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Discussion Starter #1
The car is a 2002 Stratus. It originally came with the 3.0l v6. For those of you who aren't familiar with my set up prior to the 6G75 swap, I had the Ripp SDS on my car that was tuned with a standalone Haltech E8.

I'm going to post about how the swap progressed later in this thread. I have the engine installed already. (Sorry for the crappy iPhone pic, my lens is all scratched up)



I chose a non-mivec 75 because I was going to use my distributor setup that I had with my 72. The plan was to eventually use the COP system that the engine came with, after I had worked out the bugs involved with the swap. The stock distributor was damaged during install, but at the time I didn't think much of it, because the Haltech could run the COP system. I haven't been able to fire the engine. I don't have spark. My tuner and I wired the 72 to the Haltech. It ran perfectly for 30,000 miles which then I decided to swap in the 75.

The Haltech E8 has 4 ignition outputs. To run the v6, the engine must be wired to run wasted spark. Each coil has 3 wires, a 12v wire, ground and signal. The 3 sets of coils each have their own ignition output from the E8, which is then connected to the haltech Ignitor. From the ignitor, the coil negatives are attached to each set of coils. The 3rd wire on each coil is connected to 12v switched power.

The part where I believe something isn't connected right is from the Haltech to the crank sensor. The original setup had one ignition output wired to the distributor and the Home Cable from the E8 was wired for a reluctor sensor that tapped into the ecu.

Obviously since the distributor is no longer on the car, the wiring has to be updated. According to the Haltech manual, 3-wire crank sensors are usually Hall Effect sensors and the 72 sensor is 3 wires. With that being the case I tapped into the 12v, signal and ground wires of the crank sensor. I have an RPM signal but still no spark.

I'm very good at following a wire diagram and I have a pretty good idea of how the Haltech operates, but maybe someone more experienced with the electronic side of this swap can see where I'm obviously messing something up?

My tuner is trying to find the original diagram he made up when the Haltech was installed, that should shed some light on the problem, but in the mean time I figured it couldn't hurt to put some club3g minds together.
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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Impressive! Can't help with the spark issue but wishing you success. Nice to see someone shoehorn that much "love" into a 3G engine bay.

Did you paint the SDS shaft or just a dark pic? Forgive my ignorance but please tell what the welded box is between the v2 and the TB. Is it an RPW product?

Hope you get some better pics up. Again, good job. Almost there!
 

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REDLINE ALL GEARS
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Impressive! Can't help with the spark issue but wishing you success. Nice to see someone shoehorn that much "love" into a 3G engine bay.

Did you paint the SDS shaft or just a dark pic? Forgive my ignorance but please tell what the welded box is between the v2 and the TB. Is it an RPW product?

Hope you get some better pics up. Again, good job. Almost there!
that box is a water to air intercooler
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm currently working through a few different ways to set up my ignition system in the event my initial attempt still doesn't work.

Until I get that figured out, I'll post what I've already done on the install.



This is the engine when I first got it. It was pretty stripped and had some damage, some of which can be seen in the pic. I chose this engine because it had very low miles and because I was told it was "complete" which wasn't the case.



I had most of the engine apart when the new motor arrived which made it really easy to pull the rest out.



My little helper couldn't miss this photo-op.



Flex plate to be swapped to the 75.



In this pic, a lot of my prep work can be seen. The 74 components that I bought for the swap were in pretty rough shape. Tons of grease buildup had to be cleaned, like the 74's water jacket, oil pan, alt bracket, and PS components.

I painted the front valve cover in this pic black, along with the block. The SDS idler pulley bolts up just fine as does the 72 AC bracket.



I figured while I had everything apart that I would grind a bit of the lower intake down to gasket match. I also test fit and started to polish the new 3000gt fuel rails I'll be using.



Mounted the injectors with the ported lower intake and polished rails. I also installed the 3SX fuel rail adapter. I have to say that at the time I put this all together it seemed to fit together perfectly and I thought it looked great. The first time I keyed on the car and the fuel pump primed fuel shot right out of the fittings. I'll post my fix later ;)



Finally got the engine in the car. It was actually pretty easy to drop in. A second set of hands was a big help positioning it just right. Getting the passenger side mount was the hardest part to line up just right.



The starter solenoid copper stud broke as I was tightening the nut. I tried to find a shop that could repair or replace the stud, but couldn't find anyone that would do that. A new starter solenoid cost almost as much as a brand new starter, so I just bought a new starter.



I was so excited to get this thing all buttoned up, I test fitted the 74 intake and made sure the intercooler set up lined up the same way as on the 72.



Since I have the SDS on my car I had to reinstall the oil return fitting on the 74 oil pan I swapped on for additional header clearance. I also had to come up with a new way to run my oil feed line since the oil filter is located in a different spot then on the 72. This set up I came up with is much better then what I did on the 72 SDS install. This is much cleaner and retains the stock oil pressure sensor, autometer oil pressure sensor and the feed line to the supercharger. After I took that picture, about a week later, I decided that I would upgrade to aeroquip fittings with SS braided lines.



The next step was to test fit the SDS driveshaft. Everything fit find except that the 74 alt. bracket needed to be modified for the SDS to have enough room to fit.



Things are getting close to being done when new paint goes on the SDS parts.



Test fit of SDS. Everything lines up!





I finally got around to buying the fitting for the new oil return and feed lines.



The fuel rails leak finally got fixed using (2) 90 degree fittings and some braided line. I thought about using straight fittings, but I didn't like the big loop of line that was needed. My tuner suggested the 90's would make the bend a bit easier to deal with. Neither of us realized that the fittings are quite long and they basically overlapped when facing each other. So we pointed the fittings up and still at an angle to make sure the braided line wouldn't kink. Once that was all set, the fuel pump was primed again and this time there were't any leaks.

