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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone, eclipse novice here, I have a terrible shake in my steering wheel when I brake, typically at any speed above 30mph. I bought my 2000 gt with 98k miles on it and have put almost 7k miles on it since june. I am not sure if the suspension or brakes had any recent work, (besides brake lines). I plan on replacing the rotors soon with these as there is visible wear on them.

2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse 3.0L V6 Power Stop OEK Brake Kits - Best Price OE Powerstop Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit

I would be willing to cough up some more cash but Im not sure if drilled/slotted will give me any noticeable change. Will the rear brakes need to be adjusted/replaced if the front ones are?

As for my suspension....I feel every nook and cranny and bump in the road. The front shocks probably haven't been touched ever.... I know kyb gr-2's are recommended highly here and I have found them at a reasonable price

KYB GR-2 Shocks and Struts, KYB Shock Absorbers, KYB Shocks

Do I NEED to replace anything in the rear or is that just personal preference?

Thanks for the help.

fulleclipse17
 

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Is there any sound accompanied with the vibration? When there is shake and sound over 30mph it's commonly related to the hubs. But if the rotors are old, they're cheap enough to replace anyways to test that first. New (good) hubs are like 90$ each. I've also heard (but offer no authority, I'm pretty newbie myself!) that drilled AND slotted rotors have bad longevity, that just one is preferable.

If the fronts are going, the rears are probably not too far behind, if you can afford to replace all four... and it can be hard to tell which shock is giving you trouble. Also, you should replace any rubber components in the suspension. Old rubber can increase the harshness of the ride, and they're cheap enough you may as well replace them if you spent the time getting the suspension apart.

Also, obligatory comment that you should replace the suspension with lowering springs and KYB AGX (Actually Koni sports) for lowering purposes. But really, if you are happy with your ride height as is, the stock springs are smoother.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the response Katsu. The noise is just a typical feedback rumble from vibration. No squeaking or squealing. I still haven't settled on a good set of rotors

I have also been looking at these

EBC® - Mitsubishi Eclipse 2000 Stage 1 / Stage 20 Street Brake Kit

I decided to buy replacement shocks and struts all around. Hopefully I didn't get jacked buying this kit :sweat:

http://www.carparts.com/details/Mitsubishi/Eclipse/Replacement/Shock_and_Strut_Kit/2000/GT/6_Cyl_3-dot-0L/022514-03-PLK.html

if anyone has experience with ordering this kit from carparts.com feel free to chime in with pros and cons! Thanks
 

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Vibration while driving = wheels balancing is off, or a wheel is bent. Get them balanced.

Vibration while braking = warped rotors. Replace rotors to call it a day. Stay away from drilled/slotted unless you're actually track racing the car. Oem is fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Okay,

I thought the rotors must be off since I had my wheels balanced a few months back, these Northern New York winters are not friendly to vehicles.

I found some centric parts smooth rotors on amazon, they seem to be well liked. Going to order them today!

...unless someone tells me otherwise!
 

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Look around for brake pad bed-in procedures and (in a safe place) try that process out. The rotors may not literally be warped, they may just be uneven levels of friction on the surface (the way the pad material has deposited on it for some reason). It's free to try and really does work for some people, depending on what problem they are actually having (hard to tell the difference). If that doesn't work, then buy rotors.

You could do it at any time, but definitely if you replace the rotors be sure that all mating surfaces are clean, if there's junk in there anywhere things will not go together flat and you will feel this as a shake.

Maybe also check your wheels, if they are aftermarket then be sure the bore is the right size or that you are using the correct hubcentric adapter rings.

Skip drilled / slotted, it's primarily an appearance thing and for normal driving not actually helping.

No other suspension pieces have to be replaced. Many are suggested but none have to if your'e on a budget. Although you can expect the anti-roll bar endlinks to get busted during disassembly, so be prepared with a buddy or a bicycle to get you to a parts store if / when you end up needing something during the job. You can review other posts around here to see what else might be recommended, it's been covered many times.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the response Tracer Bullet. I hadn't even considered trying the brake pad bed-in procedure, will give it a go before my rotors come in the mail Friday.

Luckily I have multiple vehicles or I would be hopping onto the old Raleigh. My wheels aren't aftermarket, but I will keep that in mind when I purchase them in the future.



Thanks for the input everyone.
 
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