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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I was just wondering when you get the stage 2 SDS what kind of stuff needs to be done to the engine and what kind of prices will that bring in?

Mike,
 

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TheDemonKiwi said:
Hey guys I was just wondering when you get the stage 2 SDS what kind of stuff needs to be done to the engine and what kind of prices will that bring in?

Mike,
i would do a search bc i know there are a lot of info on the sds here. there is plenty of material on here to read up on
 

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Stage 2 is recommended forged pistons. That means you gotta open up your engine and expect to spend some $.
 

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One Sic Mic
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Like he said; do a search for more info. But to answer your question there is no need for "engine" work. Just ensure you have aftermarket headers. Your stock exhaust manifolds will not flow enough.
 

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One Sic Mic
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PharmEcis said:
Stage 2 is recommended forged pistons. That means you gotta open up your engine and expect to spend some $.
I have a stage 2 and the pistons are not recommended until the stage 3; which I don't even think RIPP sales anymore.
 

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Ripp does not sell S3 anymore cuz it was a cluster fuck. I would still run forged pistons on stage 2, I've seen too many S2 cars smoke these pistons... hell I've seen too many S1 cars smoke these pistons for that matter.

Once you start going over 8psi you NEED forged pistons for your motors longevity of life. Sure it will work on the stockers, but the question is for how long. The meth cooler is a bandaid to allow 10-12 psi on the stock pistons, not a longterm solution.
 

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One Sic Mic
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PharmEcis said:
Ripp does not sell S3 anymore cuz it was a cluster fuck. I would still run forged pistons on stage 2, I've seen too many S2 cars smoke these pistons... hell I've seen too many S1 cars smoke these pistons for that matter.

Once you start going over 8psi you NEED forged pistons for your motors longevity of life. Sure it will work on the stockers, but the question is for how long. The meth cooler is a bandaid to allow 10-12 psi on the stock pistons, not a longterm solution.
hmmm.....good info, but I wouldn't exactly call the methanol set-up a Band-Aid. Any form of cooling is necessary when running higher amount of boost.
 

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punker9474 said:
hmmm.....good info, but I wouldn't exactly call the methanol set-up a Band-Aid. Any form of cooling is necessary when running higher amount of boost.
Cooling is necessary when running ANY kind of boost period. Why do you think factory turbo charged cars come w/ a stock intercooler irregardless of how efficient it is? I say the meth cooler is a band aid because it allows you to run more boost but it is not a permanent solution. By permanent I mean a 100% reliable solution. How many people have had issues w/ their meth controllers breaking over time? Will the meth cooler work if there is no coolant in the reseviour? What happens if you are out of coolant or it stops working and you are still running 12psi? BOOM is what will happen. Maybe not on your first WOT pull, but sooner rather than later it WILL happen.

Got forged pistons? Get 12psi w/o a "bandaid" intake charge temp cooler w/ no problem as the pistons can deal w/ the heat.
 

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we can make you talk
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Here's a quick link to My setup

As for cost, I bought the headers, pistons, and various Stage 2 part brand new. The money adds up quickly. However, you can save a few bucks here and there if watch the For Sale forum very closely. I got my Quaife LSD for $200 and haven't had any problems with it. I also got my SDS at a good price. The downside is that the seller of the SDS was a jerk and has taken 6 months to get me all of my parts.

BTW, Pharm, he asked what was needed, not whether or not you think the RIPP kit is shit. We've seen your opinion in NUMEROUS threads, please stay on topic. :noplease:
 

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Get off my nuts, I didn't say the kit was shit. I spoke from the standpoint of a 5 year veteran of this platform and also an installer. The clusterfuck comment is a quote from Ross himself in regards to stage 3.

Please tell me where anything I said is opinion vs. fact. I've been trying to be very bias neutral as of late, so don't go putting words in my mouth. I was absolutely on topic in regards to everything that was being discussed here.

Thank you, have a nice day, move a long and get over me and my opinion of the kit that sits on your car and the company that made it as it was never even expressed in this thread.
 

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PharmEcis said:
Cooling is necessary when running ANY kind of boost period. Why do you think factory turbo charged cars come w/ a stock intercooler irregardless of how efficient it is?
Irregardless isnt a word :fawk:

Back to topic, Kiwi, do a search and you will find all the info you will need.
 

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shit, just get pistons! if you buy the stage 2 kit RIPP just might screw you over. prepare yourself for the shit RIPP gets themselves into and just get this

* TUNER PACKAGE!!! (i could have saved thousands if i just did this)

* Greddy Emanage (unless theres something better)

* intercooler and piping (i recommend going with a vortech aftercooler. move the battery and place it there)

* set of injectors (prolly 440cc)

* Forged Pistons (i went with 8.5:1 compression, i want massive reliability)

* maybe forged rods

* Boost, EGT, Oil Pressure Gauges

* knock amp (if possible)
 

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WEASELFURY said:
shit, just get pistons! if you buy the stage 2 kit RIPP just might screw you over. prepare yourself for the shit RIPP gets themselves into and just get this

* TUNER PACKAGE!!! (i could have saved thousands if i just did this)

* Greddy Emanage (unless theres something better)

* intercooler and piping (i recommend going with a vortech aftercooler. move the battery and place it there)

* set of injectors (prolly 440cc)

* Forged Pistons (i went with 8.5:1 compression, i want massive reliability)

* maybe forged rods

* Boost, EGT, Oil Pressure Gauges

* knock amp (if possible)
with just a stage 2 forged rods aren't neccessary. the stock rods are good so unless he is going for 500+ i dont think he'll need new rods
 

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finally BOOSTED
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i just did them for safety... did i miss anything else that was necessary bro?
 

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Turbo Buick > you
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Hey buddy, glad to see another member getting supercharged!!! :twothumb:

My suggestions as per my experiences.....

1. Make sure your motor is in tip top shape. Get a new cap and rotor, timing belt, new colder spark plugs for boost, etc.

2. Run a compression test. Make sure you are pretty much balanced across the board.

3. Ask yourself "Has my car ever ran like shit????". If it has, most likely stage 2 may hurt your motor.

Now with all that said, i can honestly say that stage 2 can run and IS running on the stock motor on a number of cars out there. As long as the motor is fine before hand, you should be fine.

One thing i recommend is getting a Wideband O2 Sensor to monitor your A/F ratio. If your tune happens to be off, you can catch it by noticing your A/F ratio getting too lean up top (which often happens).

I dont know if you plan on installing it yourself or not. If so, make sure you double and triple check everything. You can never be too sure.

As for a parts list, you'll need a new set of headers to extract all that heat out of your motor better. Our motors HATE heat, so this is a must. Get the gauges you need and mount them prior to installation to save time on the initial install.

Not sure if you have an automatic trans or a manual trans. If you have a manual trans, you'll need to upgrade your clutch. Hell, i have an already built 5spd trans that i can sell to you that comes with an LSD, cyro treated gears, and a spec stage 3 clutch kit.

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions or concerns :yesway:
 
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