve by supplying vacuum at idle (RPM drops significantly = no clog and EGR works fine)
  • Checked EGR solenoid (terminals are being supplied voltage around 5V at cold idle, continuity is within specs around 33 ohms, hooked up solenoid to 9v battery and it turns on and closes to hold vacuum)
  • Checked Manifold Differential Pressure sensor (backprobed while engine on at idle and it is being supplied voltage)
  • Checked vacuum lines running from EGR solenoid to vacuum control valve and EGR valve (all lines are good and hold vacuum and are cleared when blowing through them)
  • Ran a live systems check using BlueDriver OBDII focusing on the coolant temperature sensor and it ran fine (start was 78 degrees outside temp and engine read 84 degrees, warmed up slowly at idle to 184 degrees and stayed there)

Does anyone else know of any other component in the EGR system that could alter the flow of vacuum? Maybe some other sensor that would fail and not tell the CPU to turn on the EGR solenoid? Or maybe even vacuum within the intake manifold itself? I took it to a shop a while ago and they said they tested for intake manifold leaks and could not find any so that shouldn't be it. The next things I'm gonna try are using a hand pump to numerically check the vacuum pressure being supplied to all the components (even though they are working they may not be working well enough), I'm also going to take the EGR hose off and clean and inspect that (i just replaced the gasket for that like a month ago so that should be fine), and I'm going to use the hand pump to check the MDP sensor and make sure the voltage is changing when vacuum is applied. Let me know if anyone has any other ideas please.

Symptoms I've been having with my car before code was thrown:
Rough idle when engine is warm and in drive (park idle is fine)
Significant condensation accumulation (water dripping under car)
 

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Wut Wut In Da Butt
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36,305 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Hey Trix! I still haven't fixed mine. I actually got it fixed at a local shop last year (Sep2019). It cost me $800. And a year later it's back!!! 😭

I've been driving around with that vacuum line disconnected. 😓 It's been running good and my RPM at idle has gone down to normal, but I still have my SES light on. I'm not too worried about it right now since I only use my 3G to get to work (3mi away) 4 days a week. I'm not due for inspection until next Aug 2021. I have another vehicle(Nissan Pathfinder). So I have time to decide if I should get it fixed, or finally retire the car after 19years and just buy another vehicle. Wifey's been bugging me for a pick up truck.
 

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Wut Wut In Da Butt
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36,305 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Okay ... so last week I erased the code to turn off the SES light. I'm still driving around with that vacuum line disconnected. After a week, the SES light hasn't come back on.

I know that my EGR is still broken somewhere.
 
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