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Discussion Starter #1
O.K. I thought it was from the play between my front/rear mounts and the brackets so I squeezed some of those rubber things on and reinstalled so there is no play but I'm still getting the vibration. I know you get more with prothane but this is NOT normal. It's when I'm accelerating and the only thing I can think of is my exhaust because I did it at the same time. It feels like a side- to- side shaking more than a vibration. Has anyone had this problem with Invidia?
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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Has anyone had this problem with Invidia?
Most definately not. The shaking has nothing to do with the cat-back. Is your SES light on? Anyhing new done to your suspension or wheels? Doesthe car only shake during acceleration or does it continue after you have let off the gas?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
only while accelerating, no check engine light, nothing new done to my wheels... got all fo my wheels balanced as well just to make sure.
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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If it only happens during accel then I would assume the issue is with the engine and maybe a mount. Not sure what else it could be. What "rubber things" did you install? The fact that your SES light is not on makes me think the issue is directly related to the mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
the rubber things that go on either side of your mount against the insert.
they're all tight and snug... WTF?
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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Is the crossmember installed properly and torqued to spec? Is it sitting lush against the chassis at the front and the back? Hopefully someone else can chime in. The crossmember is my only other suggestion :(

I wouldn't think its coming from the wheel, suspension, hubs, etc. I would think those would make noise regardless of whether the car was accelerating or decelerating.
 

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Dude, don't be a dick... You're not special just because you got a couple of reps on a car site............. ALL HAIL KIDNEY BEAN!!!!!!!!!!!
If you wanted me to be more specific just say it. prick
 

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Discussion Starter #9
There are a couple of normal people who like to help others on here.
 

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Dude, don't be a dick... You're not special just because you got a couple of reps on a car site............. ALL HAIL KIDNEY BEAN!!!!!!!!!!!
If you wanted me to be more specific just say it. prick
I could care less about having those little green marks below my name. If you'd look around a little bit, you'd see that I'm very active with trying to help people fix their cars...especially with electrical problems. I do this on my own time out of my own good will. Because of this, it makes it a lot easier for me, and others, if we can start with the same basic information to go off of instead of having to ask the same generic questions each and every time someon has a problem. You wanted help...well, in order to effectively give you help, we need more information. If you notice, that thread clearly states in bold to rear BEFORE posting any problem reports...I didn't make it a sticky, the mods did...so they obviously felt that it was a good contribution to the community. The problem that isn't just with you, but a lot of people on here is that it seems to be expected that we can read minds...unless someone specifically states what type of car they have, what they've done to their car, and gives a very detailed explaination of what exactly is going wrong, it's sometimes very difficult to find a solution. We don't have your car physically in front of us so we don't know what has been done to it. Differnt years of 3Gs have different wiring. Before you should expect us to donate our free time to help you (instead of charging you a shop rate for diagnosis), it would be to your benefit to give out as much information as possible to ensure a correct diagnosis is given. Additionally, there are often a good number of people who get on here to try and help, and while their intention is good, a lot of incorrect information gets passed along. Again, by providing a thorough explanation of what's wrong, it allows us to get a good diagnosis in before the bad guess, or at least have enough info to correct them. Think of it as taking your car in for service...would you just drop it off at the dealer and say "it's not working right, I need you to fix it" or would you take the time to explain what it's doing wrong (or not doing right), etc. to hopefully allow them to find the problem quicker and therefore charge you less money. In my post above, I was not trying to be a dick at all, but merely provide you a means of coming to a solution in a more timely mannor. If you took it out of context, which it appears you did, then I'm not sorry for that...you shouldn't assume so much. If anything, your response is what needs to be put in check as it was comepletely uncalled for. If you truly want help in this forum, you need to learn how not to piss of those who would otherwise be more than willing to help you. Oh, and since you seem to be so focused on that erep, here's a little bit of a differnt color for you...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK I got of tired of reading your novel but I think I got enough. Look, I don't care how you try to "lash" out at me with that last line in chapter 3 up there about "reps" because my life still goes on, dumbass. And if you're not one of the dicks then I apologize. I just want to drive my car and not focus on something that ALWAYS seems to go wrong. So if you don't want to help when I post an "in depth" question here in a minute then go away to a different thread and give someone else your sub-reality forums life story...
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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Is the crossmember installed properly and torqued to spec? Is it sitting lush against the chassis at the front and the back?
I asked this because if it isn't as described then the front mount will not be positioned correctly. Also the crossmember bushings could rattle if they were not flush against the chassis. I know that because I crossthreaded my xmember bolt holes and had to spend like $300+ to have them fixed. :twitch:

Do you still have the original mounts? If so maybe try reistalling them to see if the problem goes away. Maybe you would come across something loose along the way. Obviously wait (if you can) to see if anyone has some other ideas that would take less effort and time to check out before going through the hassle of replacing those front and rear mounts.

As far as the "tiff" above goes... Some of us WANT to help others. Its hard to do so without the required related info so it can be frustrating when new/er users ask for help without providing details. All we can do at that point is throw out guesses. When you have those kinds of posts like everyday it gets old quick. We realize its time consuming reading through all the damn stickied threads before posting a question... hell, I still haven't read most, but doing so will help you tremedously in the long run. And I believe that in turn that will help us, the helpful community, as well.

*edit* For the record kidney_bean is definately a helper here. He is one of the reasons this site is so useful and I feel he is an asset :yesway: He'll help you if you just communicate in his/our "dialect". LOL

Let us know what you check and discover about the shaking :yesway:

BTW, How do you know the shaking is NOT normal with prothanes? Have you driven in a car with the exact same setup as yours? I have yet to experience the Prothanes myself. I'm using Deyeme (sides), Ripp (front), and Ingalls (aftermarket ETD). I get some vibration but no shuddering or shaking like I think you may be describing.
 
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