That sounds more like a bearing ... I doubt very much it would be a motor mount... If you have a stethoscope, try listening to each bearing in the belt system.
Screech Noise + Car Now Shuts Off By Itself
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Thanks guys. An update for anyone who may happen to stumble onto this thread. So, my family member told me that the last timing belt job was done at 100k miles. I see the interval for changing is every 60k so it was 30k overdue (But if you live in California it's 100k so I was 10k early. Based on the instruction booklet I got from Gates). This was my first timing belt job and honestly it wasn't so bad. What was time consuming though was cleaning up all this caked up oil (which looks to be from the valve cover), installing a new water pump, and removing/uninstalling the Idler Pulley which I assume was the worst bearing/pulley that was making the screech noise.
So solution Part Number that I used was: DAYCO 89137
OR
OEM / Interchange Numbers: 5721238000, 5721238100, MD362028
More specifically this guy under the power steering. The frame was not my friend uninstalling. But installing it was my friend because there was no way it would fall on the floor:
![Product Motor vehicle Organism Font Line]()
Pictures!:
![Gear Automotive tire Wheel Rim Auto part]()
![Wood Motor vehicle Circle Metal Font]()
![Automotive tire Gear Flash photography Rim Engineering]()
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Automotive exterior Gas]()
![Font Material property Electronic device Lock Technology]()
![Camera lens Reflex camera Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting]()
![Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood]()
![Car Vehicle Automotive parking light Automotive side marker light Hood]()
If you noticed, the brand new crankshaft sensor I bought and installed broke. Don't buy this crank shaft sensor: ("STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS PC424"). The red cable just decided to dip just as I plugged it in from the top. And if anyone is wondering, yes it is possible to change the crankshaft sensor without removing the timing belt. I ended up re-using the stock crankshaft sensor.
Next up is a valve cover gasket, spark plug tube gaskets, and an oil change. Before I rotated the crank 3 times to wait 15 minutes to put back in the grenade pin I pulled out the ignition coils and spark plugs. Cylinder 2 & 4 were full of oil, never seen anything like that before. Then front quick struts, sway bar end links, and lower control arms. Then I think it'll be time to suggest a newer used car with prices coming down and the rust this car has at this age (VA Rustbelt!). But that's up to my family member to decide not me
So solution Part Number that I used was: DAYCO 89137
OR
OEM / Interchange Numbers: 5721238000, 5721238100, MD362028
More specifically this guy under the power steering. The frame was not my friend uninstalling. But installing it was my friend because there was no way it would fall on the floor:
Pictures!:
If you noticed, the brand new crankshaft sensor I bought and installed broke. Don't buy this crank shaft sensor: ("STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS PC424"). The red cable just decided to dip just as I plugged it in from the top. And if anyone is wondering, yes it is possible to change the crankshaft sensor without removing the timing belt. I ended up re-using the stock crankshaft sensor.
Next up is a valve cover gasket, spark plug tube gaskets, and an oil change. Before I rotated the crank 3 times to wait 15 minutes to put back in the grenade pin I pulled out the ignition coils and spark plugs. Cylinder 2 & 4 were full of oil, never seen anything like that before. Then front quick struts, sway bar end links, and lower control arms. Then I think it'll be time to suggest a newer used car with prices coming down and the rust this car has at this age (VA Rustbelt!). But that's up to my family member to decide not me
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
