[AngryAzn]

Brake Fluid Comparison

RGS610: Dot3 + Dot 4
Boiling Point: 610F
Wet Boiling: 421F
Pro: Very high boiling point, Used by many Pro and Amat. teams including F1.
Con: Very Expensive.
Cost: $19 for 500ml (2 required for change) http://www.bavauto.com

Motul RBF 600: Dot 3 + Dot 4
Boiling Point: 593F
Wet Boiling: 420F
Pro: Very high boiling and wet boiling
Con: Expensive, frequent bleeding required
Cost: $10 for 1/2 Litre: http://www.roadraceengineering.com

Super ATE Blue + Amber: Dot 3 + Dot 4
Boiling Point: 536F
Wet Boiling: 396F
Pro: Inexpensive, infrequent bleeding required, comes in 2 colors to make bleeding easier.
Con: Slightly less effective then Motul RBF
Cost: $10 for 1 Litre: http://www.turnermotorsports.com

Valvoline SynthPower High Performance Brake Fluid
Boiling Point: 503F
Wet Boiling: 343F
Pro: Very cheap, great for preflushing/purging old brake fluid before using more expensive stuff.
Con: Not quite as high as the others
Cost: $4 founds at local Autozone.

(This isn't a complete list, only brake fluids that is readily available that I have used and deemed: best bang for the buck and easy to find)

 

[AngryAzn]

For those of you looking for more information on RGS610 here is a good link:

http://www.renugroupllc.com/rgs610/product_page.htm

 

[rwc]

why does motul rbf600 require frequent bleeding? im about to put some of this in my car to replace the fluid that ive had in there for over 2 years. if it requires "frequent bleeding" ill use something with a longer life.. i want something i can put in, perform well, and forget about it for a loong time.

 

[Clipse3GT]

why does motul rbf600 require frequent bleeding? im about to put some of this in my car to replace the fluid that ive had in there for over 2 years. if it requires "frequent bleeding" ill use something with a longer life.. i want something i can put in, perform well, and forget about it for a loong time.

Valvoline Syn, is great. :yesway: Nothing else is need for street.

 

[AngryAzn]

why does motul rbf600 require frequent bleeding? im about to put some of this in my car to replace the fluid that ive had in there for over 2 years. if it requires "frequent bleeding" ill use something with a longer life.. i want something i can put in, perform well, and forget about it for a loong time.

Whichever fluid you use pay attention to the wet boiling point. That's the temp you want to be as high as possible. Reason being, brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs water vapor from the atmosphere. When brake fluid reaches its wet boiling point any water in the fluid turns to steam. This can cause fluid vaporization or 'vapor lock' and unlike fluids, vapors are highly compressible. Not a good thing in a hydraulic system like brakes. In addition, when the vapor cools it condenses forming water, adding even more water to the fluid. Water of course boils at 212 degrees Fahrenheit and brake fluid can get much hotter than that. The Dry Boiling Point is the temperature at which a brake fluid will boil in its virgin non-contaminated state.

Word of caution: many DOT4 fluids, such as Motul RBF 600, etc. are more hygroscopic than a DOT3 fluid and therefore should be changed more often. Their higher wet boiling points make them well suited to cars used on the track but their affinity for water is greater over the long term.

Now Motul is a kickass brake fluid. I've used it when I go on track days, but after NY track months of May - June, I swap bleed them for fresh stuff before the next wave of track days Aug - Oct. I might also add, it's not uncommon to see high HP cars IE: Corvette Z06, Vipers, Porsche's etc, to bleed out old fluids after a single race day.

Rest of the year, and in my street car, I use Super ATE Blue or Gold because it absorbs moisture very very slowly. Hope this answers your question

 

[eclipse03gts]

So, if reading this correctly, the higher the wet boiling, the LESS likely for it to vaporize...meaning longer periods of time between bleeds. So Motul is very high on the list therefore it shouldnt need bled often right? also, how much fluid is required for a complete flush...doesnt say in owners manual.

 

[Phil]

The Brake Bible

Lots of great info available about brakes here.

