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Kampfbereit
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm performing an SDS installation sometime next month on one of the 3G GTs down here in CFL. I wanted to know from you guys, is there anything else I need to buy to prepare for this installation ahead of time that I would not need for a turbo install? The SDS install seems pretty straight forward, and I have not seen the instruction booklet yet for belt routing and whatnot. Would it be wise to go ahead and buy a belt tensioner tool or just play it by ear?

Thank you all for the input.
 

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Evo IX
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1,767 Posts
im not sure exactly what im looking at but the belt tensioner MIGHT come with the kit?
 

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Supercharged Stratus
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You don't really need a belt tensioner tool. The only thing I can think of is a drill bit for the oil pan, but you probably already have it from the turbo installs. Make sure you've got spark plugs... they don't come with the kit.
 

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Kampfbereit
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17,852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yanster said:
You don't really need a belt tensioner tool. The only thing I can think of is a drill bit for the oil pan, but you probably already have it from the turbo installs. Make sure you've got spark plugs... they don't come with the kit.
Yeah, I was just checking to see if I needed any other tools, I was not 100% sure. How do you know when you have the right amount of tension on the SDS/Serpentine belt?
 

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Ripped Evo
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1,178 Posts
Tearstone said:
Yeah, I was just checking to see if I needed any other tools, I was not 100% sure. How do you know when you have the right amount of tension on the SDS/Serpentine belt?
Tighten the belt so you can twist the belt NO More than 60 degrees between the AC pulley and Crank pulley.
 

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New daddy
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3,352 Posts
Kc2Buk said:
Tighten the belt so you can twist the belt NO More than 60 degrees between the AC pulley and Crank pulley.
Personally I would tighten the belt, then run the car for about 100 miles or less, then re-tighten it.
 

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Ripped Evo
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1,178 Posts
fasteclipse00 said:
Personally I would tighten the belt, then run the car for about 100 miles or less, then re-tighten it.
You would think so. But, NO!
The belt will stretch but not that fast.
The car should NOT be pushed into boost at all for the 1st 500 to 1,000 miles.
The grey box needs that drive time to learn it self in.
The belt will stretch more after the learn in time when you start to beat on it a bit :burnout:
 

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Registered
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115 Posts
I just happen to have a high speed scanner and I just did a SDS install last spring. If you would like I can scan the instructions and email them to you.
I just have to bring them into work tomorrow.

drop me a note: [email protected]
 

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Kampfbereit
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17,852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
3G_SDS said:
I just happen to have a high speed scanner and I just did a SDS install last spring. If you would like I can scan the instructions and email them to you.
I just have to bring them into work tomorrow.

drop me a note: [email protected]
The guy has the instructions, the point of the thread is just to see if I need to buy any tools ahead of time as I have a tight install window to work in.

I do know that you have to cut the frame of the car for the windshield resivoir ghetto-rig, what did you all use to do that?
 

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Registered
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Yeah get measurements from ripp on the sds pully to make sure they dident send you the wrong f**king pully which will result in the destruction of your engine.
 

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Wanna be my Sheep?
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8,255 Posts
Russ, there's not really any special tools required for a stage 1 kit. A couple of standard things which were not in my tool box werea proper sized drill bit and some Hondabond or other high temp sealant for when you put the oil pan back on.

See if the person who you're doing the install for wants his wash bottle or not. If he doesn't you can just remove it and not have worry about cutting anything.
 

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Wow... first off you don't "cut the frame" its just alittle trim of the sheet metal, If you read the
The guy has the instructions, the point of the thread is just to see if I need to buy any tools ahead of time as I have a tight install window to work in.
It took 5 min. to do and if you put a little door trim from Napaaround it, it looks like it was there.

* shrink wrap for wiring.
* heat gun
* and don't just go by the colors on the wires, look at the pin-outs on the diagram.
* if you have a '03 or newer make sure the AC Braket has holes in it for mounting the new idle pully. if not you need to send one to Ross to Get it Machine, Unless you can do it.
*teflon paste

I used a 1/8" flared tube to for the oil feed line to the supercharger. This is much easier to thread through the headers away from the heat.

I also put an oil cooler prior to the supercharger.
 

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Kampfbereit
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17,852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
3G_SDS said:
Wow... first off you don't "cut the frame" its just alittle trim of the sheet metal, If you read the
It took 5 min. to do and if you put a little door trim from Napaaround it, it looks like it was there.

* shrink wrap for wiring.
* heat gun
* and don't just go by the colors on the wires, look at the pin-outs on the diagram.
* if you have a '03 or newer make sure the AC Braket has holes in it for mounting the new idle pully. if not you need to send one to Ross to Get it Machine, Unless you can do it.
*teflon paste

I used a 1/8" flared tube to for the oil feed line to the supercharger. This is much easier to thread through the headers away from the heat.

I also put an oil cooler prior to the supercharger.
I wouldn't say it is so much as trimming as in reality your cutting a half moon into the car and then using a heat gun to melt the wiper bottle into the half moon area then holding it there with a zip tie. Personally, I would have the thing cut down or simply taken out all together.

I'm glad you told me about that '03 A/C bracket because this guy has an '03. The rest is the same things I do for a turbo install.
 

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Registered
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Another idea would be to have a line on a complete fuel sending unit from a salvage yard. Just incase the pump install goes bad. However I am sure you've done that before. sorry but just had to put that in to.

the ripp site have a great how to on the message board: help one click away
 

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Kc2Buk said:
:nuts: Even at 9 psi w/o Meth you would have to push the $h!t out of the car to blow the engine.
The occasional ripping through 2nd and 3rd gear once a day is not "pushing the $h!t out of it".
 

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Kampfbereit
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17,852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Alright SDS gurus, got a few questions for you.

We have a grey box here and the 9psi pulley. The SDS came with the 5~6psi pulley. Will the gray box adapt to whichever pulley you throw on there? I'm assuming it does since it came with a MAP sensor, I just wanted to confirm that ;)

Speaking of pulleys, I'm a little concerned about the pulley bolting up to the A/C bracket, it doesn't really seem to make logical sense.





How does that get bolted up, I realize the holes line up... but it's crooked :scratch:

Also, to drop the upper oil pan is it required to remove the starter? The instructions do not speak of removing the starter or any of the little 10mm bolts that line the upper oil pan
 

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Kampfbereit
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17,852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Okay, I just went ahead and bolted it onto the A/C bracket initially with the thought of insuring the pulley would underneath the SDS pulley as much as possible to increase belt surface on the SDS drive shaft pulley. Luckily, that was perfect because it would not have been possible to mount it backwards without hitting the alternator.







 
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