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My luvly manly lump!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hehehh :) I've finlly figured things out. There are so many color-coded layouts out there, and so much confusion about which wires are which. But I've finally done it... no post-cat o2's... and no SES!
  • Dual-out oxygen sensor sim
  • oxygen sensor heater resistor-sim
So yes, it can be done. And you don't need to have the sensors hanging somewhere to get rid of the SES. I'll post in how-to about details.
 

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My luvly manly lump!
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
And here we go! :)

http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?p=641588

That's as comprehensive as I could possibly remember. The diagrams I made are in reference to the harness-side wiring, since I don't have the factory sensors anymore. Chase2000GT already has a how-to on garage for this :) The 2 black wires' functions can be determined through the continuity/ohm test I mentioned in my how-to ;) Also, the harness diagram is in reference to 12v. How-to says it all.

Sorry about the zip files ppl... I don't have a pic host at the moment. Soon, hopefully :)
 

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Pylon Assassin
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246 Posts
Cool, thanks for the info.

One question, whats wrong with just leaving the O2 sensor in and use a O2 sim? The o2 sensor doenst have to be hanging somewhere.
 

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My luvly manly lump!
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No... nothing wrong with it at all :) Just that in my case, I didn't have the sensors anymore. Sold/misplaced/I_dunno_what_the_hell_they_did_with-them...

And you're right. They don't need to be hanging either, i.e. they can be in the pipes, where the heaters can't do any damage to any plastic components in the engine bay. I'm just not sure if there are any positives to not having these sensors, i.e. less disruption of exhaust flow, or better flow.

I know for sure that with the amount of backfiring I'm having right now, 1) I'll need to have the car re-tuned for fuel, and 2) I won't mess any post-turbo o2 sensors up! :p
 

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TheFranchise said:
i can tell you for sure that the stock ECU tunes from the rear O2s. this is unlike most older setups that only used them for cat efficiency

I thought this to be true. That is why RIPP says you need the rear O2's so that the BB/GB can do its job and control the tuning.
 

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Premium Member
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So for an SDS\NA car, this is not a good idea. For a turbo it would work because of a stand alone like E-manage or something?
 

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My luvly manly lump!
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hmmm... never thought about this :) I figured as much about the rear o2s having A LOT to do with tuning. Take note that despite the fact that I've got an eManage, I was still running rich. BEYOND pig rich, in fact, that I could smell the fuel so much at open throttle inside the cabin with windows and sunroof shut, and the backfiring was just horribly loud! Drank gas like it was drunken new year's eve.

However, I also don't know to what extent tuning on an SDS entails. All I can say is that despite the fact that I need to have the car re-tuned PROPERLY this time, idle is MUCH more stable than it was two days ago! And if the car tuned from the rear o2s as much, or more, than the pre-cat o2's... then why am I not getting a light if I'm running this rich and backfiring? ;)
 

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Isn't the Ripp setup designed to work with the stock computer? So not running that setup would mean being able to change things like doing away with the rear 02 sensors that are there to check the cat. The way I understand it that is all they are for, and the ecu would use the information to tune for the best before and after cat range. Not having a cat= not needed.
 

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My luvly manly lump!
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I dunno tommy :) I'm just glad I don't have as difficult a time mixing the 6-puck as much as I did before the mod :p

I'm not a RIPP guy. I guess their engine management is really just as stringent as they claim the ECU is... and leaves little room for modification/change/flexibility as us eManage/turbo guys...
 

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Did i miss something or is this a horrible idea. If we can set the rear 02's up behind the main cat and not throw codes why in the world would you want to remove them? because you removed all the cats? Is this a race-only vehicle? Do you think that not having any cats is really doing that much for you?

I realy don't get it... :scratch:
 

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My luvly manly lump!
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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Funny. Typical guys. Quit making assumptions and open-ended conclusions and stick with the facts. I made the post because I MADE IT WORK, not because I'm telling you to do so. I'm not even advocating the outright removal of the post-cat sensors if you have them, or if you intend on keeping them.

My particular situation called for a way to remove the SES light for three codes, P1056, P0141, and P0136... all associated with the fact that I didn't have my rear o2 sensors anymore. Some people apparently have found some practical use of this how-to for their particular situations. And as for me, I find that the most helpful latent benefit of this HOW-TO... take note, not a MUST-DO, is consolidating information about o2 sensor harness wiring... since there is a lot of confusion revolving around which wire is which and how to find this wire or that in o2 sim wiring. That alongside the fact that removal of the sensors, if the individual chooses to do so, is possible without throwing codes.

Thanks for the coy attempt at flaming. Have a great holidays. :)
 

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To tell you the truth this would be the same as adding sims to take the ses light out (with the sim its not working anyway), just going a step further. As for removing the cats completely, yes it does help a turbo setup (less backpressure the better), as far as emissions, it would not pass anyway.
 

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Slippercream said:
Funny. Typical guys. Quit making assumptions and open-ended conclusions and stick with the facts. I made the post because I MADE IT WORK, not because I'm telling you to do so. I'm not even advocating the outright removal of the post-cat sensors if you have them, or if you intend on keeping them.

My particular situation called for a way to remove the SES light for three codes, P1056, P0141, and P0136... all associated with the fact that I didn't have my rear o2 sensors anymore. Some people apparently have found some practical use of this how-to for their particular situations. And as for me, I find that the most helpful latent benefit of this HOW-TO... take note, not a MUST-DO, is consolidating information about o2 sensor harness wiring... since there is a lot of confusion revolving around which wire is which and how to find this wire or that in o2 sim wiring. That alongside the fact that removal of the sensors, if the individual chooses to do so, is possible without throwing codes.

Thanks for the coy attempt at flaming. Have a great holidays. :)
wow!! I don't know you and my post wasn't even an attempt at flaming you. As my post indicates I'm confused as to why you were doing this. If you feel this is a how-to post, perhaps you should post it in the how-to section. I'll leave my post at that despite the fact that it urks me that you are so upset over asking a few questions that i asked.
 

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My luvly manly lump!
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
oh :)

Well... if you really didn't mean anything negative by that post, I apologize for that comment. I'm tired, and the holidays weren't exactly the kind of "happy holidays" it was supposed to be. My bad... didn't mean to insult you :)

As for your questions, I assume most of them have been answered. And no, this is not a race-only vehicle. And yes, I have posted a how-to in garage as well.

Good luck finding another source for your turbo kit.
 
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