Once the fuel leak was fixed my tuner came over and we started to set up the Haltech to start the car. At first we didn't realize that the COP system didn't have built-in ignitors, so I had to get a 3-channel Haltech ignitor.



That's the mess I made of my nice neat coil harness that I had to cut up to connect the ignitor to the coils and Haltech.



This is my car before the engine swap.

The major upgrades include:

- ITP built transmission with Wavetrac LSD and 3000 stall converter.
- Vortech V2 SI trim supercharger.
- Water/Air intercooler with 3 gallon coolant tank.
- Rebuilt/Re-engineered SDS drive shaft.
- Haltech E8 Standalone.
- Wilwood 6-piston BBK.
- Retrofitted HID headlights.
- Ripp headers.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Impressive! Can't help with the spark issue but wishing you success. Nice to see someone shoehorn that much "love" into a 3G engine bay.

Did you paint the SDS shaft or just a dark pic? Forgive my ignorance but please tell what the welded box is between the v2 and the TB. Is it an RPW product?

Hope you get some better pics up. Again, good job. Almost there!
Thanks! It's been a lot of work, but it's been worth it. I painted the SDS shaft. Thinking back to when Ripp offered the carbon fiber SDS cover I should have bought one. That wouldn't scratch as much as this paint does.

That's the water/air intercooler. It's one of the best mods I've done. I got mine at frozenboost.com.

I didn't realize until I uploaded all of the install pics from my phone, how terrible they were. My iphone's camera lens is really scratched up. I'll try to get some better pics soon.


so excited to see this. Especially on your v2 set up. Now i would like to see some numbers
Me too! I think a reworking of the ignition system is going to be the only way this car is going to start so tuning and dyno numbers can be seen.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What cam sensor are you using? You will need the 3.8L Montero cam reluctor, cam sensor, and cam sensor housing to run COP
The 3.8 I got was from a Galant. It did come with a cam sensor. How does the cam sensor wire into the COP system? I always thought that the cam sensor help control the fuel side of the equation? I could be wrong.
 

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Resident Auto Maniac
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I've got a non-Mivec 6g75 installed in my 1998 Avenger. I used a Megasquirt II ECU. I also wanted to utilize the factory C.O.P system. After weeks and months of problems (and frying 2 of the coils) I went with a Ford EDIS system using a MegaSquirt | Engine Management System | Electronic Fuel Injection - DIYAutoTune.com 36-1 toothed wheel and crank position sensor. Fired right up and scared the shizz outta me actually... wasn't expecting it to run at the time.

Anyway. I don't know if your Stand alone can run EDIS but it is a cheap and effective means of ignition. Its wasted spark also- and a ridiculously simple install.

Also, based on your install- you'll have to mount the EDIS coil in a different place than me obviously.

As far as 6g7X engines are concerned also there aren't many of us with stand-alone running cars. I'll help where I can.







 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've got a non-Mivec 6g75 installed in my 1998 Avenger. I used a Megasquirt II ECU. I also wanted to utilize the factory C.O.P system. After weeks and months of problems (and frying 2 of the coils) I went with a Ford EDIS system using a MegaSquirt | Engine Management System | Electronic Fuel Injection - DIYAutoTune.com 36-1 toothed wheel and crank position sensor. Fired right up and scared the shizz outta me actually... wasn't expecting it to run at the time.

Anyway. I don't know if your Stand alone can run EDIS but it is a cheap and effective means of ignition. Its wasted spark also- and a ridiculously simple install.

Also, based on your install- you'll have to mount the EDIS coil in a different place than me obviously.

As far as 6g7X engines are concerned also there aren't many of us with stand-alone running cars. I'll help where I can.
That's some great info! I know Haltech suggests GM coils, but it should be able to run that system as well.

So you don't have a distributor installed on your set up?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If you want to keep the distributor then just upgrade to an MSD coil.
I don't want to keep the distributor. I'm trying to understand how these engines are controlling the spark. It seems like the 75 needs both the crank and cam sensor signals to provide spark. It seems like the 72 uses the crank and distributor. I'm thinking of using a set up like skyy406 has suggested, but my tuner seems to think there might be a crossed connection somewhere.
 

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I don't want to keep the distributor. I'm trying to understand how these engines are controlling the spark. It seems like the 75 needs both the crank and cam sensor signals to provide spark. It seems like the 72 uses the crank and distributor. I'm thinking of using a set up like skyy406 has suggested, but my tuner seems to think there might be a crossed connection somewhere.
How is the cam sensor wire?
For the coils, you need a 12V+, Ground, and Ground Signal from the ECU to fire them.
 

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There is a cam position sensor inside the distributor, it works the same way as the COP. Both use crank and cam angle references, what makes them different is the trigger wheel for the cam.
 

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Resident Auto Maniac
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That's some great info! I know Haltech suggests GM coils, but it should be able to run that system as well.

So you don't have a distributor installed on your set up?
Nope no dizzy. The Megasquirt doesn't require one if you utilize a Ford EDIS system.

You can get all the components fairly cheaply at www.boostengineering.com they sell the entire EDIS kit.

Let me know if you have any other questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I hope you using the both 3.8L crank AND cam sensors/reluctors together. Changing either one will result in crank/no start.
Well, I'm not using the cam sensor yet. I've been thinking about this though. I have the 72 crank sensor/reluctor on now. I'm really wishing I would have just kept the 75 sensor reluctor on instead.
 
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