[cupompa]

Hello,
Family car makes this noise which starts at :09 seconds. The noise stops at :33 seconds.
Car turns off by itself at 1:05 during this cold-start in a garage. Turns on again no problem and idled for 15 minutes without turning off by itself.
I recently changed the headlight bulbs.

I did search these forums after creating an account. Is the problem one of these?

1. Tensioner
2. Drive Belt
3. Serpentine Belt
4. Motor Mount

Thank you for any advice,
2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS. 2.4 L 150 hp (110 kW) 4G64 I4. 190,000 Miles.

 

[Widgmaster]

That sounds more like a bearing ... I doubt very much it would be a motor mount... If you have a stethoscope, try listening to each bearing in the belt system.

 

[Bitter]

You'll need to remove the serpentine belts one by one to find which belt is making the noise. It sounds like something has locked up and is no longer spinning, with the belts off you can spin the parts to see. If both belts are off and it still does the noise, it's in the timing belt system.

 

[WhiteSpyder]

It is not uncommon for the sealed bearing in an idler pully to scream or rattle. If it starts to lock up, I guess it could stop the engine, especally if it were the one for the timing belt. ...J.D.

 

[cupompa]

Thanks guys. An update for anyone who may happen to stumble onto this thread. So, my family member told me that the last timing belt job was done at 100k miles. I see the interval for changing is every 60k so it was 30k overdue (But if you live in California it's 100k so I was 10k early. Based on the instruction booklet I got from Gates). This was my first timing belt job and honestly it wasn't so bad. What was time consuming though was cleaning up all this caked up oil (which looks to be from the valve cover), installing a new water pump, and removing/uninstalling the Idler Pulley which I assume was the worst bearing/pulley that was making the screech noise.
So solution Part Number that I used was: DAYCO 89137
OR
OEM / Interchange Numbers: 5721238000, 5721238100, MD362028

More specifically this guy under the power steering. The frame was not my friend uninstalling. But installing it was my friend because there was no way it would fall on the floor:

Pictures!:

If you noticed, the brand new crankshaft sensor I bought and installed broke. Don't buy this crank shaft sensor: ("STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS PC424"). The red cable just decided to dip just as I plugged it in from the top. And if anyone is wondering, yes it is possible to change the crankshaft sensor without removing the timing belt. I ended up re-using the stock crankshaft sensor.

Next up is a valve cover gasket, spark plug tube gaskets, and an oil change. Before I rotated the crank 3 times to wait 15 minutes to put back in the grenade pin I pulled out the ignition coils and spark plugs. Cylinder 2 & 4 were full of oil, never seen anything like that before. Then front quick struts, sway bar end links, and lower control arms. Then I think it'll be time to suggest a newer used car with prices coming down and the rust this car has at this age (VA Rustbelt!). But that's up to my family member to decide not me

 

[WhiteSpyder]

Been into this already on mine. I did not do the idler for the alternator belt though. I already did the water pump and the idler on the cam belt. You are smart to do as much of this at one time as you can. It winds up saving a lot of labor tearing it down again for another issue. Hope everything is quiet now. ...J.D.