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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2001 3.0 Eclipse

I looked at the scanner data and my sensor 1 o2 read very differently across the two banks, s1 b1 goes between .1v to .7 while s1 b2 goes from 0v to about .55v on my scanner, is the 0 volts drop something to be worried about? My car does not idle well, the gauge reads 500, but my scanner says 750, which leads me to believe this might an issue with the motor mounts instead of sensors if the 0v bottom end on the o2 sensors is not a problem. Fuel trims are approximately between -5 and 5

Any information would be greatly appreciated,
Thanks.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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Not sure I follow your train of thought on motor mounts. Does seem like your tach is reading a bit off. That would take MY mind down a different path. A tachometer reading is a product of ignition "dwell angle". Since this is a solid state ignition, I would suspect something wrong electronically. Possibly in the distributor. I would check that out before worrying about O2 readings since that is only a product of how clean the combustion process is. ...J.D.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not sure I follow your train of thought on motor mounts. Does seem like your tach is reading a bit off. That would take MY mind down a different path. A tachometer reading is a product of ignition "dwell angle". Since this is a solid state ignition, I would suspect something wrong electronically. Possibly in the distributor. I would check that out before worrying about O2 readings since that is only a product of how clean the combustion process is. ...J.D.
I see, I saw the difference in readings as "whatever physical component that is producing the movement on the needle on the gauge is worn, but the ecu knows exactly what is going on" maybe ill start researching on how to go about testing the distributor, I am biased to think that it is just the gauge cluster is old, but if I can run tests I will, thanks!
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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If the primary side of the ignition is a bit "funky" it would follow the path of logic that your idle quality would suffer. Changing out the distributor is a pretty easy and inexpensive fix, if that proves to be the problem. Then you can revisit the O2 sensors. Happy hunting:oops: ...J.D.
 

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2001 Spyder GT
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I'm inclined to believe the scan tool much more than the needle. Short term and long term trims are all +-5?

Do you have access to an automotive scope? That would tell you a lot about your ignition signal and might help diagnose why the car idles poorly.

Here's the checks you can do to the distributor.

Font Parallel Document Number
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm inclined to believe the scan tool much more than the needle. Short term and long term trims are all +-5?

Do you have access to an automotive scope? That would tell you a lot about your ignition signal and might help diagnose why the car idles poorly.

Here's the checks you can do to the distributor.
I have loose access to an oscilloscope, but I cant take it out of the shop. In full honesty, I did not change the rotor or cap, just plugs and wires last time I was in there, so I should probably start testing and working through the distributor side of things, thanks!
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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I have loose access to an oscilloscope, but I cant take it out of the shop. In full honesty, I did not change the rotor or cap, just plugs and wires last time I was in there, so I should probably start testing and working through the distributor side of things, thanks!
I have had my V-6 Spyder for many years. I have found that the cap and rotor last about 60,000 miles, then you start getting misfire codes. I am up to 143,000 miles. Sounds more to me like the issue is in the primary [low voltage] side of the ignition. Don't know how much you are going to see on an "O-scope". You can try. I ran a scope for years back in my mechanic years. I do not know how the electronics on these modern systems do what they do. I know that a dwell time has to occur for the spark to be strong enough to overcome the resistance of the spark plug gap when the system triggers a collapse of the primary electronic field. I am kind of old school but some things are facts no matter what you are working on. ...J.D.
 
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