 

[JUMA]

In every brake pad there is the friction material which is held together with some sort of resin. Once this lot starts to get too hot, the resin holding the pad material together starts to vapourise, forming a gas.

Some sources say that this no longer exists by the way of the new pad design and material used.
If that was true it would leave the drilled rotors with less advantages, maybe minimal weight savings.

 

[Phil]

The only real advantage to cross-drilled rotors is vastly improved wet braking over plain rotors. As far as weight savings go, here's an example: Baer cross-drilled rotors have A LOT of holes (rotor on right).

All of those holes equate to only a quarter-pound of weight savings..no big deal.

Their disadvantages far outnumber their advantages. Massively decreased rotor surface area, which makes for a very noticeable difference in braking distances and pedal feel, vastly reduced pad life, and decreased rotor integrity to name a few.

As far as the way pads are designed and made, I have to say that I don't know anything about that process...

 

[Bitter]

ford dot3 heavy duty is a good fluid for a weekend racer. its very cheap and has a high boiling point compared to other dot3 fluids.

http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3brakefluid.html

Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 is VERY inexpensive and is popular among racers because of its excellent dry boiling point. It absorbs moisture quickly, but the racers don't care since they change their fluid frequently. Comes in metal cans so it may be stored. I would not use this in my Impala for the street.

 

[AngryAzn]

So, if reading this correctly, the higher the wet boiling, the LESS likely for it to vaporize...meaning longer periods of time between bleeds. So Motul is very high on the list therefore it shouldnt need bled often right? also, how much fluid is required for a complete flush...doesnt say in owners manual.

No because Motul like I said is Dot 4 and absorbs water much more quickly compared to ATE which is Dot 3.

 

[cfeyhris]

dot-5 is at advance auto if anyone is intrested.. 7.59$

 

[Bitter]

dot-5 is at advance auto if anyone is intrested.. 7.59$

and DOT5 will not work in the 3G, Galant, Evo, or ANY car made for DOT 3/4/5.1 or any ethylene or glycol based brake fluid since silicone fluids do not mix with water. silicone fluids are pretty much bad for street use, you WANT your brake fluid to absorb water. think about that, you'll realize why its a good thing.

 

[Blade970]

Way to rez a 2 year old thread with a fail....
I'd make a comment about how stupid 2008's are but....








<--------------:loser:

 

[dknight3]

can you get super ate blue at autozone? or you have to order it?
how many liters do you need?

 

[Bitter]

can you get super ate blue at autozone? or you have to order it?
how many liters do you need?

call and ask, but they probably wont have a clue what you're talking about. i think a race oriented shop may carry it, but its probably online order only. 4 pints should be plenty to flush your system thoroughly. 4 pints is just under 2 liters, so get 3 and have another liter handy to use for when you bleed brakes after doing pads.

 

[ICEMAN99TURBO]

Not 100% sure if this is the correct place or not, but I am going to do a full flush and want to get the Valvoline SynthPower fluid; anyone have a small idea on how much I will need?

 

[Bitter]

haha back from the dead, castrol seems to have reformulate the LMA for a higher dry boiling point from 446 (in the article I linked) to 509. wet remains the same. fact still stands that although its cheaper the ATE Type 200 (and more readily available) it still has lower wet and dry boiling points. the LMA is fine for street and light track, but if you're heavy on your brakes you should probably cough up the couple extra dollars for the ATE.

 

[schoolisbad1]

I didn't see the Valvoline SynthPower at kraigen and autozone the other day. Any other suggestions? I'll call around. Whenever I end up getting fluid, I was going to have a shop do a full flush. Can I bring the fluid to a place like Midas? or should I go to a smaller shop?

 

[MitsubishiOwn]

No because Motul like I said is Dot 4 and absorbs water much more quickly compared to ATE which is Dot 3.

I just looked on the link you gave I don't know if it was a typo on your part or the changed it. But on the bottle it says ATE Super Blue is Dot3. And just curious how often would i have to put new brake fluid in my car? I plan on putting in steel braided brake lines too I don't know if that will matter my guess is not